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About Jbradshaw

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    Wood carving tools, knives
  1. @GrumpyBiker I entered the gas forge world the same way. I didnt want to spend big bucks until I knew it was something I wanted to continue with. So I made a brick pile forge using hard brick (what I coulD find locally) and a Frosty T burner. It did take a bit to get up to temperature. But it let me make an informed decision about whether I wanted to spend the money to make a more permanent forge.
  2. Does anyone have any thoughts on a bolt together version of this style of press?
  3. I am so glad I found this thread. I was starting the Burners 101 thread from the beginning again looking for the ideal orifice size for a 1/2" Mikey Burner since the MIG tips don't run small enough. Very early in that thread this one was referenced so I went looking. (I never actually got to my answer because I went on a search for this one). Commenting just to bump it in case anyone else missed it that would be interested.
  4. Thanks. But I will remain a little dissatisfied until I do get it tuned perfectly since I know that it should be able to be. I will probably use it for a little bit and then get back to tinkering with it. Or maybe move on to a stainless steel version with three air openings instead of four. I was reading the thread on natural gas fired forges and saw a post a couple years old mentioning that vortex burners might work well with the low pressure that natural gas is supplied at. Did you ever get around to experimenting with a natural gas vortex burner?
  5. Do I win a prize? I'll get back to experimenting with the orifice size soon. The baby woke up right after taking that photo. In the meantime it's good to know that it does the job if needed.
  6. Well it's my first go at it. If I come up with something better in the future I'll let you know I noticed that the center cone on the flame in my last photo was a little off center. So I checked my jet and saw that it was no longer centered. I adjusted it back to center and fired it up. That did not make any difference in my flame in open air (I didn't really expect it to). I decided to stick it in the forge just to see what it looks like. I only letter it burn for a couple of minutes so it's not really up to forging temperatures yet
  7. Sure. Running these small wire gauge bits through copper was actually quite easy to do. I found that the flutes did not carry the chips out very well though. So my approach was to twist the bit with gentle pressure using a pin vise until it started to bind. I would pause briefly, then continue to twist clockwise as if I were still trying to drill, and pull the bit all the way out of the hole. The twisting was an attempt to remove as much of the debris as possible while removing the bit. Once the bit was out I cleared the flutes with my fingers, and the continued as above. I did not use any lubricant for this process.
  8. Thanks for the link. That's a great video
  9. Mikey thanks for the offer. I may take you up on it. But now a day later my frustration has abated. I'm going to try going back down to a smaller orifice and being more patient with trying to tune each increase.
  10. I think I need to either get a second regulator, or hook up a line for a hand burner to my current setup. While I keep working on this it means I don't have my forge connected to a tank and can't do any forging (which is the whole point of making a burner anyway) That's the real reason I want to call it good enough.
  11. Mikey this is a stepped nozzle. 1-5/16" ID stainless steel tubing per note 1, page 161 in your book. I do have a commercial tapered nozzle, but I have not tried it on this burner yet. I went down the path of enlarging the orifice based on your suggestion a few pages back (I could barely open the choke with a 0.023 tip and the 0.030 was too large.) I think a big part of the problem I am having stems from not having seen a "perfect" flame with my own eyes. I have seen pictures and to my eyes my flame looks the same. But the above picture of my flame looks quite a bit different. Unfortunately I don't have local access to anyone with significant expertise so I can't sit down and compare two side by side. So you're stuck as my go to for questions. So if manipulating the orifice size is not the answer, and I'm already using a stepped nozzle, what is the next step? With a reducing flame that means I need more oxygen, correct? So should I be looking to widen my air intakes? Bevel the sides in addition to front of the openings? Improve the bevel/scoop on my choke? Or go back to a smaller orifice and be more careful in tuning before enlarging to the next step?
  12. To turn the conversation back a few pages now. Sorry. I bought a set of 61-80 wire gauge drill bits and a pin vise to enlarge he orifice on the Mikey burner I'm working on. I already had some 0.025 mig tips so for s&g I used the bits to confirm that the orifice is about one size larger on the 0.025 tip than the 0.023 tip. I then enlarged the orifice on the 0.025 tip, checking the flame after each enlargement. I got all the way to a size 63 before I was able to get a stable enough flame to open the choke more than 3/4". The flame produces at that point was not appreciably different than the last photo I posted (see page 19 or 20 I think). So I decided to drop back a few bit sizes and try again. With a size 66 bit I was able to get a stable enough flame to open the choke all the way. I needed to be more careful in adjusting the flame nozzle, move 1/16" and lock down between firings to find the sweet spot instead of moving it while burning. Then some tweaking of jet placement and I got this. It looks to me like I have more of the blue primary that you said I should be looking for and less of the green hues. Still not sure it's perfect, but maybe good enough?
  13. What was your starting stock for these? And what finish did you apply? (I'm assuming these are for outdoor use) I'm planning on forging the hinges for the door on a shed in building. Right now I'm still in the discovery phase of the project.
  14. Mikey SO I tried dropping down to a 0.023 tip last night but I have a hard time tuning it because I can't keep it burning. Once I get the start of a clear cone, very minor movements in the nozzle will cause it to blow out. And I cannot open the choke more than about 1/2" or it blows out. Any tips? Or do I have to accept that my last picture is about as good as this burner is going to get (and consider starting over if I am going to try to achieve perfection)? I gave up trying to tune it out of frustration last night, but will try again tonight. I have printed out all of the book sections you uploaded, and have read through some but not all of them yet. After I have read them a couple of times I may be able to ask intelligent questions about it, but not yet. Building one of these vortex burners seems daunting, more than your previous burner designs. I will probably give a try after I get some other projects out of the way though.
  15. Mikey comment away. Anything I can learn to improve my skill set is a positive to me. Here is the burner pictured above after minor tuning, same light (LED shop light on the other end of the one car garage and an overhead 100w incandescent bulb), same camera (iPhone 6). I moved the flame nozzle back from about 1&1/2" overhang to about 1&1/8" overhang. This is held in place with set screws so is very quick and easy to adjust. The other change was I small movement of the accelerator tube. This is held in place by a single collet nut. So loosen and then tighten the nut back up. The flame is more blue to my eyes than this photo shows.