Chris Williams

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About Chris Williams

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  1. A correction: my wording earlier wasn't just unclear, but wrong. Toughness is mandatory, whereas hardness is nice to have only after the toughness requirement is met. You don't want something at all brittle.
  2. You want something hard (resists deformation) AND tough (resists cracking); you definitely don't want something very brittle. I don't have strong familiarity with oil field steels. If you can post those that you have available to you that you know to be at least hard OR tough, then we can help you down-select. Are you planning / able to / willing to heat treat, or do you need to use them in the HT condition you get them? This may sway the choice considerably.
  3. Just for posterity: I cannot edit, or I would delete my post above now that IDF&C has posted. I thought I had posted Jasen's thread (I could even see it), but it disappeared. I wasn't providing anything original.
  4. One of my favorite air control methods for a hair dryer, too:
  5. Good input all around by Marc. I would add that magnetic particle inspection can be quite a good test method for cracks and other flaws (including some near-surface defects that penetrant inspection won't find). The "too cheap" part comes in when they didn't demagnetize the anvil after inspection. It would have taken only minutes.
  6. You don't need a firepot. Look how high the pass-throughs are. You want the sweet spot of the fire to be there. Oh, and you can use clay, dirt, etc. from the nearest ditch or a hole in your yard to form your fire bowl. Bentonite clay kitty litter or oil dry would be cheap acceptable options for clay as well if you have nowhere to dig. No refractory needed.
  7. You'll get appreciable oxidation at forge temps of 2,300+ F (~1,250 C). It won't last forever unprotected*, **. *Note that how you control your forge atmosphere is going to significantly impact how long you get out of a Ti liner. A reducing atmosphere may provide a long life, whereas an oxidizing atmosphere would likely consume a 1mm liner relatively quickly at forge temperatures. **Now that I think about it, you will still have quite a lot of hot nitrogen in your forge no matter what. Without spending much time looking for data, I found an autoignition temperature of somewhere between ~1,472F-2,200F / 800C-1,200C (certain variables can impact this, and I didn't look at the study configurations) for titanium metal in nitrogen gas. In other words, your liner could burn in the nitrogen present in your forge without an additional ignition mechanism. I'm not saying that it necessarily WILL happen, but that it shouldn't be a surprise when it does.
  8. I would do this with it, or make the tools that Mr. Stephens sketched out.
  9. It may very well be the case that good quality bearings used in most applications are 52100, and it is certainly the most common alloy I saw in bearings by far.
  10. Not so. Many failed aircraft bearings (USA made only) that I analyzed were 52100, but there were other alloys. It depends on the application, cost, and presumably other factors.
  11. I haven't seen anything about that one. One of the other auction site anvils (also 66 lbs. and ~$2 lb) has been reviewed thoroughly here:
  12. Wouldn't a water cooled tuyere be even more of a heat sink? Yet, we know them to be effective options. I don't see it as a capability issue, but rather how long the tuyere (and additional consumable "shield" bit) lasts. I was thinking of the hub being more of a dam that kept most of the clay in place but still allowed the tuyere pipe to be fed in as it degrades. In practice, I would expect clay to be present on both sides of the hub to some degree. Maybe I do not see it the way you intended to use it.
  13. Maybe this is a silly question, but if you just turn the hub around, would it save you the cutting? Can you feed the tuyere in through the hub as the tuyere tip degrades?
  14. I fell into this trap years ago. What you want is a brake disk, and not necessarily a large one, to serve as your firepot. The tuyere (air input) attaches to the bottom of the center hole of the disk (or yes, even a drum if you have one that has appropriate dimensions). This is, of course, only valid if you want to make a bottom blast. For a side blast, you don't need a "firepot" as such. Using the large brake drum, I had a difficult time getting the sweet spot of the fire high enough to work anything except the end of a piece. For a very large forge, with more fuel, and more air, and larger stock, a big drum may be appropriate. I did once see a very small brake drum, presumably from a trailer, that I thought would work well for a forge appropriate for working small stock. It was in the middle of a construction zone on the interstate in Jacksonville FL with nowhere to pull over, so I was not able to grab it to try out. Now the conclusion -- despite all of my rambling above, suitability depends on what you need for your forge to accomplish when selecting your firepot.