North State

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    New Bern, North Carolina

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  1. Ok Irondragon, I had never thought of a Bondo squeegie! I will give it a try! Thanks!
  2. Right! I will post pics once I go ahead and get and apply the rigidizer. Meanwhile, I will ponder on how to apply the castible. I want it to look as clean, sharp and smooth as possible, but i realize that pouring it will be practically impossible.
  3. Sorry about the link not being allowed. not only do i have to learn how NOT to build a forge, I am learning a considerable bit on how NOT to post on a forum! Moderators, please forgive my ignorance. I truly dont mean to cause you heartburn.
  4. AMEN Pnut! When I typed -philic and got search results for -phobic it didnt make sense to me either. I knew the -phobic properties... anyhow. I got this from the consolidated notes: Ridigizer: I bought fumed silica on Amazon and made my own using Jasen’s recipe. "...used a cup of fumed silica in a pint of water. Idk if it's proper amount but it worked very well on my forge." Add a drop of food coloring so you can see the rigidizer and ensure coverage. Per Frosty: It’s is critical that you butter the wool by spritzing it with water prior to applying the rigidizer. Do this for both layers. The rigidizer should run between layers and bond them together somewhat after the second firing. Are the "Fumed Silica" and the "Colloidal Silica" the same? and How much does it matter? Sorry if this has been addressed already. I found this link and we have a West Marine right here in New Bern, NC. link removed per TOS Wow! What a long URL! Just for the information of the forum... I found this somewhat overwhelming, but ultimately useful:
  5. Frosty, Irondragon, Mikey, and others, Thanks so much for the patience. I am sure there is a considerable bit of ignorant stubbornness with us newbies, but its mostly information overload for me. SO MUCH GREAT INFORMATION! Being as green and ambitious as I am, I find it difficult to retain all that I am reading. I sure wish I lived near you experienced blacksmiths so I could have a better look at the concepts you talk about on IFI. Anyhow, thanks again. I will try to wrap my head around the ideas you're throwing out. Thanks again!
  6. Pnut, i saw where you called it hydrophILIC, but when I searched it, -phobic came up.your reaction was no initial thought too! I was like do what?Anyhow, i re read the consolodated notes, but I am sort of an idiot. My wife gets ill at me alk the time because she can TELL me something and I wont rememember it. If I actually SEE something, I stnd a better chance of comprehending and remembering. I will go back and re-read as well as search HYDROPHILIC again! I really appreciate your patience!
  7. As for after I get the wool rigidized, does anyone know how I can apply the castible without looking like i fingerpainted the Mona Lisa? I was really proud of how clean the refractory looked on my first go round. It was a bit of a PITA, getting it to go around my support pins, and I think that in so doing, I mixed it too thin. I hesitate to hand paint the casitble inside because I want it to be as smooth as possible, but if it just cant be done, someone please let me know.
  8. After I last posted, I felt a surge of ambition, so I went out and chipped out the castible. It wasnt as difficult as I anticipated. I had some 2" Insawool on hand so I carefully sliced it into an aproximately 1" layer. I sprayed 3M super 77 glue inside to hold the wool and now I am reseraching rigidizers. Pnut, I looked into what you called "hydrophobic colloidal silica" turns out they sell the stuf at West Marine near me. The only thing is, I cant find much information on using it for this application. It is definitely the nore cost effective option. Real wool rigidizer on amazon runs north of $30 while the thing of silica is only $15 and I could get it right away. Alas, I dont want to be in the same boat I was a few days ago, tearing out and re-doing...
  9. Well said, Pnut. Thanks for the encouragement! I actually found the burner to be quite easy! From the looks of it, it has a consistent flame and I am optimistic about it. We will see. Wonder how hard of a time that castible is going to give me as I chip it out?
  10. Punt,I read it, however I was already 75-80% underway before I found it. Reluctantly, I will most likely be doing some chipping and relining. I just hate having to back up, but I think it will be worth it to re do the lining. Marcus and JHCC, i will definitely take your thoughts into consideration. Thanks!
  11. I thought there was some spray out there that would stiffen up the surfce of the wool. My question is this, suppose I been out the hard refractory and put in the wool, how tough will the refractory e with the softer wool behind it? Will it want to collapse? That ws my concern from the beginning before I stumbled upon iforgeiron...
  12. Thanks for the advice, Marcus. I am afraid of the refractory issue. Its going to be some nasty chipping if i have to to start over. I had her built before I found the forum so here goes. I will put some on the doors as per your recomendation.
  13. ALCON, Just a little update on the forge progress. As discussed before, she hasn't been proven yet. Its been a fairly busy summer around here. Anyway as far as construction, here's what went down this past weekend... ...added some stainless expanded metal to the doors. We will see if it holds up to the heat. ...oh and I made a stand for the DIY Anvil stand too. I know its top heavy. I'm going to beef the base up later.
  14. Blackironskillett, I was thinking the same thing! My in-laws family is all from the Black Mountain/Swannanoa/Asheville end of the state and forges seem like belly buttons, everyone's got them, the farther west in the state you go!
  15. Welcome, Josh! I'm a little late to the party, but anyhow. I work at near by MCAS Cherry Point. I'm unfortunately not prior military, but thank you for serving! It would be cool for us to get together with some other curmudgeon and beginners who live in our area sometime to learn this obsession!