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I Forge Iron

Justin’s Smithing progression. [PIC heavy]


Justin Topp

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The horseshow hinges I have seen uses an entire shoe for each half and have the ends looped around and a hinge pin. Drift the nail holes for screws.

Early oils had a tendency to lose their volatiles and turn into "grease" over time and even the "grease" harden up into solid stuff.  Chipping out the crud as much as possible makes the solvent soak faster and more effective.  This was not as much a problem when you were constantly pushing fresh oil through; but give it 80 years out in a shed with no maintenance...

As mentioned: different plug for the C-O fill line.  A good cleaning and some of the "make a gasket" goop from an auto repair store should help the leaking on the seam.  No reason a counter weight needs to be round. You could just bend a bar in two "U" and slip it on and put a set screw in it.

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Here is a picture of a set of horseshoe hinges like Thomas was eluding to.  These were mounted on an outhouse next to one of our blacksmith members' smithy.  I also made a set like it for a small barn door.  I forged the sides with the pins to shape, leaving the shoes with the barrels slightly open to slip the pins sideways into the barrel then tapping the barrel closed.

 

Horseshoe hinge (Medium).JPG

100_2888 (Medium).JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah, a ledger or cripple screwed or nailed to the post directly under where the, uh, rafter is the wrong term but it'll do for now. 2 screws across every 6" over 4' will be enough shear strength to keep it up in most conditions. 

Congrats getting cover, I've worked out in the elements and it's not as much fun as having everything out of the weather. I LIKE shelter.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Probably but There’s several very long screws. We Will also be adding bracing to it soon. Ran out of time the day I got the picture though. I could stand on it no problem. Not that that means much but it’s not super weak. I’ll be raking the snow off it after each storm so snow weight isn’t an issue 

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Some carriage bolts work well in that application too. 

Looks great.. 

I ran into an interesting factor when I moved from Dark shop to outside and then back again. 

forge welding was very consistent outside because of the color of the metal. When I moved back into the dark shop I had to raise the temperature to get the same weldability. 

You have worked outside nearly the whole time..  Might be different once you do have shelter and shade. 

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The roof is great during about 11-4 but needs a “lip” around the edge going about a foot down for when it’s earlier and later to block sun. Maybe it’s the fact the sun is so low in the sky right now. In summer it would work better I think. 
 

also I tried making a cat and it is pretty bad haha. I’ll use a better sized angle iron next time and make some better tools 

52F75E96-8774-4C00-88EA-29188E834919.jpeg

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great saw.  I love to use electric hacksaws.. Blades last a very long time and while not as fast as a bandsaw cutoff machine you can just set it and forget it. 

that looks like a newer machine.. 

Some of the old ones have auto stop, auto raise.. So at the end of the cut the head gets moved back up ready for the next cut. 

Great machines if you ask me. I used a small one for nearly 30 years. 

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From my research this one should have all those features. Along with a coolant pump. I have a small iron mike power hacksaw that is great but lacks the power to cut much above 3/4” square steel. Great for pvc and metal pipes though. 
 

I think I’m gonna have to pick it up for 300$ they are asking. For the cool factor if nothing else 

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