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I Forge Iron

Chris Williams

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  1. Sorry, I took it out of a Google link and must have missed some of the Google additions. Thanks for posting the good version.
  2. That one does not have any fluorine compounds, so I say it is a good choice for a general braze flux. Keep away from the ones containing fluorine compounds unless you know exactly why you need it, and have good enough ventilation (1st) and PPE (2nd, and necessary but no substitute for active ventilation) where you and others around won't be breathing it. Keep in mind where the vented stuff goes, too. https://www.hotmaxtorches.com/download/msds/24000%20Brazing%20Flux%20Powder%20MSDS.pdf
  3. The blade says "for stone," which is inclusive of granite. Thomas was simply pointing out the inconsistent callout of slate and marble, which are also included in "stone" and do not require a redundant mention. We are not suggesting worry.
  4. It's just marketing for the not-prone-to-thinking-for-oneself customer that bought slate or marble and now wants a means of cutting it, but can only find this "concrete, tile, brick, stone, and masonry" blade.
  5. Malleable iron and ductile iron will behave in similar ways for an end user. The biggest difference is in making them. You will typically see ductile iron produced nowadays, based on the very long (read expensive) heat treatment required to manufacture malleable iron. You can find more detailed and nuanced information with a simple online search.
  6. Forget the camp fire removing alloying elements part; it doesn't work like that. As for packing alloying elements around an iron/steel bar, encasing it in clay, and heating it up high enough for long enough, you have two possible mechanisms that could credibly create the "case" that you seek. If you are able to control melting to only include the very outside of the bar (i.e., through careful control of temperature AND time, or some creative measurement or observation scheme), then it could work like I (think) you envision it. How well it works would depend in part on the melting po
  7. It might make sense to evaluate my cemented layer that is around 4-5 feet deep. It is a little yellowish. I had never given any consideration to it perhaps being iron containing. I'm certain that it has too much silicon in all of the sand that would accompany it though. I would have to add crushed shells to keep from losing too much iron to iron silicates. I would have to relearn my mass and energy transport material so that I can just calculate the right quantities if it turns out to be useful ore. As for the old sites - I am sure that records detailing the 1860s production can be had.
  8. https://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00099286/00001/42j OCCURRENCE: Bishop and Dee (1961) reported that a deposit of limonite exists near Chiefland, Levy County. They also reported a deposit of yellow ochre in Flagler County. Limonite gives rust-colored stains to soils, limestones, and clays; in larger amounts it acts to cement sand grains and clay particles into hardpans or concretionary forms.
  9. Some elaboration on Thomas's comment on the richness of your ore can be found here: https://www.tf.uni-kiel.de/matwis/amat/iss/kap_a/backbone/ra_2_4.html
  10. Yes. If you ever find yourself wanting to use it, clean it up almost like you would a hammer face. Make sure there are no sharp edges, and you want a very slight dome to it.
  11. There are portions of the summer here where you could lose a child or pet in two week old grass. I've occasionally mowed twice in a week. It depends on how much rain we get. I make a point to avoid any place where there is an HOA or covenant. I don't need to be any place where someone with nothing better to do than measure my grass or compare the color of my mailbox to a paint swatch with the official color to marginally improve their home value can cause me work or hassle.
  12. I could see the rotation being somewhat unpleasant with a bone spur. I'm only semi-country, as I have a lot next to a subdivision. I'm sure the 10 neighbors on that side wonder what went wrong for someone to buy the commercial ag zoned lot behind them to actually use it that way. The previous owner kept it as a huge lawn.
  13. There are at least two US distributors for Schröckenfux scythes that are made in Austria, and there are other valid options available as well (typically from Central or Eastern Europe). "European" style here does not include Britain, as their scythe style is basically the "American" scythe, which may or may not more accurately be called the "English" scythe. I admit to not having researched that enough to know where it actually originated. Sharpening sticks with sand/oil or (now much more commonly) whetstones in water are used as needed while mowing, and peening is required less frequent
  14. The astute reader may now be wondering, "What about a hole in the center of a large plate?" If you heat the plate evenly, then the hole expands in proportion to the plate. Circumference = pi * diameter = pi * radius * 2. The length of the side of a square around said circle = radius * 2. They expand and contract in proportion, provided there is no external constraint such as uneven heating. I leave any attempt at determining specific conditions suitable for shrinking a hole with the addition of localized heat as an exercise for the motivated reader.
  15. You're welcome. For the wagon tire, the hole gets bigger because the whole gets bigger. If you were to measure the full part at room temperature and at fitting temperature, then the wheel (and all features!) would be scaled up proportionately according to the CTE. The length (i.e., the circumference) would increase on I.D. and O.D. by the same proportion. If you make two wheels from two bars, and one bar is longer, then the wheel made (with no other differences) from the longer bar has the larger radius. There is one other slight difference that I need to point out for clarity. I p
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