Chris Williams

Members
  • Content Count

    83
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Chris Williams

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Central Florida

Recent Profile Visitors

1,195 profile views
  1. You'll get appreciable oxidation at forge temps of 2,300+ F (~1,250 C). It won't last forever unprotected*, **. *Note that how you control your forge atmosphere is going to significantly impact how long you get out of a Ti liner. A reducing atmosphere may provide a long life, whereas an oxidizing atmosphere would likely consume a 1mm liner relatively quickly at forge temperatures. **Now that I think about it, you will still have quite a lot of hot nitrogen in your forge no matter what. Without spending much time looking for data, I found an autoignition temperature of somewhere between ~1,472F-2,200F / 800C-1,200C (certain variables can impact this, and I didn't look at the study configurations) for titanium metal in nitrogen gas. In other words, your liner could burn in the nitrogen present in your forge without an additional ignition mechanism. I'm not saying that it necessarily WILL happen, but that it shouldn't be a surprise when it does.
  2. I would do this with it, or make the tools that Mr. Stephens sketched out.
  3. It may very well be the case that good quality bearings used in most applications are 52100, and it is certainly the most common alloy I saw in bearings by far.
  4. Not so. Many failed aircraft bearings (USA made only) that I analyzed were 52100, but there were other alloys. It depends on the application, cost, and presumably other factors.
  5. I haven't seen anything about that one. One of the other auction site anvils (also 66 lbs. and ~$2 lb) has been reviewed thoroughly here:
  6. Wouldn't a water cooled tuyere be even more of a heat sink? Yet, we know them to be effective options. I don't see it as a capability issue, but rather how long the tuyere (and additional consumable "shield" bit) lasts. I was thinking of the hub being more of a dam that kept most of the clay in place but still allowed the tuyere pipe to be fed in as it degrades. In practice, I would expect clay to be present on both sides of the hub to some degree. Maybe I do not see it the way you intended to use it.
  7. Maybe this is a silly question, but if you just turn the hub around, would it save you the cutting? Can you feed the tuyere in through the hub as the tuyere tip degrades?
  8. I fell into this trap years ago. What you want is a brake disk, and not necessarily a large one, to serve as your firepot. The tuyere (air input) attaches to the bottom of the center hole of the disk (or yes, even a drum if you have one that has appropriate dimensions). This is, of course, only valid if you want to make a bottom blast. For a side blast, you don't need a "firepot" as such. Using the large brake drum, I had a difficult time getting the sweet spot of the fire high enough to work anything except the end of a piece. For a very large forge, with more fuel, and more air, and larger stock, a big drum may be appropriate. I did once see a very small brake drum, presumably from a trailer, that I thought would work well for a forge appropriate for working small stock. It was in the middle of a construction zone on the interstate in Jacksonville FL with nowhere to pull over, so I was not able to grab it to try out. Now the conclusion -- despite all of my rambling above, suitability depends on what you need for your forge to accomplish when selecting your firepot.
  9. What about a little songbird sitting on the leftmost projection of the lower section of vine, and a grasshopper, katydid, or butterfly somewhere on the other panels? Snails are common additions to gates. I think wire brushing the creature with a brass brush at a black heat would set it apart well.
  10. If you do choose to weld it, I strongly echo Mr. Powers' recommendation on the repair method. It will be hot, tedious work, but ultimately provide a good anvil. Welding skill is a prerequisite for success. I'll give you $50 for it at the faba annual conference in Ocala (if you happen to be going), but only if you don't weld or grind on it. I've been wanting to try out an idea that Mr. Frosty has mentioned a few times, and this would make a good candidate.
  11. https://www.abodo.co.nz/resources/articles/how-long-does-charred-wood-shou-sugi-ban-last This site talks about some of the variables in a simple and direct way, including a warning that some woods (including hardwoods) aren't suitable for the method. I don't know if I agree with all of the generalizations made, however, based on the anecdote below: I've still got a chunk of hardwood log that was partially burned in a fire sitting in the pasture. It has been there for years with no notable degradation, but the typical sticks, limbs, etc. have long since rotted or been eaten by termites. It is clear that the charring has deterred rot/bugs.
  12. Mr. SLAG, You, Sir, have provided me with inspiration for a gardening project. I will report back once I have results, either positive or negative. If only the little vampires couldn't stand coal smoke... Chris
  13. Probably the mosquitoes... They sure do well in this environment. We've got 5 common unpleasant varieties, and some of them even fly away after you swat them. This time of the year, about half-a-dozen come in every time the door gets opened.
  14. Be aware that if you heat it up into the sensitization range (assuming don't have a stabilized or L stainless, per the source and application), you will precipitate chromium carbide into the grain boundaries. This will make it stainmore steel, and it may corrode aggressively at the grain boundaries due to the absence of sufficient chromium to form a dense and adherent chromia layer. I don't recall the relevant temperature range off the top of my head, but I have given enough information for you to look it up if you care. I am boarding a plane, or I would look it up myself.
  15. 1) No, it won't work. Use typical clay soil and sand as Mr. pnut has stated for your washtub forge, and a commercially available refractory for your kiln. I don't have enough knowledge about kiln applications to suggest a particular one. There is a refractory subforum inside the gas forge forum, and I suggest that you look there. 2) Don't use cement at all unless you want it to spall when the water bound to the concrete turns to steam. When it spalls, expect hot cement and burning fuel thrown on you at high speed during the steam explosion. 3) See the answer to (1) I would also like to recommend that you use a piston (made from any round metal piece that fits your pipe somewhat snugly) rather than the end cap to seal your air pipe. You can move the piston in and out to control how many holes are blowing into your fuel, and therefore have a variable fire size.