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I Forge Iron


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    Austin, TX
  • Interests
    Metal Working, Making, and Off Roading

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  1. No orifice on the end of the copper tube injecting propane into the air line. I assummed I needed the needle valve to fine tune the amount of propane going into the air line. Is the regulator PSI more appropriate? Perhaps I should set the regulator to 10 PSI, open the needle valve all the way, and then adjust it down from there?
  2. When I refer to the plenum, it's the box that holds the refractory burner edge, not the tubing to it. My plenum is made from 16g steel bent to a box with a short 5" steel tube coming out of it to connect to the air/gas line. Connected to that, I'm using flexible 2.5" auto exhaust tubing that's about 5' long (2-2.5' too long, will cut it when I figure out a permanent stand to hold the forge). Then it connects to an air gate, and that is connected to the blower with a silicone 2.5-3" coupler made for cool air intakes for performance cars. I think you could use plastic near the blower, but I think you just have to figure out the advantages. I tried to keep mine as simple as possible.
  3. I have a 0-30 regulator with PSI gauge attached to regulator on a gauge port. Then has the gas hose, going to 1/4" quick shutoff valve, then needle valve, then 6 inch copper line feeding into air pipe which feeds the ribbon burner. The PSI I'm referring to is the gauge off the regulator.
  4. Searched around, but didn't find anything specific info on the subject. I'm about to apply Plistix to the inner face of my forge and wondering if I should apply a thin coat to the face of the ribbon burner. I don't see how it could hurt as long as it doesn't restrict the holes. Also hoping that it will keep the plenum cooler as it got pretty warm in the test firing.
  5. I'm finishing building a forge with forced air ribbon burner. I found that to get it to an appropriate heat, I need to bring regulator up to about 20 psi, so it's not a lazy flame. This allowed me to open air gate and get it moving through. I haven't applied Plistex yet, but will do so soon which should help. Once it's hot, I can bring it down some, but haven't had enough time with it to zero in on it. What does it imply that I need to go up to 20psi to get it going? I notice most guys are starting at 7-10psi, and bringing it down to 2-3. Is PSI immaterial/inaccurate since I'm running a needle valve which would affect volume passed through? Mike
  6. Finally was able to get my first firing in the forge I've been working on. It's forced air through ribbon burner. I've got a lot of tuning and learning to do on getting the flames right. But I had been working on it for a while, it got late and I had my fill of adrenaline from lighting, too much fuel, too much air, too little, etc... first fire.mov
  7. Building a forced air burner. Blower output is 3”. Tube feeding air with gas introduction is 2.5” flexible exhaust tube. I bought an air blast gate to control air flow volume and need to connect it in. And I’m not finding 2.5” flexible rubber tubing connectors to put gate in. Big box has 3” and 2”. Gonna see if auto parts stores have a 2.5 water hose I can cut 4” sections from to use. You guys have a suggestion of a suitable source of material? Blast gate doesn’t seem to have a lot of length on connectors. Also going to check the shop vac section to see if something there is suitable.
  8. Has anyone tried using a blower like this?
  9. Whoa, my bad. I was clearly ready to sleep when I wrote that. The ribbon burner is 80 1/8” Or .125” holes. No clue how I typed 1/2. Sorry about that.
  10. Yep, I thought Farb is Forced Air Ribbon Burner, versus Narb, Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner. i started the Narb route, but found it hard to get going well, mainly because I didn’t follow the couple recipes provided verbatim. I’ve taken a few months off due to the holiday and frustration. I’m hoping adding a blower to the mix, will make it more adjustable for tuning it in. My forge as I remember is about 400 cubic inches. My ribbon burner is 4x9 with 80 1/2 holes. My plan is to add the burner, change plumbing over to the common path with needle valve, air gate, and block holes as needed. I’m great with over sizing the blower. But the blowers often have cfm without static pressure information, so hence I’m looking for brand/models that have been successfully used. Thanks
  11. Can you guys share which brand/model of blower you are having good luck with for Farb? Also how are you connecting from 3” to 2” pipe? Is there a good way to reduce it?
  12. I used these which was designated by 1/4” OD tubing. I’m not understanding your second question. The MiG tips I used was 1/4-20 which you tap on the inside of the 1/8” NPT side of the 1/8” NPT x 1/4” flare fitting with 1/4” side going to gas. The top of the 3/4x1x3/4 T gets drilled and tapped 1/8” NPT which is bigger than you would expect because it’s Pipe so that’s ID. hardest part was sourcing 1/4” flare to 3/8” flare to attach to my gas. Couldn’t find the fitting at Home Depot or my local propane supplier. I found a solution at Lowe’s where I went 1/4” flare to 1/4” NPT, 1/4” NPT tp 3/8” NPT, 3/8” NPT to 3/8” flare. hopefully this helps and I didn’t misunderstand or confuse you worse.
  13. Thanks Dan. Does the tube and T really affect anything? (assuming it’s not too small and constricting flow). If the air flow drawn in is a combination of pressure and orifice size, should I need to go to a 3/4? New regulator should arrive tomorrow. Looking forward to trying a few more things.
  14. Yea, right before this project I was at a garage sale and they had half a bucket of large bolts of course where I immediately coveted them. But then that little jerk on my shoulder said.... you are going to get those, do nothing with them and trip over them in the shop for 6 months before scrapping them. Unfortunately I listened to him, and a month later I was in the fastener shop buying brand new bolts. Now I try to leave the jerk at home. Wow, that’s great Crew! I will send you a note. Yes! I love swivel vises. I think this one is from about 1926. I really like Prentiss, it’s a brand that seems pretty uncommon in TX. I have not removed the pin on this one. I tried initially and it’s wedged pretty good, but didn’t want to force it. I have a smaller one with a swivel jaw that moves very smooth and use that when I have an odd shape.
  15. Yep, I appreciate it. I didn’t have much time today, so the only thing I got done was changing to a .25 tip from the .45 tip and it behaved much better. The sound was much more what I was expecting and it was hotter. Still not right, but changing the tip definitely improved it. I noticed my regulator had a slight leak, so had to hang it up. Ordered a new one and will resume later in the week. Pic attached, but it was pretty bright out, so hard to see the flames.
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