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I Forge Iron

Chris Williams

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About Chris Williams

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  1. Thank you for clearing that up for me, Mike. Jewelers Toy Store, Contenti, and Otto Frie Jewlers each had acetylene tips and torches. Without knowing any better, I did not think it the slightest bit unusual. I was also considering soldering the valve threads as you suggest (but hadn't thought of aluminum, which I do prefer now that you mention it), but that is plan B. I first want to try to make a reducing bushing out of the original Mensi orifice. I am including two pictures below. Both show a 9/64" drill bit which is only slightly loose in the bore of the orifice piece (the orif
  2. Do these orifice sizes apply for each of the tip types -- acetylene, propane, and natural gas? I haven't found the orifice dimensions listed at several different vendors. I cannot think what else would be different about them if not for the orifice size. I would like to know if you know what type of thread the 3/16-40 Hoke tips are also. I have found options including UNS, ME, and UST (Universal Straight and Taper). Since the Hoke tips are gas fittings, the UST seems to make sense, but it is specific to model builders and may be too obscure to be in the Hoke Product. Is it perhaps somet
  3. I don't have the patience to type out a full summary of the paper on my phone, but it is only 5 pages and well within the understanding of anyone that wants to read it (perhaps with limited searching for jargon definitions). The paper does not say that the material with higher volume % Martensite is softer than the material with lower volume % Martensite, but rather that the material with lower volume % Martensite has higher wear resistance. More on that in a moment, as the conclusion should be qualified. On what may be causing the confusion on Martensite and material hardness -- T
  4. ...on dry land, let alone swampy land or water, where their advantages are greater! They can also climb chain link and some other fences, as well as some trees (usually when they have low branches or a pronounced lean). It pays to be aware of your surroundings when you are out and about in their territory. I've even seen one alligator crossing the road (from the beach side of the road, and towards a marsh) where the tail and head both extended a few feet beyond the lane it was currently in. This wasn't the biggest that I've come across, but it was leaving the beach (Canaveral Nation
  5. What does the seller say about tuning it? I'm not a burner expert in any way, shape or form, but I do notice that your burner does not match the published design (see link). That does not mean that it won't work (great, poorly, or somewhere in the middle), but the published design is a place for you to start diagnosing what the difference(s) is(are) and perhaps what tuning or changes that you need to make. That said, just because it looks like a Frosty T burner, doesn't mean it IS a Frosty T burner. Lots of people have bought look alikes, and some are so far from the design and poorly fun
  6. Yes, sometimes the economics of a product requires specific scrap feedstock. That is just a risk inherent in the product type. I'm still on the lookout for a searchable scrap yard near me. There is a promising-looking complex nearby that I've never seen anyone at. It looks almost like a family house and light industry with adjacent large resource pile.
  7. Sell all of the LHDDs for 4Qls from the start. Always consider replacement costs when selling a product. Of course, for a product, you need to be sure of the material quality and presence/lack of defects before you use scrap or other alternatively-sourced material.
  8. I'm glad you pointed out the "tested and current" part. I had a Kiddie brand CO and propane alarm that wouldn't detect propane brand new and with a new battery. Never trust your life or health to something that you haven't verified.
  9. Looks nice. What do you use under the leg when you move it? I know that the RTV-adhered plate won't be moving along with the vise. I thought it may be convenient to use more of the 1/8” steel plate with something on the floor side as an anti-skid.
  10. The straps will work great to hold down your anvil, so long as you keep them near room temperature. I wouldn't be able to manage that long enough to make it worth using straps to me. Don't breath the fumes when they burn. I recommend putting bolts through the foot holes, or screwing metal strapping down over the feet, or bolting bars over the feet, or bolting eyes down to the spool and using chain and turnbuckles to hold it to the eyes, or... anything else that is non-flammable.
  11. See my response to your IM for more details, but yes, I was happy with their service. Shipping was basically 3/4 of the way across the US, and was typical for freight shipping of that distance to a residence (i.e., add one day for them to transfer to a local company with a lift gate truck if you need one). This was all 7-8 years ago, so it may or may not still be the same.
  12. I see that the nuts aren't tightened down on the lower ends yet. Save yourself the effort now and put some thick washers between the nut and the wood. If it were mine, I would use a forstner or spade bit to make a flat spot for the washer to sit in. It's hard to keep the spade bit centered when there is a hole already, though--you could tap a wooden plug into the hole to give the center point something to bite into, if needed. The nut by itself will dig into the stump when you tighten it down. It may work great and seat into the wood, or it may eventually be the cause of a split as you tighten
  13. I used to pick up my 275 lb anvil. It hasn't been that many years, but I now I have more sense and fewer muscles. I use cribbing to lift it now. I use a 1" square bar in the hardy hole to tilt it and add the next piece. See the description in the linked thread.
  14. It's good to hear that they fixed the issue. I saw several design features that had been incrementally worked on (with improvements and otherwise) for years or even decades without adequate resolution. I was typically working with stuff that was one or more generation old, and the rotating compressor parts were typically titanium alloys. I don't know what is in the current generation engines. I haven't worked with aircraft in years now. I guess that keeping expensive parts might make sense if you have a cost+ contract or you make a percentage on the parts. I was always on the using
  15. Most engine bearings that I encountered were 52100. There were some other alloys used, but nothing particularly exotic. It doesn't have to be a big piece of shrapnel to ruin your day, either. I've seen crashes from smaller shrapnel (such as a single thrown turbine blade) cutting fuel lines as well as from shrapnel hitting a remaining good engine. Bigger chunks from a fragmenting disk have tremendous energy, and are even more destructive. Even though I know the odds of an event are miniscule, I don't like sitting in the plane of rotation of the turbines or compressors.
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