Chris Williams

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About Chris Williams

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  1. There is a good lesson here for people that have intent to develop products and a customer base -- set your prices based on the replacement cost of your stock, rather than your cost.
  2. I bought a Rigid Peddinghaus Model 12 on sale from PlumbersSupply around 6 years ago. It is a spectacular anvil with a hard face. I agree with Jennifer that the fit and finish are lacking. The chamfers were somewhat rough and the hardy hole was not broached all the way to the bottom. However, the non-full-depth broach has only been in the way once so far and it is an easy fix once I am sufficiently motivated to modify the hole to square full depth. I would buy it again.
  3. Preheat and slow cool. There isn't much thermal mass in a bed frame section, so it will cool quickly and likely have untempered Martensite if you just weld it at ambient and let it cool. If you've already welded it, and it hasn't cracked, then I strongly recommend that you temper the welds. In fact, temper the welds after slow cooling anyways, as you don't know how much carbon is in them and likely aren't controlling the cooling rate precisely.
  4. The square dengelstock tend to have some rounding on the top. I think this one was hammered into a stump rather than the ground, as it is quite short and doesn't have a hole with the cross pieces used to spread the force on the ground.
  5. Well, you're in luck, as neither a forge nor a welder are necessary for wood working. You have a tang that will fit into a hole in your wooden pole. You will want a collar on the outside of the end of the pole to keep it from splitting. My first inclination would be to find out how others are mounted and copy the method you find. Is this for use, or display? I hesitate to suggest something as I would do it if you intend to use it, as I don't have a good grasp on what forces your Guan Dao will experience in use. There are others on the forum who make weapons, practice martial arts, or both. I expect that someone will be able to give a specific procedure for mounting the head safely.
  6. I don't have any specific familiarity with the compressors from F-16s, and even less knowledge on whatever is in the Airbus engines, but I would expect there to be some vanadium in the compositions. Be careful. Also note the autoignition temperature of 2200F in air. Titanium will also burn in CO2 and N2. Don't put water on it in an attempt to put it out if you do end up catching any on fire. Class D extinguisher or table salt are recommended. Ti is forgeable, but it is good to know what NOT to do if something goes wrong.
  7. I would be inclined to make a fork lift tine anvil as previously mentioned. I wouldn't bother with trying to add an S7 face to it, although I do admit to being intrigued by an idea Frosty has mentioned a couple/few times about brazing an air hardening steel face to an ASO (i.e., something shaped like an anvil but not suitable for the purpose). I would use what S7 you have for tools or to face something that needed it. You asked about making a combination anvil/swage. I think that a forklift tine is excellent for getting mass between your hammer and the ground, but it cannot readily be reconfigured to use multiple sides/faces and still retain that advantage of mass under the hammer; therefore, I wouldn't try to make it a combo. You can forge or grind swages into pieces of your forklift tines that you don't use for your anvil(s). If you make a hardy hole in your anvil (such as just outside the fork bend) or a portable hardy hole, you can weld hardy shanks to the swages. Alternatively, you can hold your swages in a post vice, fab a stand for them, or cut grooves into a stump to hold them. These last three options allow you to make swages with different shapes on different faces and turn your swage to present the shape that you want when you need it. If you are set on making a combination anvil/swage, look up Glen GS Tongs on YouTube. He uses a couple of interesting anvil/swages that may give you some ideas. If you have any large blocks of steel (mild or otherwise), this may be a reasonable path.
  8. Glen (of Glen GS Tongs) does all or most of his forging sitting down. You can watch how he positions and uses his tools on his YouTube channel: link removed As Thomas has already suggested, I would talk to your PT beforehand; make sure that you know what NOT to do as well!
  9. There is no problem with using a more narrow range within an otherwise acceptable temperature range. Process repeatability helps in manufacturing a more consistent product.
  10. These are the worst of the pine "fires" I have had in routine forging. The only one still smoldering when I noticed it was the one on the log. I don't see pine as unsafe for you work platforms.
  11. I've had several pine stands, whether it is dimensioned lumber (pressure treated or not) or logs. I've had a few small smoldering fires from hot metal sat on them or tiny bits of coke or charcoal that had been stuck on the work piece and fell, but nothing that I would consider a particularly high fire risk. I think having a shut down routine the way Frosty recommends is important -- part of that is to make sure to take some time after your fire is out and your nose is clear to smell for a fire. The pine fires have been obvious to me every time.
  12. I've used slabs of wood like you are using the plate. They last longer than they seem like they should in the application.
  13. It's from the Winter of the World series. There is at least one more in the series. I will post the name if I can find it when I get home. I really enjoyed them.
  14. What type of ceramic kiln are you using? What type of controller does it use? There may or may not be a good way to accomplish what you describe with your current equipment, but you haven't provided enough information for anyone to answer your question.