pnut

I don't know a lot about presses when it comes to blacksmithing but if 12 tons is adequate this looks like a good press for a hobby shop. 120v 20amp iirc, so no special wiring. Sounds like a good solution for the hobbyist who had the cash and wants a press. Provided 12 tons is enough squish to do what you want. Looks faster than a log splitter by a sight. Wish I could afford one and had somewhere to put it. Pnut

They were posted in the tailgating section. I remember getting the notification about the upsetters. posts in the tailgating section are removed after a month or two so you have to periodically check on what you've posted. Pnut

There's a steel supplier near me that has a pretty good selection of tool steels. I'm trying not to use too many different steels. When things start turning out like I want more often than not using the mild,10xx, spring clips and the leaf springs I have I'll start using other alloys. Until then I'm going to stick to the few types I've been using but when it comes to small reference pieces I'll get them any time I have the opportunity. Pnut

That would be a quick way to build a varied collection of samples. Good idea. I haven't come across any or used 0-1yet but I'll remember it for when I do. Pnut

I tried to radius the edges on a piece of H-13 and it didn't make sparks. I was surprised. I shouldn't say it didn't make any sparks but it didn't make many sparks would be more accurate. I didn't really get too far grinding it either. It seemed awfully hard. I'm trying to build my collection of reference samples but I just started. When I get new known steels I always cut a piece off and label it for future comparison. Pnut

That's what I read also, but I'm trying to get better at estimating carbon content by the sparks. Pnut

I hope the membership living in areas affected by the wildfires ravaging parts of Australia find themselves, their families, and property safe. My heart goes out to those who have not been as lucky and my thoughts and prayers are with you. Try to stay safe and keep us posted. Pnut

Nice, I don't do any sheet metal work yet but I may in the future so I'll keep that in mind. I've been thinking about a draw knife but I have a small piece of leaf spring that would be pretty easy to cut to shape and finish up everything else except final grinding on the anvil. Maybe I'll do both, who knows. Pnut

That's what I plan on doing with at least one. Thinking about a hand held fuller for another and maybe a little tomohawk. Thomas, the sparks lead me to believe it's in the high end of the medium carbon range. Longer sparks, more branched , and more erupting sparks than a piece of 1045 but not as much as the piece of 1084 I compared it to. I'm not very experienced in spark testing so I make sure to compare it to known steel but my collection of reference pieces is still pretty small. Pnut

Kraitok, except for heat treating you can't work more than about six inches of hot steel. So you could potentially forge a claymore in a 300 ci. forge so long as there's a pass through for the stock to stick out of the end of the forge. If you're heating up more stock than you can work before it loses it's heat you're just causing excessive decarburization when using high carbon steel. A well built and tuned T-burner will heat a well insulated forge with a 300- 350 ci inner volume to welding heat. Pnut

No you don't need to apply rigidizer to the fiberboard. To be honest I haven't used a gas forge enough to say which is better. Fiberboard would be easier to reline the forge when the time comes. You need to also apply a castable refractory to the blanket because it's fragile. The fiberboard would benefit from a layer of castable refractory also but I don't think it's as important because it's not as fragile as the blanket but it is fragile. You need to put a coat of plistix on it though. You also have to use plistix or something similar on the blanket after it's rigidized and the castable is applied. The closest to ready to use out of the box is the Diamondback forge with the fiberboard lining. Pnut

A set of double bowl or jar bellows gets my vote. Pnut

Aus, It looks like you have a rusty wonderland in the background. Pnut

That is the series one forge. On the diamondback forge website they are selling series three forges. I checked the prices before I posted them. The series three catalog was the first result when I just looked again. I believe you are looking at an out of date page. They may still have the series one forges for sale. Send them an email or call and find out. The difference seems to be how they are lined. The new series uses ceramic fiberboard instead of ceramic blanket. Pnut Pnut

The diamondback single burner knife forge is just over $350. The two burner forge is the one I've been considering and it costs $440. Devil forges aren't ready to go out of the box. Look up some reviews in the gas forge section they've both been discussed pretty thoroughly. Pnut

The Blacksmith and Bladesmith models from Diamondbackforge look to be pretty simple to reline. They use insulating fiberboard. Pnut

The local steel supplier here sells remnants for not much more than scrap prices, about thirty cents a pound for most steel considered medium carbon and below. I don't blame you for not wanting to pay new prices. I've heard of people using axle shafts from trucks as anvils for PH's. Pnut

I wouldn't pass up a free forge. You could pass it on to another begginer smith to help them get started if nothing else. I've heard good things about the construction and performance of diamondback forges. Pnut

Maybe try a heavy equipment repair shop. I know dozers, backhoes,cranes and such have large counterweights. Steel supply yard or maybe a fabrication shop that could order the steel from the supplier they use. I'm sure that there will be some other suggestions by others soon that will probably be much better than those I've offered. Good luck. Pnut

A little steel I got from a generous RR maintenance crew that was staying at the hotel I work at. A few spring clips and spikes are new stock. These were the same guys that cut a thirty inch piece of rail and gave it to me last winter. I go out of my way to make sure I bring them something whenever they stay. They gave me the spring clips back in the summer. I didn't even have to ask, they came and found me. Pnut

Well done. Excellent leather work too. Pnut

Those look like the mill rollers that were used at the rubber refinery I used to work at. Pnut

Mr Griffin, I do believe we have a winner. Pnut

Be careful hitting cold metal on your anvil. I don't think I would use it for anything but hot work. I'm sure working cold metal on a new anvil would void any warranty it might have. Nothing wrong with more than one forge but didn't you say you have a three burner devil forge? Use insulating firebrick to block off part of the interior and only use as many burner's as needed. Spending another five hundred dollars this early on is kinda crazy after buying a three burner forge. Build a simple jabod forge if you want a smaller fire. Pnut

Bubbadreir, I believe what you have is light rail maybe from a spur line, mine, or possibly a crane as it indeed looks smaller. I'll try to take a pic of the cap on my rail anvil with a tape measure on it. The rail I have is main line rail weighing 139lbs/yd. If I remember what the guy from the maintenance crew told me correctly. The cap is the part the wheel rides on. It's in the teens outside so I may not go to the forge for a couple days but I'll try to remember to snap a pic when I do go. Pnut