Whiskeymike

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About Whiskeymike

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    Male
  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Interests
    Metal Working, Making, and Off Roading

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  1. Are there updated plans for Mikey’s burners or Frosty’s T burners? I noticed this thread has gone on for three years and unclear if there is an “official” update.
  2. Thanks guys. I was hoping with the forced air going through it, it wouldn’t be that hot.
  3. I’d like some advice on the most versatile gas forge shape for doing artwork. I generally don’t do knives and focus on things that are more flat and large as a foot print. For example, I’m taking saw blades 7-11” and drawing it into a bowl with a swage block or cupping tool. So it might start 10”-10” by 1/4”, but after forging it becomes 6’’x6”x4”. Other pieces are things like masks I’ve read the burner and forge threads. I’m trying to heed Mikey and Frosty’s advice of building the smallest forge that will work. I’m currently using coal forge and OA torch, but would like to use a ‘So far, the design that essential craftsman uses for his forge with forced air ribbon burners seems like the ideal fit. If there are ways to put larger items in a smaller forge, would love to hear ideas.
  4. Pine ridge covers the size of the chamber in their FAQ. https://www.pineridgeburner.com/faq
  5. Does the burner get that hot that it would affect the metal? I have cnc plasma and could cut all of the holes and shape. It could be welded Together to be air tight. I’m not against refractory, just trying to understand how it works.
  6. Do you happen to have access to a good pressure washer? Good defined as 2.7 gallons per minute or more. 3 gpm or more is better. If so, Northern tool and others have a sand blasting add on that attaches and uses regular sand. It can be done in the grass and as long as it doesn’t have bad toxic coatings, it’s pretty safe. You can also use a pressure washer with a degreaser and this may be plenty if you don’t have rust or scale to remove. as mentioned, outsourcing it to someone is a great path. If you find a powder coater that will work with you, they sandblast the parts as part of the process. You’ll be amazed at the colors and finishes available. It can be surprisingly economical (you might find someone to do the elephant for $50-$75, especially if you are flexible so they fit it in when there is excess room in the oven.. It’s also very durable for outside use.(3-7 years of rust/UV protection) Might be a bit tricky doing it with the wire, but if you can rattle an it, you can powder coat it. best of luck.
  7. Let's see your Oxy Acetylene Torch Holder/Gas Saver Stands. I'm about to build a stand to hold my torch and gas saver and looking for ideas. What do people use to hold the torch? I'd prefer to not clamp it in my leg vice.
  8. I'm brand new to heat treating, so my knowledge comes from the dozen articles/posts I've read over the past few days. (so very little, and I'm still in that zone of confusion and not knowing what's accurate and internet conjecture). So the comment of temperature and timing was off the top of my head from one of the articles I read, but isn't particular to the metal I'm working with. I understood from reading that each metal will have a different temperature and timing and it will be different for normalizing versus quenching, etc.. But as you mention, perhaps an hour or two is the appropriate time line and doesn't need to be timed to the minute. It may be a detriment to myself, but when getting into something new, I do an extensive amount of reading and then pick the project to implement on. That process seems to conjure up tons of questions in the process. Sometimes it works really well as I recognize issues before they occur. In other situations, I find that I've over complicated it and if I just did it following a simple one page guide that I would have been further along in the process of learning. I appreciate the guidance guys. I'll give it a shot on a few pieces and see what happens.
  9. Well, I guess I have two concerns. 1. is the time that it takes to get there. So if you have heat it to 500 degrees for 8 hours and you place the piece into a 500 degree oven, it will take some time to also get to 500 degrees. So I'm trying to figure out if you need to calculate this or measure it's temperature or something to accurately heat it for 8 hours. Secondly, it might have been a brain fart, but I was thinking that just because your oven is at 500 degrees, the steak inside the oven is not. I guess this is due to moisture, etc.. and may not be applicable to steel, but trying to figure out if the steel is automatically at 500 degrees because the oven is 500 degrees. Yep, exactly. Was just wondering how smiths deal with this and how they determine when it's the same. On the optical pyrometer, I have one. I think it maxes out at 800 degrees or so. Is there a trick to determining it after the upper limits of an OP is reached without spending a fortune? Perhaps i'm thinking about this too much before I get in to it.
  10. I'm wondering how the temperature of the oven relates to the material temperature and if they are always the same once the right amount of time has past. So for instance, if you need to heat treat steel at 500 degrees for 8 hours, you set your oven to 500 degrees - 1. Is there a rule of thumb of how long it will take the steel to come to 500 degrees? 2. If the steel was in the oven when you started the oven to rise to 500 degrees, when the oven hits 500 degrees, does that mean for relative certainty that the steel is also at 500 degrees? Or by scientific principles, will the oven not hit 500 degrees until the steel hits 500 degrees as it's effectively cooling the oven air by being heated? I'm thinking of using a ceramic/glass kiln to heat treat/temper steel since I already have it. But wondering if any of the above has to be taken into account when doing these actions.
  11. Perhaps this is a modern invention with no roots to the past. I found this when searching - But I don't see any ratchet. It seems to be a pin in his hand that just inserts to stop the wheel. it also looks like something made from previous parts, but not in the pioneer period. I assumed there was similar mechanisms used in fireplaces, but perhaps they were all trammel hooks or a form of it.
  12. I'm looking to make a gaucho/wagon wheel grill where you raise/lower the grill from the fire and wondering if anyone has seen blacksmithing designs for the ratcheting portion. It would be similar to these parts, but I'd like to stay fairly authentic. So if someone know of a 1800's/early 1900's reference material to such a thing, I'd appreciate a pointer.
  13. Another one. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/paleoplanet69529/making-bolsters-from-plumbing-caps-pic-heavy-t22661.html.
  14. Thanks for the suggestions. The full tang with scales is a good idea for hand tools. Although the items I have in mind are about a 3-4 foot reach. In some cases, it’s to give reach in 4x4 raised boxes, without a lot of repositioning the chair. In other cases, it’s to reach the ground from the chair. In all cases, the head needs to be much lighter and smaller to reduce fatigue. Handle will be thinner and lighter as well. the search term suggested helped a lot. It provided some good examples to study. I’ll keep looking. One of them had a 4-5” tang, and the handle was split with a notch that the tang slid into and was bolted with two bolts. Although it seems like notching the handle might weaken it, but perhaps the tang deals with the leverage applied. Found this great walkthrough on making a ferrule. http://taigoostudio.blogspot.com/2012/06/how-to-forging-fabricating-and-fitting.html maybe some tweaks would make it work for what I’m doing.