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Mikey98118

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Everything posted by Mikey98118

  1. But, aren't there high quality keyless chucks? Yes, but they cost more money than the power tool you may want to mount them on!
  2. About keyed chucks Ever wonder why so many drill presses in steel shops have keyless chucks? No, it isn’t because the keys get lost; it’s due to the moron factor. Some gorilla uses a hammer to tighten the original keyed chuck, instead of using the key to tighten it gradually, by using all three holes in turn: 1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3…until the bit is tight. Just a little bit of such pounding will destroy any keyed chuck. Then the owner replaces it with a keyless chuck—because it’s too inconvenient to fire all the shop’s gorillas. And so, second rate keyless chucks have become popular, and chaos wins another victory. New chucks of either kind, need tender loving care; oil them and baby them over sticking spots until they wear in a little bit. Open the chuck completely and put a drop of oil on one of the ways. Then, use the motor to completely close and open the jaws a few times, to spread the oil over moving parts; repeat this procedure occasionally, to lubricate internal surfaces and protect against rust.
  3. You posted two flame photos; the first is a daylight photo at a distance, which limits the amount of useful information. However, the flame pattern looks strong, and its color is light blue, without any hint of green, which are hopeful signs. the night photo simply indicates that the burners could be turned down quite a bit. Remember that you have two burners in a forge that could probably do quite well with a single burner of the same size. So get used to turning down the gas pressure; especially after you finish the brick baffle walls.
  4. Now, you want to work on a firebrick wall at both forge ends; hard against the forge shell at the back opening, and about 1" away from the shell edge on the front opening. You move the brick around to arrange an opening within the brick to pass the work you're heating in through. Employ the same finish coat on the inside faces of the brick that you are using in the forge.
  5. Abrasive stones versus wheels: Stones have advantages in working inside small tubes and pipes. Wheels grind faster than stones, because their larger diameters create higher surface speeds, if the pipe or tube is large enough for their use; of course, a dressing stone can make the wheel fit. All of these products consist of grit bonded together by resin. But stones are also glued onto their steel shanks, creating a major failure point. Wheels have arbor holes that accept rotary mandrels, so wheels are far more durable than stones. Silicon carbide grit is harder than and sharper than aluminum oxide. But more brittle; it is also available in stones and wheels. Silicon carbide stones have been much more expensive than the wheels (their prices are falling now). Silicon carbide stones and wheels usually come in light blue, (and occasionally) green colors; very seldom in charcoal grey. Remember to only use abrasive colors as general clues about what the abrasive material actually is. Make sure that the advertisement specifies exactly what material, before purchase. There are several superior materials becoming available in abrasive products, such as manufactured ceramic abrasives, and zirconium abrasives. The last place you can expect to find them is in rotary tool accessories, but you will find advertisements suggesting that ‘bargain’ stones are made with them. Just remember that you never get more than you pay for. Also, these sites do everything they can to keep you from reading their critical customer reviews. So, how can you balance, shape, or reduce the diameters of silicon carbide stones and wheels? With diamond coated dressing stones (or cheap imported small diameter diamond coated cutoff discs). Zirconia Alumina (ZTA) is zirconia toughened fused alumina; it is one of the new abrasive materials available in flap discs; it may eventually become available in stones and wheels. Just because the grit is a superior material doesn’t guarantee the stone will be. Remember that factory seconds aren’t thrown out in Asia; they just get sold to drop shippers with no reputation to protect. If a deal looks too good to be true, it probably is: CBN (cubic boron nitride) abrasive products last about twenty times longer than aluminum oxide products; it also grinds and cuts faster, because the grit is nearly as hard as diamond, but is more thermally resistant; it is just becoming available in cutoff discs. Titanium dioxide is a new ceramic abrasive grit that is available in flap discs. From a domestic manufacturer the term “ceramic abrasive” denotes one of several advanced synthetic grits; from a drop shipper it can mean anything, or nothing whatsoever. “Corundum sand” should denote aluminum oxide crystals in trigonal form (ex. Ruby and sapphire), but can also be used as a basically meaningless term, by drop shippers. Aluminum oxide (Al 203) comes in several forms, both synthetic (fused alumina) and as crushed natural minerals; it can simply be crushed garnet, which is 7 to 8 on the Mohs scale, or as low as 6 and as high as 8.5, depending on what source you consult; fine for sanding wood, but a poor choice on steel); or it can be corundum crystal, which is the hardest crystal form of aluminum oxide (9 on the Mohs scale). Corundum crystal comes in every color, and from opaque to gem quality translucent. One of the tricks you need to watch out for is drop shipper advertisements that start out describing abrasive accessories as silicon carbide, etc., and then go on to describe them as corundum sand. You may rest assured that they are at worst, no higher grade than the garnet found on sandpaper, or at best fused aluminum oxide: with blue are green die added to their bonding resin. Note: Die colors used in various sanding and grinding products have been used for decades by abrasive stone manufacturers to denote grit particle sizes. This practice has always been a sales aid, only. There isn’t any code governing colors. Different manufactures do not necessarily use the same colors to denote particle size, and drop shippers are more than willing to use false impressions to help sell lesser products to the unwary. Blue-green to green die has been used by American manufacturers to denote silicon carbide grinding stones for over half a century. Surprise, surprise; drop shipper products favorite color for abrasive stones they are trying to pass off as something more than aluminum oxide is blue-green to green. One ad also described the shank diameter of a set of these same abrasive stones both as 3mm and as 1/8" (which is 3.2mm; 0.125”); Not that it matters, since the shanks were actually 2.9mm (0.113”), which would probably be flung out of a rotary tool, with a 1/8" collet; but will work fine in a Dremel 4486 keyless chuck. Two genuine Dremel silicon carbide stones will probably last as long as ten of these ‘bargain’ stones; if you can’t find the size or shape you want in a high-quality stone, the bargain stones are the only game in town. Tiny stones are handy for working on ¼” (and smaller) burners. There were five tapered (bullet shaped) stones with diameters of 0.15”; 0.19”; 0.23”; 0.31”; and 0.39”; with five cylinders in the same diameters. This set of stones has many sellers on Amazon.com. and on eBay; the blue colored stones are #80 grit, and the yellow (#240) grit. Some offers have fine white stones (grit number unknown). The best offer for these stones is a 36-piece set in a plastic box; there are blue (course grit), pink (medium grit) and white (fine grit) stones; half of them are bullet shaped, and half are cylinders; head diameters are of 0.15”; 0.19”; 0.23”; 0.31”; 0.39”; and 0.472”;
  6. I think he is even more retired then I am. I don't think he has anything to do with that site anymore; hasn't for years. Last I heard, ABANA kept it alive. Don't no what is going on there now, but I won't be suggesting it to anyone. It looks like a worse information source than YouTube!
  7. I know we aren't supposed to post commercial sites, but since when did that include ABANA's Ron Rel burner pages? And what the heck happened ti to them anyway; they're a total mess!
  8. Have you tried running it in the forge without the flare?
  9. "Ron Reils burner ages" are maintained on its own site by ABANA, which is why I suggested that you google it. https://ronreil.abana.org/design1.shtml
  10. Various versions of such a valve system have been around for decades. You can find one of them neatly laid out on the Ron Reil forge pages. Google them.
  11. A similar trick is commonly accomplished with a high-low valve system on the burner.
  12. pilot lights don't work on high speed burners (like most of these); their main flames blow pipot flames out. A separate tiny burner, which is turned down, will work, if it is separated far enough away from the main burner.
  13. /what you see is what you get Twenty years ago, 2” angle grinders like Proxxon’s Long Neck Angle Grinder, or the Merlin 2 from King Arthur Tools, were the only power tools that could easily make straight cuts in small burner parts; they were designed for inline motion, and had steel safety guards. A rotary tool with a safety handle mounted can now do a better job, more safely, for a small fraction of their prices. What has changed, to make this possible? See-through safety guards didn’t exist back then; they do now. When cutting along an ink or scribe line, it is tempting to bend over the tool, to provide the best view; a very bad habit, unless the tool has a safety guard; it’s also frustrating to try to see the cut adequately with steel guards. But you can place your disc beyond the cut line, and work in safety and comfort, when you can see the line by looking through the guard.
  14. Below are some examples of rotary tools that are still worth what you must pay for them, despite all the price gouging going on this year The Black and Decker RTX-6 three speed rotary tool is smaller and more ergonomic than most others, but has a 240-watt brushless motor. Most rotary tools only have 160-watt motors (Dremel’s very expensive “top of the line” models are an underwhelming 175 watts. The RTX-6 is quieter and smoother running than most of the rest, with more torque and less heat build-up than brushed motors; its speed can be switched between twelve thousand, twenty-four thousand, and thirty thousand RPM. The spindle on this tool is offset toward the housing’s bottom side, rather than centrally, providing cutoff discs better access on flat surfaces. The plastic housing is also deliberately sculpted around it neck area, to more easily accommodate holding this tool in the pen-style position for engraving, carving, and drilling work. The power switch’s sliding lever is located top and forward on the tool’s neck; it has an especially smooth action (most of them are stiff). This tool’s spindle lock should be handled carefully; if you break it, the tool must be sent to Black and Decker for repair (have fun with that). Look around for the best prices (usually on Amazon.com) for this tool; there’s some spread. While these are high quality tools in general, their speed control circuits are vulnerable; don’t employ them unless you like buying the same tool frequently. Why would the speed control burn out so easily on high quality equipment? Because the RTX-6 draws more amps than weaker tools, so there is more energy available to fry that poor defenseless little circuit. But brushless motors have less heat build-up in the first place, right? That is a separate issue from over stressing a speed control circuit; it is no more a part of the motor than the power switch is. Be sure that the external speed controller you choose really is meant for brushless motors. Why put up with the need to deal with a brushless speed controller? This tool is more powerful than the rest of the pack precisely because of what kind of motor it has; also, BLDC motors last longer than brushed motors, and don’t need to have carbon brushes replaced. So, are brushless motors really all that superior? The best (as in big $$$) battery operated rotary tools are now coming out with brushless motors, to help solve their infamous lack of power. Chicago Electric markets a low-priced rotary tool (model #68696) with a few accessories (that don’ t get kindly reviews); it’s louder than I like, and larger than the Black and Decker; it only produces average torque, with variable speeds from 8,000 to 35,000 RPM from its 160-watt brushed motor. This is a generous speed range in the low end, which is important for micro drilling. My tool has held up pretty well, with occasional use; some of them don’t. Heavy vibration is typical in this tool; they are sold through Harbor Freight Tools stores, and online. The power switch is a rocker type, located on the bottom rear of its housing, in the pistol grip. You can sand down the rear section of its plastic collar, where it surrounds the rocker switch. No doubt its collar helps physically support it, and is also meant to help prevent the switch from being accidentally turned on (if the tool is laid down on table clutter); but it interferes with smooth stops, which are desirable for safe surface cutting operations. If the plastic collar’s top is sanded or filed away on a slope, starting from its center, and increasing toward the rear of the switch (its “off” side), the collar can still mostly serve its function. But there will be far less interference to quick stops, using the fourth finger. You are marginally increasing the risk of accidentally turning the tool on, for added speed in emergency stops, with reduced risk of jarring a running tool, at a critical moment during surface cutting operations. The tiny risk is further reduced by the plastic body’s shape; the pistol grip tends to force the tool onto one side or the other; further sheltering the switch. Harbor Freight Tools has an excellent return policy, which altering the tool will void; make sure your tool isn’t a lemon before touching that collar. If the speed control circuit on one of the best rotary tool is its Achilles heel, how long would you expect this one to last? Employ a router speed controller, or leave the tool on its maximum setting. So, why not discuss other cheap rotary tools? Harbor Freight’s return policy and numerous physical stores to take a reject back to is why. A drop shipper is likely to have nothing more than an ad site on the Net, and behave like a black hole, when you have a complaint. Why not give up endless shopping and “just buy a Dremel”? Well, the oldest models still available in the Dremel lineup (their #100 and #200) still mostly get excellent reviews; the others? Not so much; compare their prices versus the amount of critical costumer reviews, and Harbor Freight starts looking like a lot better deal than you might have thought. Dremel became famous for the solid quality of their rotary tools, back when grandpa was a kid. On the other hand, their accessories are still first rate. Am I saying that Dremel power tools are no good? No; I’m suggesting that you forget blind brand loyalty; this isn’t your grandad’s world. I despise the Black and Decker brand, and have still bought three of their RTX rotary tools, starting with an RTX-3; my third is an RTX-6; personal animosity hasn’t prevented careful consideration of their products. Why three of them, if they’re so great? I burned out the speed control circuit on the first one, and having no clue about what went wrong, or how to fix it, threw the tool away. The second is still running fine, and the third one is pure tool greed. Keep reading costumer reviews, and forget brand names; they’re increasingly irrelevant. Do we all wish this wasn’t so? Sure, but it is; so, deal. The Dremel #100 single-speed, and #200 two-speed rotary tools both have a 108 watt (.9 amp) brushed motor: this is a plus for cutting small air openings in burners. This is the weakest motor in the smallest package you can find in a high-quality rotary tool. The #100 and #200 are the oldest models left in Dremel’s product line; they have stayed popular this long because of their dependability; they are lighter, and smaller than other rotary tools (making them easier to grip and use). The #100 runs at 35,000 RPM, but becomes variable speed when plugged into a router speed controller. The #200 has two speeds; 15,000 and 35,000 RPM. Dremel’s product manual states that “use of an external speed control will damage variable/two speed electronics.” No problem; just buy a #100. If you already have a #200, remember that the only difference between them is their control witches, which are low priced, interchangeable, and plug in (not soldered in place); you can buy either switch online, and change them back and forth at your convenience. These tools have plenty of air vents that are properly positioned; their prices are high ($50 for the #200, and $40 for the #100. But the percentage of critical reviews is very low. On/off and high/low speeds are controlled by a single switch near the tool’s rear on the #200; with an on/off switch located in the same place on the #100. Most people find this convenient. I like more safety when cutting, but this is a weak enough tool to overlook that shortcoming; especially if you only mount the thicker 15/16” Dremel #420 discs (safest), or standard 1-1/4” fiberglass reinforced cutoff discs (acceptable) for surface cutting. The #100 and #200 are available through Amazon.com. The #200 is also available at Homedepot, Lowe’s, and Ace hardware stores. Unlike the bulk of rotary tools, both of these have parts available online; even the armature. You will also find diagrams, and repair videos for them online; the other reason people put up with sticker shock. Thread size for the plastic housing cap on most rotary tool’s plastic bodies, match up with Dremel’s. You can change flexible drives and other attachments between most of them. Collet nuts can be a different story. Most rotary tools have interchangeable collet nuts. Spindles on the #100 and #200 models are smaller, so collet nuts from other rotary tools, will not fit them, and some threaded accessories, like their fan will fit these, but don’t fit other tools. Yet, their variable chuck will fit on most other spindles’ but not these (go figure). For fine detail work, these two rotary tools are very hard to beat. Adding a handle will not improve safety much on these tools, because the switch type and location make the practice of stopping a cutting disc, before removing it from the kerf, impractical; with or without a handle. Mounting a handle will still improve stability while you are cutting, and therefore, the quality of your work.
  15. If you're using Kast-O-lite refractory, the main reason for slow heat buildup is slow steam production while firing the cast refractory layer. A small hole in the steel shell (bottom center) takes care of that. Also, how fast the forge heats up can be controlled by how high you turn the gas up on its burner. If you're using some other refractory, all bets are off.
  16. a couple of questions should I apply the ITC 100 before or after putting it in the oven? After. You do know that you can just heat it up with the burner, right? also I am planning on not making doors and using fire bricks to block my openings. Will hard fire bricks be sufficient or is there something else I should look for? The main thing is to remember to use the ITC-100 on the side of the bricks facing into the inside of the forge.
  17. Layout Tools and Techniques Side air entrances on high-speed tube burners should consist of three equally spaced rectangular openings cut into their mixing tubes. Each opening has two longitudinal sides, so you will need six equally spaced lines for three air openings. Hex head bolts can be found down at your local hardware store, with the right size to match up with your pipe or tube’s outside diameter. A buildup of electrical tape allows the bolt to be centered snugly within the cylinder. ½” by ½” metal angle can be purchased from online metal providers, becoming perfect layout tools to extend ink dots at cylinder’s end (next to the bolt’s hex points), into perfect longitudinal lines. Sliding choke sleeves become layout tools for the circular lines at the forward and rear edges of the air entrances. While ink lines are sufficient for those who are practiced at surface cutting into cylindrical surfaces, small drilled holes just inside of each inside corner helps to keep your cutting work tidy. Scribe lines are better than inked lines, and bluing improves the view of scribed lines on stainless steel surfaces, even more. How much care you want to put into the layout is up to you, but I recommend at least drilling holes next to the inside corners, as starting and stopping points, even after you get to feeling comfortable with this task. I’ve been making this burner design for more than twenty years, and they still help me. Getting those holes placed where you want them, starts with your choice of punch. Larger drill bits require center punches, but even then, the center punch follows a single blow from a prick punch, if you want accuracy. Never use more than a single blow with either type of punch, as their very hard points may shatter, if more than one blow is delivered. A single blow from a center punch can safely follow a single blow from a prick punch, only because of their differing point geometry. The micro holes in small burners only need a prick punch, but you still have choices to make. First, what kind of punch: manual or automatic? Automatic punches are easiest to place and keep exactly where you want them, while indenting a point for your drill bit. Unfortunately, no matter how much you’re prepared to pay for them, you can’t buy a reliable automatic punch; great idea, but poor follow through. If you pay for the best manual punch you can buy, and if you treat it carefully (single blows only), it will perform reliably; that’s as good as things get. The difference between a center punch and a prick punch isn’t a matter of size. Center punches have ninety-degree points. Prick punches have sixty-degree points. Which brings us right back to size. The smaller your punch the better, because the smaller the punch the easier it is to see where its point is resting. A Starrett 816A prick punch (4" long, with a 5/64" base diameter on its tapered point) is more than adequate for this work.
  18. She's the one who enqouraged me to laugh a lot; no hope there.
  19. It's certainly no issue for me, if it isn't for her/him; that ship, with all it baggage, sailed long ago As to how he/her will get an adequate flame...there is still interest here, if there is interest there. Otherwise, have you heard any good jokes lately?
  20. He's not out of the woods just yet. That is a heavily reducing flame. I assume that the burner is average, which means that it needs some secondary air coming in through the burner opening to complete combustion. Alas, someone welded the burner into the forge. His best move now would be to grind some flat spots in the weld bead, and drill holes through them, until that flame changes from blue-green to straight blue. Why must the secondary air come into the forge round the burner? Because the burner's flame provides induction to draw that air in with.
  21. If in doubt, remember that tungsten carbide is not magnetic; steel is. Tungsten steel burrs also come with brazed heads; a complete waste of your money.
  22. TIG nozzles break apart in moments, when in contact with these flames.
  23. Well, now I get to eat these words. It turns out that tungsten steel is better than high speed steel for micro drill bits and rotary burrs. Tungsten Steel: Ads that start out claiming their single or double cut burrs to be tungsten carbide, and then shift to describing them as “tungsten steel” are actually selling something better high speed steel burrs; they are aren’t as good as tungsten carbide on stainless steel parts. Unlike high speed steel, tungsten steel will keep its temper up to 932 F; not as good as cobalt’s red hardness, but not bad. Solid tungsten carbide rotary burrs only come in 1/8” diameter cutting surfaces. Larger diameter cutting surfaces are only available with brazed heads on steel shanks; these often have run-out. You can get solid tungsten steel burrs with head sections larger than 1/8” diameter; making an end run around run-out problems. Tungsten steel is also tougher than high speed steel. All things considered, they are worthwhile, if for from wonderful. That was meant to read "...if far from wonderful."
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