Justin Topp Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 1/2” Nut and bolt swage finished up. Made from hydraulic cylinder rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 those should work.. Nice job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 Rescued this Canedy Otto Tiger forge blower from being scrapped today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 boy have you been in the right place at the right time these days.. Well, done.. This blower was considered a Cadillac.. It doesn't leak oil everywhere unlike champion and buffalo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 Haha yes I have. My neighbor just put it on the curb for garbage week to be thrown out. So I grabbed it right up. It’s stuck but I got it moving a bit and am soaking in diesel currently to hopefully fully get it Moving. Otherwise it’s in great shape. Good to know it’s a good blower. Feels really solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 Good save Justin! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 Thanks Frosty! On a side note the nut swage I made works fantastically. Made a 7/16” nut tonight. had a few problems but I know Joe to correct those for the next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 I freed up a C-O blower recently. Over filled the oil sump with plain, (no leak stoppers!), ATF and let it soak a month---having a dirt floor in the shop makes oil leak cleanup easy. Then I was able to pry the fan CAREFULLY back and forth a 1/4", then 1/2" then half a turn and then it was off to the races! Cranked it a while as rust is a lapping compound. Clean flush and fill with oil to the correct level and it was done. I sold it on as I actually prefer my champion hand crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 Hmm. Gonna try moving it once I get home. It’s been soaking a while in diesel. How much oil should I put in it? any reason you prefer the champion over the C-O blower? Also as a side note does anyone know why are champion 400 blowers so popular compared to C-O or buffalo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 I filled the entire reservoir with ATF to start; knowing that it would leak out along the shafts; but as I mentioned easy to clean a dirt floor! The blower had been laying flat on a concrete floor for 25 years and I was pretty sure any previous lubrication was a mess inside---I didn't want to pull the gear box cover. So long time soaking, full reservoir, Gentle work. I had to heat the counterbalance in the forge to get the screw to come out; wire brushed it, oiled it and that worked fine too. Once it's clean, running and flushed there is a marking on the blower that says fill to this point. The gearing on the C-O was much nicer and seemed to be more of them. However when I cranked it there seemed to be more resistance and when I let go it stopped sooner than my champion. And I had been using the champion for decades and so was used to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 I got it running smoothly but when I went to fill with oil. Filled to the top. because it said full to plug. And it leaked everywhere. Including through the shaft between the gears and fan. So I was wondering if There are gaskets that need replacing it something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 The plug should be about 3/8" - 1/2" off the bottom of the gear box. They are splash oil systems so the bottom gear touching the oil in the reservoir gets carried to everything in the drive train. My Champ only wants a few drops in the oilers per session. There is an oil port (oiler) above the main gear and one on each end of the main shaft. I use chainsaw bar oil with a friction proofing additive. Heck I use bar oil in almost anything that needs a little oil: chain saws, blower, Little Giant, door hinges, latch on the snow plow, etc. My LG doesn't slobber oil though there IS a little running from the main bearing in front. If it's slobbering and slinging oil you're using too much. Mine is perfectly happy with a couple drops, a squirt in the main bearing oil cups runs down the frame. A few drops and rock the crank plate by hand to distribute it and she's ready to rock. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 Ah that would explain it. Found the second oil port. I guess it’s definitely all lubricated now haha. This blower has the port above the gears and second port on bottom. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 I only open the bottom plug to make sure there isn't too much oil collecting in it. It helps prevent oil leaking on the floor. I only use it outside but it gets to live inside. We're not using the same kind of oil they made when these blowers were new. Modern, say the last 40 years, oil is stabilized and doesn't turn to sludge then pavement over time, it stays oil. Getting 100 years of oil sludge pavement cleared out of the gears is maybe 90% + of putting one of these old gems back in action. You probably aren't old enough to remember needing to change oil and filter in the vehicle every 2,000 miles and about every 10,000 miles warm the engine up good, drain the oil, put the plug back in and put a gallon of kerosene or diesel in the crank case, fire it up and let it idle a few minute to cut the sludge. I'd be surprised if blowers didn't get lard for lube. Lube oil of any kind wasn't cheap on the frontier or just early days. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 The CO blowers only leak if over filled. They are a wet lube system and actually have seals that help to keep from dumping oil all over the place. Justin, The champion 400 blowers were highly machined with real bearings. So were considered by many to be a superior blower but leak oil constantly and even a few drops of proper oil should be added during an 8hr forge session. Buffalo blowers the "Silent 200" is my favorite blower out of all of them and it to is an oil leaker. I find it puts out more air then the Champion 400 or the CO but the machine work is not as tight, but they did things that cheapened them as time went on.. You could still buy Buffalo forge blowers into the 80's vs the others which were out of business. The early Buffalo Silent 200's had some nice machine work and were setup for a really long time of use with true ball bearings where needed with bushings else where. I own 6 or 8 Buffalo Silent 200's from a very early model which was a 12", several 14" and even a 16" which is sized up completely. I own 1 CO which was traded to me from another smith that subcontracted some work to me and paid me with blower. I own 1 Champion 400 and was bought and used for demos as it was on a stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 I’ll open it up on the next fill. Thanks for the advise. This has a huge globe of grease that was in the top of it under the top port. That came out easily. I think mine may be missing the seal because it leaks oil out of the bottom of the gear box on the seam. Haven’t heard of the silent 200 blowers but sounds like it would be pretty good. And thanks for the info about the 400. the CO blower works fantastically other than the oil leaks. But once it’s drained I’m going to take it apart. Clean it and try filling it less. It’s missing the counter wait so I was wondering can I just take a bit of round bar maybe 1-3/8” and drill a slot and add a set screw? Or does it for some reason need to be more complicated than that? I assume it’s primary to help it continue to spin after you stop cranking? Currently spins about 3 revolutions when I stop from a reasonable cranking speed. also I was Inspired by early Ironwork I turned an old horseshoe into a hinge. Using the hand crank and corn for fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 Picked up a fairly tough shape badger anvil for 25 bucks today. 60 pounds. Horn has been ground flat on top and the heel and part of the edge is chipped. But the main face is pretty good with around 70% rebound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 Also any idea why it has handling holes ? Never seen em on a small cast anvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chelonian Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 I think they're for handling it while grinding the face after casting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Or just in imitation of those in wrought anvils. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 I think your right JHCC it’s not that big of an anvil to be hard to handle. For grinding. Being an imitation seems accurate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Although it's worth noting that the handling holes were used in the grinding of wrought anvils, as shown in this photo of a Mousehole (aka The Undisputed King of Anvils) getting its face dressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Great photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 It is. I really like how well it shows the dynamic system of grinding wheel, suspension chain, front porter bar, and bottom porter bar. The weight of the anvil is completely supported, and the worker has a lot of control over where on the face the anvil is getting ground and how much, just by changing which bar he is pushing and how hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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