Chris Williams

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About Chris Williams

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  1. That isn't an unreasonable price here (assuming location based on your handle) if it has decent rebound, the forge is in the described condition, and you need the forge. Better anvils come up for similar prices if you are willing to be patient. I neglected to pick up a bigger, only slightly beat up Soderfors for an advertised $600 several months ago. Irregardless of your decision on the anvil, I recommend that you check out FABA: https://blacksmithing.org
  2. Ash is an insulator, and you can put items into wood ashes to anneal them, for example. When you get ashes hot enough (as in a solid fuel forge), they will melt and you will be removing them as clinker. I cannot answer what exact temperature ashes will melt, particularly since it will depend on what they are made of and what proportion of each constituent is present.
  3. I haven't done this before, so I cannot provide any useful advice. I am interested in seeing what you accomplish with the steel, though.
  4. Thanks for the write up. You've provided me with a few new insights on this style of hammer.
  5. Search for my name and the word blacksmith, and you will find numerous pinterest links to images of or from a professional (architectural?) blacksmith named "Chris Williams." Below that, you can find a different Chris Williams' (knife maker) business page. I assure you, I am neither of them. With this in mind, I read through Steve's recent thread on Trademark infringement with interest. Other than misuse of legal business names or filed trademarks, how does one defend a reputation if one party has as much of a legal claim to a "name" (i.e. given, not business) as the other? I don't have a blacksmithing business, but I won't limit the name to mine if/when.
  6. What is (as opposed to what isn't).
  7. I just came across this thread. Do you notice the heat tint on the lower fracture of the hammer in pictures 4-5? It cracked almost all the way through (the non-tinted portion wasn't cracked yet) either while it was still hot and exposed to oxygen, or else it was heated after cracking. I think you may be correct about when it cracked.
  8. http://sites.rootsweb.com/~kygrant/carlsbad.html This link says there was never any spring, but that the water was pumped from underground. Grant Co. Geology search The first few of these look useful to know what is in your dirt. The first one looks like what I was trying to find, but it shows up blurry on my phone.
  9. You're welcome Patrick. Frosty, I was meaning to say that this type of steel is frequently used in such applications. I have no reason to suspect that these pieces were used or even were ever destined for use in a pressure vessel.
  10. Since this is used in nuclear power, there are quite a few articles on it (most behind paywalls, however). A couple of articles from the NRC, and abstracts available from their European and Japanese counterparts, tell me the following: This steel should be quite ductile and resistant to fracture, which is why it is used in critical pressure vessel applications. Through hardening thick sections is unreliable. It has good weldability, but is susceptible to hydrogen cracking upon cooling when exposed to hydrogen while molten (also correlated with residual stresses). Based on that, I recommend using a low hydrogen electrode. I also recommend a preheat of 500F+ or thereabouts. (I used the preheat chart here, and picked a preheat for between .45-.75% carbon). For the composition that I found (commercial site, so no link), carbon is up to .27%, molybdenum, manganese, and nickel should be between half and one percent, chrome should be between a quarter and a half percent, silicon a little less than that, & trace S, P, and V. I used these to calculate the carbon equivalent range (from different formulas) that I provided above. The temperatures are close enough in that range that I wouldn't worry too much about the difference. It may not matter for your application, but I am no power hammer expert by anyone's estimation.
  11. Perlite is an excellent insulator, but isn't good for forge temperatures. As long as you have enough of the 2600F wool around it (and your proposed 2-3 inches is plenty), then it shouldn't be a problem. It is just a matter of diminishing returns on your insulation. Make sure to rigidize your wool so that you don't breathe the fibers during use. I haven't built a gas forge yet, and so cannot offer other than what I have read from others. The gas forge forum has many threads from those with significant experience in different materials and approaches. The topic of perlite has been discussed a large number of times on the forum, but the search function is not very good. It is generally recommended that you search Google for "iforgeiron" plus the topic of interest as search terms.
  12. That is certainly a valid approach. I don't know how often it will be relevant, but I would just as soon fix it once with grinding than fix it each time a hardy stem happens to be too long. I am mostly concerned about the hypothetical one time that I don't notice that a bottom tool stem is just a little bit too long and I get it stuck. The thickness of the anvil at the hardy hole gives me confidence to use a sledge liberally . I wouldn't have quite as much ability to apply force from the bottom.
  13. I have one of what I think you are talking about, but it lacks an arm for the crank. It gave quite a strong blast when I cranked it with a temporary handle. I'll try to rig something up and give it a try. I don't think the one I have would last particularly long in continuous use, though, as it is made of plastic. I'll report back once I have tried it.
  14. I noticed something recently that I would like to add to this conversation. I have had my model 12 for around 5 years and love it (admittedly light use with two moves and two kids in that time span). I recently bought a bottom tool with a long shank, and it wouldn't seat down all the way onto the anvil surface. It turns out that the the hardy hole is not square all the way, but rather is only a circular hole towards the bottom. I'll have to file or grind out the last bit to use longer bottom tools. The hardy hole is square for approximately 3 3/8" and circular for approximately the bottom 1 1/2".
  15. At a minimum, consider taking a small round file and rounding the sharp corner.