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Found 84 results

  1. Hi all, This is my first post on I forge iron so please be gentle! I am pretty new to blacksmithing but I have been machining and making things for some time. I have been putting a few bits for blacksmithing and I was made aware of some big lumps of steel that were being scrapped so (despite the fact that the blacksmithing skills don't warrant it yet) I decided to turn them into a 55kg power hammer (120lb) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-knMZTTUCg&t=1027s Hope you like the video. I have a few other videos related to machining and blacksmithing if you are interested. I look forward to joining in the I forge iron conversations rather than just lurking! You guys have already taught me a lot and I hope I can add a little bit in to the mix.
  2. Hi everyone, I saw this idea in a rough sketch on pinterest about 5 years ago, and only recently managed to get around to trying it out. Hopefully this will start a new type of cheap power hammer for us novices I like to call a "Diff hammer". Basically, you power the tail shaft on an open rear vehicle diff, then brake the opposing wheel to send force to the hammer drive. Made exclusively from free parts, excuse the welding of a few novices. This is powered by a 3hp DC treadmill motor, using the treadmill front drive roller as the drive wheel for a V belt, but a flat belt would also work. The plans were to link the two brake levers together, so the hammer was actively braked as soon as you lift your foot, but I haven’t found this necessary. The hammer spring is offset by an opposing counterbalance on the wheel to prevent additional vibrations and noise. I used an opposing spring mechanism as I only had access to trampoline springs for free at the time, and it made the spring rate highly adjustable It is a very quiet unit to run, and bearings are all available at local auto parts stores should they need replacing. The anvil is a big 130kg round of cro-molly I got for scrap prices, with a bit of rail line welded to the top sitting on a 100mm thick 300mm round I got for free from a local laser cutting place Video of it working hopefully to come on Thursday. any advice would be thankfuly recieved. VID_20200219_205940.mp4
  3. Hi I am Rocken Mike I started forging my own knifes and blades last year and I have been having a great time doing it. I have looked for power hammers and all are too big or too expensive so I checked out a few You Tube videos and built my own It works better than I was hoping for. My biggest expense was the treated 6 X 6 post I used for construction it took 2 8' X 6" X 6" treated post. Anybody with a little skill and a welder and a circular saw and a drill can build this cheep. I got the bearing from a local motor repair shop and the pillow block bearings same place. The recoil spring is from a set of porch swing springs the rest was from my shop. This was a simple build with easy to find parts with a budget in mind. I would recommend anchoring the base to the floor with the force of the hammer it wants to walk around a bit. So I will share this pictures of it completed.
  4. Hi Guys, Just looking fort some straight up opinions. I have an opportunity to buy a new style LG 50# mechanical hammer for $4500 CAD or potentially a Blu Max 110# for $4000 CAD. Both appear to be in pretty good shape. the blu max is only 7 years old with apparently light use. I already have a 5HP Ingersoll compressor to run the Blu off of and obviously I don't need it for the LG. Just curious to get your thoughts on which to bite on..
  5. OK everything I just wrote dissapeard, Here is my home made power hammer, I am trying to make a living being an artist blacksmith and bronze foundry, I have also made a Pneumatic planshing hammer
  6. Dos anyone know where a fella could find something from which to make an anvil suitable for a 40-60 pound power hammer? I live in Mechanicsville, VA and was thinking maybe the shipyards in Norfolk would be a good starting point but most scrap yards I contacted are "Single-Contract Sellers" and can't sell me even so much as an old rusty nail. Any help would be welcomed. Bill
  7. I’m considering a 75kg Anyang power hammer for my shop. I know there are so many threads on here which talk about foundations and isolation pads, but there are so many variables, it seems impossible to have a one fits all solution. The Anyang is a one piece unit, which I would think is a bit more forgiving than having a seperate anvil, but then I’m not sure! We are very rural, but I have one neighbouring property, which is only about 50 meters away from the workshop. The couple who live there are not very forgiving about noise. Any noise. Last week whilst I was working in the shop, the guy shouted over and asked me if I could turn the radio down, as they could hear it in their house! Okay, it has a good base sound, but even so, he must have ears like a fruit bat. I obliged, but at the same time, I pondered my decision that is to have a power hammer within the coming year!!! The only option I can think of, other than having them “run out of town”, is to have a good isolation pad beneath the hammer. I realise that it will still be heard, but if I can at least stop the vibrations being transmitted through the ground, I’m sure I can argue the rest, as hell, we are on a rural 10 acre property, and we could be running heavy farm equipment if we so should wish. So, without having to sell a kidney to pay for design of a isolation pad, would any of you fine fellows know where I might get some good ballpark advice about what might be a sufficient type/mass of pad to be aiming for? I realise that when I dig out, I might need a water pump if the groundwater table is high, or, to pump out any ingress of water between the pad and the wall etc. But also a decent idea of how big this thing needs to be would be a great start. The 75kg is only a possibility, else I could even go with a 44kg hammer. I know the 44 doesnt need anything other than to sit on a standard workshop floor, but then I know ill have the same issue with the darn neighbours. So, ill have to try and isolate in any case I guess. A friend of mine runs a 15kg hammer, and his neighbours (who don’t mind) can hear it working, and they are maybe 80 mtrs away. That said, his is just sitting straight on the slab floor. Thanks in advance guys.
  8. Ok so I bought a Beaudry #9 power hammer back in November and am finally able to set it up. The flat belt system is confusing me and I am having a hard time finding literature or reference on how this stuff is supposed to be set up. I have a jack shaft driven by a 10hp motor. Unfortunately the drive wheel is about half the size of the flywheel on the hammer. I wish I could find a larger one. As of right now I am testing with an old worn out canvas belt that I got with the hammer. My main problem is around belt length and tension. The belt is supposed to spin with the jack shaft around the flywheel on the hammer until you engage the clutch pulley. The only way I was able to achieve this was for the belt to be rather loose. I am also finding that the hammer is difficult to engage initially but once it is running it is very responsive to clutch tension. As of right now it takes almost all of my weight to engage the hammer then after that its really easy to regulate. Am I missing something obvious? Ill add pictures tomorrow if it would help.
  9. is there anything "wrong" with designing/building a two piece die; with the dovetail part bolted to the striking part of the die ?? Seems to me the hardest and thus more expensive part to machine is the dovetail section... Then the striking section could be a "chunk of metal" found at local steel pile/store/ebay/junk and then drilled, tapped and assembled to the dovetail. Or am i missing something.... ??
  10. I"m looking for a picture of the back side of the pulley, specifically of the wooden shoes that engage the pulley to the shaft. Thank you, Regis
  11. I've been working with the great folks at SOFA to try and coordinate a tire-hammer workshop, led by Clay Spencer. It is tenatively planned to occur mid-April of next year. The cost would be approx. $1500 and several days of work to leave with a finished tire hammer/power hammer. A 50% deposit would be due in advance. This would be held at the SOFA facility in Troy, OH (where Quadstate is held). Details are still being worked out and are thus subject to change, but we are trying to gauge interest. If you would be interested in attending, and would have the financial means to do so, send me a PM with your name and email address and we will keep you in the loop. Details will be available soon on the SOFA website (www.sofablacksmiths.org). Please note that some sessions of prep work are required prior to the workshop itself, so if you live too far away to attend those sessions, please let me know so we can discuss alternative arrangements.
  12. Hello, I've been searching for a power hammer or forging press for a few years now! They seem to be so hard to come by. I'm ideally looking for a pilkinton 1cwt or anything similar, but I'd consider anything that moves hot steel at this point! If anyone knows of anything for sale in the UK I'd be grateful! Thanks, Tom
  13. Hello everyone! My name is Andre, I’m naturally from Brazil. I am finishing my kynion style pneumatic hammer but I’m having a low bpm problem and I don’t know what is the main cause, since I have a 250L compressor running with 15bar.. this is the compressor. My piston is kinda big, but I don’t think that it would be a problem to this compressor... it has 115mm on its base, and the arm diameter is 45mm ( don’t know if this is the right word) Ive based myself on crickets air circuit plans, but with only one roller valve ( maybe this is the problem) (This is not the pilot valve I’m using, it’s just to use as example) All of the main connections and the pilot valve are 1/2”, only the roller valve and it’s connections are 1/4”. Here is the video of the hammer running... I’m hopping that someone will be able to help me! Thank you!! EA206319-0C77-4302-88C0-722A26E5780E.MOV
  14. I know I am preaching to the choir here since nearly all of you have known Clay Spencer longer than I have but, His current tooling class is an intensive program that has rewards in the instruction, hands-on smithing and the bevy of tools that the participants take home. The current cost is $300 and is sure to rise with the rising prices of steel. Clay furnishes everything but personal protection equipment and he will provide a list participants must supply. I took home 18 pieces of tooling, most of which sell at meets for $35-$45 each. Clay demonstrates the use of each and shows how the tools cut time and effort in many day to day challenges in blacksmithing. Clay is more than willing to share his vast knowledge and the chance to pick up and handle his hundreds of tools, dies and patterns will inspire one to stretch their limits in their own shop. He has a well equipped shop with Tire Hammers, Treadles, numerous Grinding and Drilling Stations. The class uses coal, gas and inductive forges in all phases. Not only does he show how, but why his techniques work and their uses. It's a weekend class that runs 9AM to 9PM on Saturday and 9 AM to 3 PM On Sunday. I prefer not to list his contact information on the web but if you will PM me I will share his e-mail. He is listed in The Bits magazine in the annual membership issue. Joe Gassen
  15. Hi all. Here is my design for my power hammer (Ron Kenyon simple air hammer with Larry Zoeller modifications) die. At the moment it is just the base but i run into a little problem/dilemma. https://cad.onshape.com/documents/e3c54a90c5026613737eea49/w/3c2b0ea84d0f4dc883b1228e/e/9e5e7e7e4e0c0513d97797a9 The problem is with the dovetail. Currently i'm using a 50mm diameter, 20mm~ height, 60 degree, dovetail cutter. However, it's angle is way more steep then the angle i see on other power hammers die and bases (ram and anvil). It is very easy to use the dovetail i got since i only have to use one tool to do it and it is pretty fair and simple. However, i'm not sure that it is the right thing to do. How can i cut the base and die dovetail? i do not see any specific tool to do it. The die itself is relatively easy and in the "worst" case i can do it in two parts, one for the dovetail and other for the head itself with the die design. But the base is hard. I can tilt the head of the mill to cut an angle but i will have residual marking and grooves on the base of the dovetail, which i think is not very good. Any idea? Thanks, Mike
  16. I'm investigating purchase of a power hammer directly from China. I'm leaning toward a 25kg hammer with the 2 piece design. They all look like they're based on the same design but I'm sure there are quality differences between the factories. Do people here know about any factories or brands that have a reputation for being particularly good or bad? Thanks for any input.
  17. I've been posting this in a couple other places, but thought I'd post the whole thing over here too as it's a real hammer crowd and I could always use more input! The thread starts back a month ago in early June... Well, I had enough of trying to track down hammers, afford them, dicker over price, lose deals from distance and competition... so I contacted my friend Larry Langdon and sure enough, he had a good project hammer to sell me.It's a #9 Beaudry Champion, the slack belt type, the 300 lb. model. It needs dies and a sow block. Overall it's not too badly worn but has a good surface rust coat from sitting idle in a warehouse in Seattle for decades. Larry threw in a jackshaft setup including 7.5 hp 1100 RPM 3 phase motor, a big flat pulley he fabricated for it, the right 3-groove sheaves to achieve speed range, and shaft and bearings so putting together the drive tower should be relatively simple.I got a monster sow block from some old steam hammer with it too, which he'd found and been saving as a starter block to shape a smaller sow for the Beaudry from. That's the most daunting part of the whole project, it's a lot of metal removal but I have no doubt it'll get done in the end.I drove over to southern Idaho Memorial Day weekend to get it, 1200 miles round trip and 48.5 hours total.Here's some pics...You can see the big sow block in the pics, it needs the top and bottom dovetails cut off, and then cut into a round disc 10" thick and 16.5" wide. I have ordered a #7 cutting tip and am reading up on severing heavy sections, I have a very good old oxy-ace book from the 40's that deals with that stuff. Then I'll have to grind it nice and flat on both top and bottom and machine in dovetails that match the hammer.I've wire brushed a good portion of the frame, and am soaking everything with penetrating oil- the first thing I'll do probably to get into it is fabricate a treadle, that I know I can do easily enough. Then it's the sow block...I have just managed to source some used dies from a similar hammer, with slight modification they will work. 4" wide by 11" long by 2" outside the dovetails! Oh I can't wait to slap some hot steel between those big glorious flat dies and whale away... As far as I can tell from a spark test the sow appears to be mild steel. That's a relief! I think it'll cut ok.If I can get my gear and technique dialed in correctly, oxy-ace should be the fastest method by a long shot, to rough the block down... hopefully I can get a clean enough cut that the snagging afterwards isn't too horribly demanding. I do have big rocks for my big angle grinders.Abrasive gas saw remains an attractive option B. In fact, if the first cut doesn't go well with the torch, I have three remaining ones to cut off with the saw. We'll see. It would take a whole lot of sawing and a bunch of wheels, but would come out cleaner with less grinding afterwards necessary.I have a friend who has a moldmaker's shop, with a couple seriously large CNC mills- I thought if I could get the disc roughed in, I'd take it up to him to see if a program and cutters can be made to work on the big mill, as far as cutting in the top female and bottom male dovetails.If not, I might be looking for a shaper. I know where one is that I could buy, but it's likely not big enough. Can't remember. I got the #7 Victor tip in today, and wow the center jet for the cutting oxy is BIG! on that thing.I perused some reference material for a rough idea of the amount of oxygen I might consume... it appears that running that tip at about 50 psi oxygen will burn through one of my large full tanks in about 1/2 hour or less. Cutting speed might be 3-4 ipm, and I have roughly 14 inches of cut length per side of the two dovetails. So, if it goes well I might be able to cut the dovetails off before going to refill and then cutting the main puck down to a smaller diameter circle.It is recommended to use 3/8" hose or better and no flashback arrestors to inhibit the oxygen supply, so I dug out the heavy hose I had stashed, took the arrestors off, leak tested it all and ran the torch for a minute, and it all checks out- so I believe I'm ready to try tomorrow.I think I'll grind a path clean of surface rust; I've found my best cutting occurs when the preheat flames are not hitting a rusted surface.One factor of which I'm uncertain, is that the dovetail sections have a maximum width of 7" to cut, but the lead-in and tail-out portions of the cuts taper in from and out to nothing. I'll have to slant the oxy jet a bit so as to not blow through those parts too quick and rough, I suppose.I type all of this, to reveal my thought process in case anyone has advice to add- to hear from folks skilled in heavy manual flame cutting would be very helpful. Also, it will now be here as a record of my attempt and the results, for better or worse, should anyone else face a similar task! I didn't mess with the sow today, but tinkered with the moving parts for an hour or so, and made some progress.I got the brake cleaned out and freed up, loosened.Yesterday I cut the broken adjuster bolt out, and put a new one in for now. Probably go with something less tacky, ultimately.I reefed on it super hard, sprayed pen oil all over, left overnight.Came out today, and used a mild steel set hammer and sledge to rap upwards on the guide wedge. After a little of that, more reefing on the adjuster, until finally the wedge began to slide up a bit.You can see the rust line where the ram sat in one spot for a long time! Not super deep pitting though.I slapped some scrap together to make a quick "Big Ghetto Wrench" and hauled away on the crank pin nut.And voila! The ram dropped farther in the guides, to bottom dead center, and the main shaft turned fairly easily.Lots more drop with the crankshaft rotated and the ram free.Crankshaft rotated to bottom position. Not hard at all with the brake and ram freed up!Upon observation earlier, I saw some not totally dried grease hanging at the bottom of the crank bearings on both sides of the frame, leading me to hope that the shaft had not seeped full of water and rusted solid to the bearings over time. Seems like that worked how I'd have wished after all!Now I have to make a 2.5" square (IIRC) driver/wrench to turn the set screws for the spring arm tension adjustment, and break all that free and take it apart so I can remove the ram to polish all of the moving bits up. One end of the idler/brake linkage pivot shaft. It was well corroded from water getting into the oil holes and down into the babbitt bearings. The linkage was frozen and would not pivot, necessitating the freeing and removal of the old shaft.I finally got the shaft out, it took a lot of Blaster and hammering back and forth on the ends, using a mild steel set hammer to cushion the blow of an 8# sledge. It was rusty enough to be scrapped, but the babbitt itself in the frame will live to fight another day.Linkage yoke removed, and a piece of 1" round cold rolled steel try-fit in for a new shaft. It fits just a little loose, but this is not an area where precision of movement is key. I'll re-babbitt or perhaps bush with bronze later if warranted. More steps along the way...The new treadle/brake linkage shaft needed tapered holes for the pins, and neither I or the local machine shop had a taper reamer the right size... so I cut a piece of coil spring, straightened and annealed it, and chucked it up in the lathe to make a tapered "D" style reamer.With a 1 degree taper cut onto the reamer, I milled off half of the diameter and stoned it smoothish.Quench hardened and drawn to a straw temper...Drilled some 19/64" holes and followed up with the tapered "D" style reamer. It cuts nice and smooth!New shaft installed. The brake and treadle are workably linked and operational once more! A problem though with the inboard yoke for the treadle link, is that the pin hole drilled through the casting is not centered with the through shaft. As the hole in the shaft is centered, this creates a slight misalignment. A taper pin still fits OK but it may need more attention later. I had an old tie bolt... 1" round mild steel, just long enough to make a treadle from. Here I'm roughing the bend in cold using a big piece of RR track as a bending "fork" and a cheater pipe. I then tuned the curve a bit with a 10 lb. sledge over the big sow block.I cut and drilled some 2" x 1/2" bar to fit the treadle pivot dogs, a short one on this side, with the bolt/treadle welded directly on...It makes a nice arc matching the outer circumference of the foot of the frame, and is adjustable in height/angle by the arced slots for the front mounting bolts.My Airco CV300-II Mig over to the left... made short work of solid welds for the round-to-flat joints. The spring is too wimpy to work by itself, regardless of that I left excess treadle bar running out to the back, which will have a sliding counterweight fit to it. I plan to have both counterweight and spring there.Next I have to get a piece of sheared taper pin out of the bottom linkage yoke inside the frame, and make/install a new one. More tinkering to relate...There was weirdness in the lower treadle linkage... found there was a shattered pin in the bottom yoke, which enabled the yoke to slip on the shaft rather than pivot to push on the connecting rod.It was a pain in the NECK to get out. In the end I had to break out a flashlight and inspection mirror to line it up correctly, then use significant force to punch and pry the pin pieces up and out.The yoke is in a position that makes it hard to get to the pin from below! Had to pry against the frame with pinch bars and various short punches against the pin.I measured the old pin, which was 3.5" effective length, and found it to be about a 1 degree taper- .360" on the small end, .500" on the big end. Set the lathe up and used the compound rest to manually cut a new taper pin. I should really be using the 18" Hendey for this stuff but it's not as tooled up as my little Grizzly is, yet... I was too brain fried at this point to calculate the taper exactly, so I first turned the major and minor diameters on the ends and then set one degree on the compound and just observed how that came out as I cut the final passes. As it turned out the taper did not extend quite down to the minor diameter, so I tapped just a tiny bit more angle on the compound, took finish cuts, and it blended right down into the right taper over the length. My bonehead approach, plus that little Grizz lathe needs to be observed and adjusted rather than taken for granted as a stiff, precise machine!Not the world's best finish, but good for a pin!It tapped down in there nice and snug, and presto the linkage works how it should. Now I can step on the treadle and yell "bam bam bam!" all I want. I do a lot of work on my knee mill. It's already proved invaluable on the hammer rebuild, as it has for the rebuild and ongoing maintenance of my Little Giant power hammer and other machines. Just had to give it a shout out, it's an Index model 645, with power X feed and quill. I used it on the wrench to follow...The big set screws for the spring tension on the Beaudry have square sockets, which are a little irregular but are pretty much 1.940" both ways. I got a chunk of 2" hot rolled mild bar, and on the knee mill, roughed the sides down to 1.940" square and bored a 1" hole for a handle.The Beaudry Tension Wrench in full... 2' of 1" cold rolled 1018 for a handle, sliding smooth with little play through the wrench head. A cheater pipe can of course be added as necessary.The custom Beaudry Tension Wrench in action... gonna need to work on the threads a bit more with pen oil and possibly even heat though, we'll see. As I was driving to a gig the other day, my thoughts were on the hammer... imagining the fabrication of an idler pulley. Then I realized- wasn't there an idler pulley on that old straight six agricultural motor I got with some old trucks? Had a look the next morning, and voila... there it is, lower right, 5" face and 8" in diameter, mounted on its own bearings (which are still in good shape.)Turning to matters of adapting the idler to the hammer, the first item was to design a mounting method. The idler arm is bent from some unknown past force, such that any wheel mounted directly to it would be severely out of plane with the hammer's drive wheel.So, I got one of the old 3/4" nuts from the idler arm, and made a custom T-nut with it to fit into the idler arm's slot.Neither of the big bolts I had were the correct length, one being too short and one being too long. I decided to use the too-short one as the threads were better.There had been a large washer/standoff on one of the bolts, on the idler- so I turned a counterbore into it that the big washer can seat into. This on the 1911 Hendey 18"x10' lathe.My big Hendey lathe, take a bow old girl!With the parts modified, and a plan in my mind, I decided to use my Airco 3A stick/TIG welder, as the leads are 50 ft. long and can run right over up to the top of the hammer to tack weld in situ.It was pushing 100f as this photo was taken... the wheel is shimmed up to the right height with the idler, and I have a big flat old chainsaw bar clamped to the hammer drive wheel to transfer the plane of it to the face of the idler wheel. This should make it track right when tensioning the flat belt. I have the idler mount bolt tightened onto the arm, and am tacking the wheel's shaft mount to the angle adapter plate on the idler bolt.I took it all down after tacking, brought it inside, and MIG'ed finish welds on all around. The plates involved act as angle adapters as well as standoffs to achieve correct distance from idler, and correct alignment with the drive pulley.Mounted back up to have a look...From the off side...Observe the tiny blue sky gap between the wheels... you can see that they are parallel. Actually from the face angle of the belt they are more co-planar yet.The hammer as he sits now.. idler installed, treadle fabbed and installed, brake freed and linkage corrected. Next is to make the adjustable connecting arm from brake pivot to idler arm.
  18. Hay guys, so I've kinda fabricated myself into a bit of a corner with my new toy. Just finished building myself a new style kinyon power hammer with a 125# head that's getting its paint job at the moment. I'll put a pic below of its unpainted self. My issue is the floor of my shop. The whole hammer weighs around 1400# according to my CAD sofware and was walking around while i was testing it out, and making a pair of damascus knives I had to rush for Christmas gifts. The obvious solution is to bolt it down which I intended to do. But now that the time for it has come I'm not so sure I want to, or can. The typical solution from what I've read is to cut a hole in the floor and dig a few feet down to pour a larger foundation for the hammer that's separate from the main floor. The problem, my shops floor has heat pipe running through it to keep it warm during the winter. The floor is about 6" deep but I'm sure that's not nearly enough. So far the best option me and my father have thought up would be to pour another cement pad roughly 48"x30"x10" that the hammer and sit up on and be bolted to. This would be a temporary solution as the hammer's final resting place will be under a large car port on the side of the shop that hasn't been built yet. But would this idea work very well? Would the floor have a problem with it? Would the pad just start sliding around with the hammer? Are there other options we've not come up with yet? Thanks for any input you guys can give Bren Leach Slyfox Forge
  19. Hello, I'm looking for a Beaudry & Co power hammer placard. Anyone have one or any leads on one, preferably one that isn't currently affixed to a machine? I'd prefer an orphan as I don't want one being taken from its rightful home on my account. Thank you in advance for any help you might be able to give, --Dan
  20. Saw this little guy in an old shop here in Wyoming. I'll hopefully get better pics later, but it appears to be only about 3.5/4' tall. The base doesn't look like any little giant I've seen, so any ideas?
  21. Well this has been a project that Ive been wanting to do for quite a while now and I'm glad to say it is finally finished. Its inspired from the pictures of a few compact DePew helve hammers i saw pictures of as well as the Hawkeye helve and a few others, as well as some of my own ideas. I was originally going to build a spare tire hammer but couldn't wrangle up the parts, so i looked around the shop at what i had and what space i had to work with. I still intend to build the tire hammer at some point and there are a few parts that i purposely avoided using in this build in order to save them for that project. but the most important parts here were constructed from mostly barstock. The hammer head was build of 1'' square welded into a heavier block, the helve arm from 1/2''x1 1/2'' and 1''x1/2'' bar welded into an I beam configuration, the large curved supports on the top and bottom are 1'' square and round bent cold in the bottle jack press, the treadle is of 1/2'' square, the lifting linkage is of mostly 1/2'' round, the eccentric crank is 1'' square bar welded to a heavy 1'' shaft sprocket hub from the tractor supply store, and the anvil itself (the top face at least) is of 1'' square and round alternating to leave a ''v'' for welding into a solid plate on which to mount the dies. The other main pieces are the 3/4 horsepower electric motor with a 1 1/2'' v belt pully, the 13'' spoked pulley on the other side of the eccentric shaft (set in ball bearings), the trailor spring on top, and of course the cones that make up the anvil and base of the machine. Now the cones are what inspired this all in the first place, they are two steel shells that originally lined with ceramic and were part of a coal seperation unit called a cyclone, i got them where i used to work. The cones are relatively thin though at around 1/8'' thick which made reinforcements necessary at the anvil end. The flange was torched off of the "point" and a slice of 6" OD pipe tacked into place, then pieces of 1'' bar were cut to fit the round pipe ID a,d tacked into place, finally small pieces of 1/2'' square bare were welded under the ring to spread the impact load more evenly around the cone. A few final things to note: the dies are removable and interchangeable as long as nearly the same weight is maintained (so as not to affect the tuning), the spacing of the dies is adjustable by moving the bolt in the spring shackle into a higher/lower hole, the crank offset is also adjustable by moving the crank bolt into one of three holes(1 1/2'' offset, 2 1/2'' offset, and 3 1/2'' offset) though the machine is tuned at 2 1/2'' offset (5'' throw overall) and the motor isn't quite strong enough to run it at the widest offset, and the smallest offset is really there for planishing and optional sheetmetal work. And for those who are wondering, the "Clutch" is just the motor itself being mounted on the treadle so that when depressed the motor moves down slightly which tightens the belt and engages the hammer.
  22. I am making a power hammer and am not sure a wooden frame is up to the task. As I do not have access welder or nor the knowledge of how to use one I have made a frame out of wood. I have enclosed a picture of the design and of my frame (I am not done with it). What do you guys think? I can jump on the frame and it barely moves. As I have never used one before I don't know about the stresses that the hammering puts on the machine.
  23. Well it's almost done. I have a few more parts to make and some more welding to do. The column to slide housing will be welded in today and the motor wired. I am making my dies from 4140 to start with. The laser cut patterns I made helped a lot. I am curious, has anyone filled their columns with sand to help with the noise? Any noise reduction would be a bonus. The wife has offered to do the final clean up grinding and painting. Thanks all!
  24. First run testing of tire hammer I built. Largely based on Spencer and anvilfire pictures and any other photos or information I could find on the web. I wanted to take advantage of everything I could and using a hub assembly off the rear of a front wheel drive vehicle provided a brake system predesigned and fitted. 62 lbs ram weight, 800 lbs in anvil section, approx. 1200 lbs total as it sits (think I need to add a little more anvil weight as the ram came in above what I had planned), 1 hp motor at full rpm would be over 300 BPM but from the video it is obviously running slower than that. Still needing adjustments and tuning but I will wait until a proper guard is in place before using. I am waiting for full testing and tuning before painting unit. Current investment just under $700 USD which includes a spool of mig wire and a new tank of shielding gas. Video https://youtu.be/ZmwaUShvo9M
  25. I am in the process of assembling an old 35# Modern power hammer. It seems to be all there, and it looks like it is fairly straight forward. There is one thing that I am puzzled about. This power hammer has two large pillow blocks that sit on top of the head. These blocks have 2 by about 8 inch cut outs that allow a 2 inch block to slide inside the cut out. there is one on either side, and the pivot shaft runs through these 2 inch blocks. With the pivot arm in place this allows the fulcrum to be adjustable. So far this all makes sense, and after cleaning everything up it all fits together nicely. This is my concern, near the rear of both pillow blocks is a groove or slot. The pivot arm has a pin that goes through and indexes into these slots in the pillow blocks.The slots are arched and the pin follows the slot with the arm in motion. But with the pin in place the pivot is not able to be changed. The explanation may be as simple as it is just there to make a non adjustable hammer, but in case there is a different reason I thought I would seek advice.
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