Chris Williams

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About Chris Williams

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  1. I just came across this thread. Do you notice the heat tint on the lower fracture of the hammer in pictures 4-5? It cracked almost all the way through (the non-tinted portion wasn't cracked yet) either while it was still hot and exposed to oxygen, or else it was heated after cracking. I think you may be correct about when it cracked.
  2. This link says there was never any spring, but that the water was pumped from underground. Grant Co. Geology search The first few of these look useful to know what is in your dirt. The first one looks like what I was trying to find, but it shows up blurry on my phone.
  3. You're welcome Patrick. Frosty, I was meaning to say that this type of steel is frequently used in such applications. I have no reason to suspect that these pieces were used or even were ever destined for use in a pressure vessel.
  4. Since this is used in nuclear power, there are quite a few articles on it (most behind paywalls, however). A couple of articles from the NRC, and abstracts available from their European and Japanese counterparts, tell me the following: This steel should be quite ductile and resistant to fracture, which is why it is used in critical pressure vessel applications. Through hardening thick sections is unreliable. It has good weldability, but is susceptible to hydrogen cracking upon cooling when exposed to hydrogen while molten (also correlated with residual stresses). Based on that, I recommend using a low hydrogen electrode. I also recommend a preheat of 500F+ or thereabouts. (I used the preheat chart here, and picked a preheat for between .45-.75% carbon). For the composition that I found (commercial site, so no link), carbon is up to .27%, molybdenum, manganese, and nickel should be between half and one percent, chrome should be between a quarter and a half percent, silicon a little less than that, & trace S, P, and V. I used these to calculate the carbon equivalent range (from different formulas) that I provided above. The temperatures are close enough in that range that I wouldn't worry too much about the difference. It may not matter for your application, but I am no power hammer expert by anyone's estimation.
  5. Perlite is an excellent insulator, but isn't good for forge temperatures. As long as you have enough of the 2600F wool around it (and your proposed 2-3 inches is plenty), then it shouldn't be a problem. It is just a matter of diminishing returns on your insulation. Make sure to rigidize your wool so that you don't breathe the fibers during use. I haven't built a gas forge yet, and so cannot offer other than what I have read from others. The gas forge forum has many threads from those with significant experience in different materials and approaches. The topic of perlite has been discussed a large number of times on the forum, but the search function is not very good. It is generally recommended that you search Google for "iforgeiron" plus the topic of interest as search terms.
  6. That is certainly a valid approach. I don't know how often it will be relevant, but I would just as soon fix it once with grinding than fix it each time a hardy stem happens to be too long. I am mostly concerned about the hypothetical one time that I don't notice that a bottom tool stem is just a little bit too long and I get it stuck. The thickness of the anvil at the hardy hole gives me confidence to use a sledge liberally . I wouldn't have quite as much ability to apply force from the bottom.
  7. I have one of what I think you are talking about, but it lacks an arm for the crank. It gave quite a strong blast when I cranked it with a temporary handle. I'll try to rig something up and give it a try. I don't think the one I have would last particularly long in continuous use, though, as it is made of plastic. I'll report back once I have tried it.
  8. I noticed something recently that I would like to add to this conversation. I have had my model 12 for around 5 years and love it (admittedly light use with two moves and two kids in that time span). I recently bought a bottom tool with a long shank, and it wouldn't seat down all the way onto the anvil surface. It turns out that the the hardy hole is not square all the way, but rather is only a circular hole towards the bottom. I'll have to file or grind out the last bit to use longer bottom tools. The hardy hole is square for approximately 3 3/8" and circular for approximately the bottom 1 1/2".
  9. At a minimum, consider taking a small round file and rounding the sharp corner.
  10. That's what I get for posting after bedtime. I was imprecise here. I should have said that you will have to plasticly deform the anvil -- i.e. deform permanently.
  11. Work hardening... Image an annealed steel. All of the atoms are aligned in a lowest energy arrangement. That is why the steel is soft. When you apply a force (or "stress") to the steel, it deforms -- this is called strain. Up to a certain amount of stress, when you remove the stress, the strain goes away. This kind of strain is called "elastic strain." Think "rubber band." After the certain amount of stress (which depends on the material and condition), any further strain remains permanent. This is "plastic strain." Plastic strain happens when those atoms arranged in their lowest energy arrangement start moving relative to each other (called "dislocations," there are different kinds but don't worry about that). The atoms then are not in a lowest energy arrangement. This extra energy from this new arrangement now makes it harder for the atoms to move again. Now the stress needed to make the steel strain elasticity increases. This is work hardening. You can repeat the above until enough dislocations line up and the steel breaks. To reset the steel (before it breaks!), just anneal it. This gives the atoms enough energy to move around (i.e. "diffuse") and get comfortable (get in the "lowest energy state") again. Summary: to work harden your anvil, you will have to deform it. Your anvil should already be hard enough that you are not deforming it, and therefore work hardening it, with hammer blows.
  12. SLAG, You are quite welcome. I am particularly fond of the palak paneer and lamb (or mutton) rogan josh. My previous ram stars in the latter frequently.
  13. Urvashi Pitre "Indian Instant Pot Cookbook." This is too good not to share further. I utilize an off-brand cooker, but the recipes come out great. ISBN-10 1939754542 ISBN-13 978-1939754547
  14. Do you have any pictures or drawings of the block?