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I Forge Iron

Mikey98118

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Everything posted by Mikey98118

  1. Burner sizes These burners are rated in “nominal” water pipe sizes, because most burners are built from pipe; this is always listed by smaller nominal sizes than their actual diameters, because long ago pipe’s outside diameters where standardized, so that parts from one manufacturer would fit another manufacturer’s fittings. But pipe walls in those days consisted of brass, which is far weaker than mild steel, so their outside diameters were oversize so that the pipes could carry their rated amount of liquid or gas, with the aid of thicker walls. Gradually, as material strength improved,
  2. All I see, that gives pause, is that the vertical section of pipe is much shorter than usual; this causes the horizontal section of pipe to be much closer to the heating forge top than it should be. This is an easy fix
  3. We were speaking about safety issues, when cutting with right angle grinders. Half the problem is too much torque. The other half of the problem is overlarge cutting discs. you can buy a conversion chuck that allows 4-1/2” angle grinders to spin ¼” mandrels, and have the equivalent of a die grinder to work with. Suddenly all the accessories for die grinders will be open for your use, including 1-1/2” friction cutoff discs.A fan speed controller, or router speed controller can do a lot to reduce the torque, and conversion chucks (regular Jacobs keyed chucks that screw right onto 5/8-11threads f
  4. No; that is not a "T" burner!!! It is an amalgamation of every design flaw I can imagine! In fact, this 'design' looks to me like a deliberate cruel joke.
  5. Your thinking is pretty much cutting edge, BUT something I did not see mentioned was deceleration. This creates a huge hole in your mental picture. As soon as combustion gases leave the flame envelope (good), or envelopes (not desirable). they start decelerating. Small flames slow down much faster than large flames. So, distance from flame to exhaust opening is only half of the oicture...can you say ribbon burner?
  6. I liked the way you put that. Good luck was all that kept me out of that situation many times, when I was young, and even dumber than now.
  7. I always felt exhilarated when welding up high; never while getting there, or when coming back down; kind of odd, that...
  8. Safety is like gambling. There is no such thing as a sure bet; only smart bets...and dumb bets.
  9. The Pass-through Even in sword making, only about 6” at a time can be worked. For wrought iron twisting, only short sections are twisted in a given direction. For long twists, cold forming at low RPM produces much more uniform twists. So, even long parts can be heated in relatively short forges, if they have a pass-through; that is a small opening in the rear wall of a box forge, or the far end of a tunnel, “D”, or oval forge. Anything from an insulated hinged flap, to a mere brick can block this opening, when not in use.
  10. The only grinder injury I ever had was from a 9" wheel on an old solid aluminum Milwaukee angle grinder. I was 12 years old. Still have the scar on my little finger. Didn't even feel it cut right to the bone. Never forgot the lesson. Oddly enough, I find smaller tools, like die grinders and rotary tools are more inclined to give kickback incidents; just as well though. I wouldn't want kickback from a large angle grinder.
  11. Yes, diamond coated cutoff discs are nice. BUT you need to be aware that,when they catch in the kerf, they can't shatter, releasing the tool, instead of causing the tool to be flung about. How serious the situation can get depends on how deep you are in the cut, and the torque times speed of the tool, times disc diameter...all of which have been decided before hand; not during the incident. At this point, probably the only thing left to be thankful for, is that the disc doesn't have teeth--like a saw blade... Please understand that I'm a big fan of diamond coated accessories. But I'm an e
  12. I hope that section grows and grows. Back in my younger days, the wise old hands on the job were expected to educate novices. But there are way too many people being introduced to serious power tools outside of steel shop settings--this is NOT good!!!
  13. I feel that YOU will probably do just fine with your arrangement; that doesn't mean the next guy will do the job exactly the way you did, or place his burner as for from the impingement point, or use Morgan K 26 bricks under it. If your methods become the next "obvious path," and lots of guys tread it...good. But it takes lots of successful builds before enough voices speak up, and keep people on that path. Welcome to the way things are
  14. AFB, I never heard it put better. Now, the moderators need to make sure that list of grinder dos and don'ts stick around permanently.
  15. I hardily agree! Okay, okay, I really like the pooch too (don't tell my cat; he just wouldn't understand)
  16. I don't know whether it will or not, and am not inclined to suggest something without that knowledge. I haven't even heard of a Satanite and bubble alumina wash before, and had assumed it was something you were mixing up yourself. It sounds like a fine idea--generally--but when it come to the impact point of flame impingement...I get all conservative, having spent twenty years seeing just how hot I can make that spot
  17. No; to be perfectly honest, I had not even consider the position you contemplate (green line). So long as your flame face is sufficient, I would consider it an excellent plan. Normally, I would suggest a slight change in direction, so the the flame impinged on the floor, but normally" the floor would have a high alumina kiln shelf do withstand impingement, or Kast-O-lite 30 layer over that brick, which I suggest, but it's up to you. Glenn sells small bags of Kast-O-lite 30 for moments like this. I would hate for all that expensive work you're doing fall apart.
  18. That is very hot for having a wide open space at the near end. You has arrived! All that is left is efficiency; as in $$$. It is time to use a baffle wall near the open end of your forge, and start saving lots of $$$.
  19. So far as I'm concerned you have the correct attitude. So long as it doesn't completely stop you, that fear is GOOD! Remember the childhood joke about Trickery Dee? He's an angle grinder
  20. Using 120V Angle grinders for building burners When I wrote Gas Burner for Forges, Furnaces, and Kilns, hand held rotary tools were no longer expensive, but that wasn’t yet true of their accessories. The “newfangled” 4-1/2” angle grinders of the day, were really just re-geared 4” grinders being marketed because their grinding wheels were far less expensive than the new 4” wheels. At the time, these grinders were a little under powered, which made them a lot safer for cutting work than the high-power models being pushed in today’s market. Also, the that text’s smallest burner wa
  21. One of the tools I ran across is called a conversion chuck; it is a Jacobs chuck with standard grinder threads, so that it can be used on angle grinders to drill with. More interesting is that it can chuck 1/4" mandrels, allowing the whole list of die grinder accessories to be easily employed in standard angle grinders, including small diameter cutoff discs, grind stones, and drum sanders; these chucks cost about $11
  22. If you read through the Forges 101 Thread you might at least get some more concrete questions that we can answer?
  23. I think that would be a good idea. There are likely somme people just waiting to try making your burner.
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