pnut

I forgot to quote the part I was asking about so once again, isn't this what is known as a sweating heat? When I was little there was a smith near my stepdads family's farm that I used to love to watch and that was the term I heard him tell his son to heat a piece to for forge welding. At the time I thought he said a "sweaty" heat because of how hot it was in the shop while they had the blower going to get the fire up to forge welding temp, but after much reading and actually picking up a hammer and doing some forge welding I think what he said was a "sweating heat". Isn't this an older term used to describe the runny look that the steel gets at forge welding temp? Pnut

Isn't this what is known as a sweating heat? Pnut

I think you're correct. If you don't increase the air outlet pipe I think you would have to pump very slowly or risk blowing the coal out of the firepot. Especially if using charcoal. It's a balancing act between air volume and air pressure. Pnut

There's some threads about it in the press section. I think the consensus is that the stroke and return is too slow even with a spring assisting in either direction. I haven't read them in a while so I would look them up. I may not be remembering all the details correctly. Pnut

Welcome aboard. I used to live in Clarksville. It was one of my favorite places that I've ever lived. There's another member somewhere in town. Good luck and remember it's supposed to be fun. Pnut

You'd get a lot better feel for how well it would move metal if you could find video of it or something similar in action. It looks like it would be great for freeing up a hand for holding a tool but like you I'm wondering how well it would do with things like drawing out. Hopefully someone will chime in with some first hand knowledge. Pnut

Would a regular fire be too much smoke? You can always build a fire and scoop hot coals from the fire to the forge. If that's too smoky you'd probably be better off going to your secondary location to make charcoal in large batches. I don't know how much smoke comes from a large indirect retort that recirculates the combustion gases to help heat the wood. When I make small batches using a small barrel in a larger barrel it's pretty smoky for about an hour or so until all the steam stops and thick white smoke stops coming out and I seal it up. There's still a little smoke from the fire that is in the larger barrel but not anywhere near the amount that comes out of the smaller barrel that holds the wood to be pyrolized in the beginning. I think if you have somewhere you can go to make large batches that would be what I would do. Good luck and post some pics of the process if you decide to make a large kiln or retort. I think folks would be interested. Pnut

You need to burn the rag because mineral spirits on a rag can spontaneously combust in a trash can corner or wherever it ends up due to exothermic oxidation. Many shops/houses and lives have been lost due to throwing a rag with mineral spirits in a trash can like any other garbage. DO NOT throw a rag with mineral spirits on it away. The only safe way to dispose of it is to burn it. There's other ways but why risk it. You're 15 and your family thinks you are responsible enough to have a forge and take up blacksmithing so please don't make them regret it. SAFETY FIRST ALWAYS!!! Pnut

I didn't ask what types of things you are going to be making. If it's large projects that require a striker you may be better off with a two hundred pound piece of steel. If you're making small things I might just go ahead and get the 70# anvil or maybe save up for a little longer and get an anvil in the 120# range. Tough decision. Pnut

Clear coating a hammer handle will cause blisters. I sand all the coatings off of my store bought hammer handles and just give them a wipe with boiled linseed oil. After a while they will get a nice hand worn finish especially where you hold them. Every handle I've ever used that had a shiny finish be it a shovel, axe, tobacco knife, hoe, or framing hammer rubbed blisters on my hands after using them for a while, especially when I'd start sweating. As far as making a hammer I don't think that's a beginner project by any means. Punching or slitting and drifting a hole In a piece of stock the size suitable for a general blacksmithing hammer is no easy task, especially if you're doing it alone without a power or treadle hammer or press. Without a power hammer or press you will need a striker to swing a sledgehammer while you hold the punch or slitter. You need hammer tongs too. A two or three pound piece of orange hot steel is nothing to take lightly. If you drop it it's not going to stop burning whatever you drop it on until you pick it back up. Be safe and start with some projects you can be successful at. It's much more fun than failing and getting frustrated and angry. You can find some beginner projects and some downloadable PDFs like the ABANA controlled hand forging curriculum at the ABANA website and there's a lot of PDFs at Bamsite. Start with things that will build your confidence by being successful versus starting with projects beyond your skill level that will only frustrate you by being unsuccessful. We want you to succeed. I've been forging for about a year and this is the same advice I was given and I'm glad I listened. Good luck and remember this is supposed to be fun. Pnut

Have you tried looking for a big piece of scrap steel? You can make a portable hole for hardy tooling. A log with a hole lined with square tubing will work for a hardy hole. I use a piece of vertical rail and I don't mind using it. It's 115 lbs though so maybe that's why it seems ok. The difference between a big hunk of steel and an anvil is the anvil will have a hardened face but I don't know if the difference in the amount of steel in the 200 lb piece would make up for it not having a hardened face. Let the debate begin! Pnut

No real use discussing it further. He said he'd RATHER scrap it than sell it to someone here. Pnut

Definitely start with a cheap hammer. Look at flea markets and pawn shops for a two pound ball pien hammer or as buzzkill said a cheap harbor freight cross pien is about six or eight bucks. The steel doesn't care how much your hammer costs and you won't notice the difference between a hundred dollar hammer and a two dollar one when you're just getting started. There's no need to spend a bunch of money on a hobby that you may not stick with. I'm not implying you're going to quit but many people like the idea of blacksmithing more than actually swinging a hammer. It's hard work and a lot of people decide it's not for them. Before you spend any money on equipment if possible you should try to attend a meeting with your local blacksmithing group or see if there's any introductory classes near you. That way you can get a taste of smithing without having to spend a bunch of money and if you find you don't like it you won't have wastes any money on tools and a forge. Pnut

Start with air, after it's cool see if it skates a file. If it does clamp it in the vise cover with a rag and give it a whack with a hammer to break it. Examine for excessive grain growth. Then repeat the process with warm oil and finally brine. I don't have any pictures of the difference in grain sizes to post to show you what good looks like but I bet if you check the HT section you'll find some and I know you'll find better instructions. Pnut If it skates a file after air hardening or oil quenching there's a good possibility it will crack during a brine quench.

Try progressively faster quenchants along with the spark test. Then you'll have a good idea of how to go about the HT. Pnut

The last I seen I think they were being sold for about two hundred dollars or so. If I could afford it I would maybe get one but I don't think I'd want to risk much more than a couple hundred dollars on it. As far as compact goes the anvil would definitely be easier to move than the piece of rail I have. Its 115 pounds I only weigh about 25 pounds more than the piece of rail. It would be a lot easier moving that little anvil. Pnut

Please exit through the gift shop. Pnut Oh yeah I prefer an ascot

This is the plate I use. It just so happens to be sitting near me. I also use it when I figure things out with clay as an anvil. Pnut

Caveat means a warning or stipulation. Emptor is Latin for user iirc. Caveat emptor means buyer beware. They were making jokes. Puns and word play are enjoyed by some of the members almost as much as blacksmithing. Pnut

Google define caveat if you don't know what it means and you should get a result. Friday is also iforgeiron vocabulary day. The test usually is on Tuesday afternoon. Just kidding so is Thomas and Frosty but you really should look it up. Pnut

I don't have any first hand knowledge but Iirc a review I read here stated they have had some quality control problems. Some softer than they should be and voids in the casting after the paint was stripped but I think that's to be expected for the price. I also use a rail anvil. When cutting or punching I place a log of the same height as the rail next to it that has a chain hold down to secure the cold end of the stock while the end to be punched or cut is on the rail. I also have a 6x6x2 inch piece of plate mounted flat on the top of a railway tie or sleeper as I think they're called in the UK to use for splitting and chiseling. Pnut

It doesn't say made in USA just True Temper USA. Would that make a difference? Pnut

Thanks Steve, that's a pretty elegant solution. Pnut

I thought it was Bader, but wasn't sure enough to say. I had no idea what model though so thought it best to not offer a guess. Pnut

Don't know about what grinder they use but they use Majestic Forge three burner forges. You could probably Google equipment brands on forged in fire or something similar maybe even what grinder is used on forged in fire. Steve, does it use chilled water or something like engine coolant? Pnut