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Burners 101


Mikey98118

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I know Tim, I'm long past feeling defensive about making mistakes and deeply appreciate when someone points them. Especially when a mistake can make life so much more difficult than necessary for folks just breaking into the craft. 

You done good Bro. Thanks! :)

Frosty The Lucky.

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On 10/12/2019 at 1:10 PM, Frosty said:

I got that completely backwards! Please everybody disregard my last post, it's as wrong as can be.

Shows you how observant I was :unsure:  I knew what you meant and just went with it.  I guess I just listened to what you meant, not what you said - I often screw up verbally (thank god for word processors).

DanR

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Three is the magic number

To answer your question, Jbradshaw:

Only if you want to "play it safe." I originally went for larger air openings then I needed, to play it safe. Since then, the group has discovered that more spin is better than unused extra opening space, BUT, if you under estimate how much opening is needed, you will end up needing to do some extra work to enlarge them. To get back to your question, yes, you can end up with wider rib widths--without sacrificing any of the total air opening space by reducing down from four ribs to three; a win-win situation.

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To  repeat, my burner changes are scattered throughout this thread; sorry about that. But the biggest single change is mentioned right above your question. Beyond this, you would meed to look into the 3D printed burner thread, if you want to go beyond my burners...

As to Frosty; he has just gone through the trouble to update his burner plans, on the thread deducted to it. just look on his thread and there it is :)

I'm sorry, but there is no magic wand that is going to provide another book for you, and I don't think I have what it takes to write another one.

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3 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

To  repeat, my burner changes are scattered throughout this thread; sorry about that. But the biggest single change is mentioned right above your question. Beyond this, you would meed to look into the 3D printed burner thread, if you want to go beyond my burners...

As to Frosty; he has just gone through the trouble to update his burner plans, on the thread deducted to it. just look on his thread and there it is :)

I'm sorry, but there is no magic wand that is going to provide another book for you, and I don't think I have what it takes to write another one.

Sorry, it’s about 1000 posts over 3.5 years.  I find a lot of it confusing and contradictory.  There seems to be multiple build posts by others, so I thought some of them might be approved as good builds with the latest info.  I’m a diy guy, but don’t need all the nuances.  I’ll get back to reading the builds.  Thanks

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  • 3 weeks later...

What burner would I recommend in a box forge: Mikey or "T"? I would recommend the "T" burner over mine "any day of the week, and twice on Sunday." Why? Frost's burner has a softer flame, which will mute the tendency of box forges to have hot and cold pots. A hard flame will accentuates the tenancy for hot and cold spots. Logically, the multi-flame nozzles of ribbon burners should do even better at evenly heating a cubic internal area.

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20 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

I would like to hear more about ribbon burners running box forges.It would seem that they would shine there.

I agree!  My .125" NARB lives up top of my little round forge.  I decided to reduce the interior size, so I added wool on the sides making a kind of Isosceles Trapezoid (not a box, but easy to do with IFB).  Not much need for swirl like with the tube burners. The burner could be a little further up (it's about 5" high), because when I have a high billet  in there,  or HTing a knife perpendicular to the floor the top looks like it's in a bit more oxidizing atmosphere.

Upshot is that I agree this burner works really well in a box forge.

IMG_7668.jpg.17f001d36e0d2d63b368105d155b9fdd.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

First, sorry for the slow reply; I've just managed to get back on line. Here's an update on the subject

.025" MIG contact tips

.025" tips. are supposed to have .034" diameter orifices; some do and some are actually .023" tips (.031" orifices), that have been listed as .025" on the convenient assumption that, in wire feed welders, they are interchangeable; which is total BS,  even if you were using them for welding! When re-purposed as part of a 3/4" high speed burner, the differences is infuriating.

So, bottom lining, you need to look closely in the sales literature before purchase, if you want to have the optimum orifice diameter gas jet.

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I am a fan of the 3D printer nozzles as orifices, over the mig tips.  They are listed in exact size, they are brass, they are inexpensive and they have a shorter channel length which outputs a higher velocity stream per fuel pressure.    

I am curious what a 3/4 Mikey would do with a 0.8 to 1 mm printer nozzle.  

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