Chris Williams

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  1. Glen (of Glen GS Tongs) does all or most of his forging sitting down. You can watch how he positions and uses his tools on his YouTube channel: link removed As Thomas has already suggested, I would talk to your PT beforehand; make sure that you know what NOT to do as well!
  2. There is no problem with using a more narrow range within an otherwise acceptable temperature range. Process repeatability helps in manufacturing a more consistent product.
  3. These are the worst of the pine "fires" I have had in routine forging. The only one still smoldering when I noticed it was the one on the log. I don't see pine as unsafe for you work platforms.
  4. I've had several pine stands, whether it is dimensioned lumber (pressure treated or not) or logs. I've had a few small smoldering fires from hot metal sat on them or tiny bits of coke or charcoal that had been stuck on the work piece and fell, but nothing that I would consider a particularly high fire risk. I think having a shut down routine the way Frosty recommends is important -- part of that is to make sure to take some time after your fire is out and your nose is clear to smell for a fire. The pine fires have been obvious to me every time.
  5. I've used slabs of wood like you are using the plate. They last longer than they seem like they should in the application.
  6. It's from the Winter of the World series. There is at least one more in the series. I will post the name if I can find it when I get home. I really enjoyed them.
  7. What type of ceramic kiln are you using? What type of controller does it use? There may or may not be a good way to accomplish what you describe with your current equipment, but you haven't provided enough information for anyone to answer your question.
  8. Here is another way from this thread:
  9. This is the correct place. Nice swages. Do you have any specific plans for using them?
  10. The Big Dog Forge treadle hammer is based on this one: The video walks you through the hammer design, use, and tooling. There used to be a thorough write up on his web page, but it has been reorganized and I cannot find it currently.
  11. A correction: my wording earlier wasn't just unclear, but wrong. Toughness is mandatory, whereas hardness is nice to have only after the toughness requirement is met. You don't want something at all brittle.
  12. You want something hard (resists deformation) AND tough (resists cracking); you definitely don't want something very brittle. I don't have strong familiarity with oil field steels. If you can post those that you have available to you that you know to be at least hard OR tough, then we can help you down-select. Are you planning / able to / willing to heat treat, or do you need to use them in the HT condition you get them? This may sway the choice considerably.
  13. Just for posterity: I cannot edit, or I would delete my post above now that IDF&C has posted. I thought I had posted Jasen's thread (I could even see it), but it disappeared. I wasn't providing anything original.