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Fire pot dimensions for coal forge

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Just to show you what I use. It's a steel plate with holes drilled in it. I dont think it would be good to tack weld to your cast fire pot but I tack weld it to my brake rotor fire pot. When it wears out I can simply cut the 4 tack welds and replace it. It could easily (depending on your skills) be fabricated to fit in the hole with a lip holding it in place. 20210223_225630.thumb.jpg.326286c9c580d5f0e3e7eee123b7a740.jpg

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Sorry I have been remiss in visiting you, and for that mater keeping up with this thread. Dad had had a heart attack about 3 months ago fallowed buy a stroke a month later. Been a bit hectic around here sense. 
as mentioned the gilet gray was to high, an inch or two would be sufficient and the lip underneath as you now know catches the slag so you can’t fish it out.    

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Charles, I'm sorry to hear about your Dad. My own father had multiple issues with heart attacks and strokes, so it is with great sympathy that I wish you and him the very best.

2 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

gilet gray

"bullet grate"?

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6 hours ago, JHCC said:

think anvil meant the CF clinker breaker

Thanks,JHCC, that's what I meant. I can't put their addy down. Check Centaur Forge.

I'm not a fan of a metal grate. My first home built forge used one. I made the grate out of 1/4" welding rod for cast. When I learned of and used a clinker ball/breaker it made a major difference in my work. From keeping a clean fire without having to break it down to air distribution in the firepot. They are inexpensive and not that hard to add to a home built firepot.


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3 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

Ball (clinker) breaker...

You're torturing me on purpose aren't you, Charles.

I've been resisting this straight line since it came up originally. That is NOT easy for me on a good day but it keeps showing up! 

I'm going out and run the string trimmer so I don't get myself  moderated for cause. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Hope things get better for you Charles. Although I've never actually met you I count you as a friend and I hate to see friends having a hard time. If there's anything I can do just let me know. 


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On 7/14/2021 at 2:09 PM, JHCC said:

Not necessary for a side-blast

Back on topic. I think you are right. 

To be clear, I've never used a side blast, but I've burnt a lot of coke. No matter what direction the air comes from, it basically does 3 thing. It produces heat and heat rises. It makes clinker and ash, which falls down. Thats it. The heat heats our work and we must remove the clinker and ash. Then there's air and we need to remove the O2 from it to have a reducing fire. Simple stuff for simple blacksmiths.  ;)

I'm not a fan of a grate. With a grate, slots or holes, the air basically rises straight up. With a sideblast, the air moves horizontal broken up via coke. We have far less control of this, so less control over our fire,,, possibly. A clinker ball due to its shape channels the air twards the sloping sides, and up. This creates a fireball that burns from the outside in giving us a large controllable fireball.

A clinker ball also allows us to remove all clinker and ash without breaking down our fire in able to do this. A flick of the handle, and done. With a grate, to remove the fines and ash, you must break down your fire and shovel it out. A side draft has a depression below the air inlet that clinker and ash can fall into. Of course you can remove the clinker ring, but what about the rest? \

Just my opinion 





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16 minutes ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

with a well designed side blast you have as much control over the fire as with a side blast

As much control as a bottom-blast, but Yes.

In this context, control has more to do with the controlling the speed and volume of the air supply than anything else.

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