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I Forge Iron

Matt Watson

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About Matt Watson

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Tullahoma TN about an hour from Murfreesboro and Chattanooga
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, woodworking, guitar, fishing, hunting, rock climbing, camping, almost anything. I dabble in a little of everything but haven't mastered any of them.

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  1. Another FrankenBurner what about printing a fan blade like a 3 blade boat propeller that is a couple millimeters less of a diameter of the pipe so it can rotate. Would that help with what your trying to do? Just trying to figure out a way to insert it into the mixing tube and where at within the length would be the problem I see with doing this. I have a friend who had a 3d printer for a while and he printed a box with gears in it that turned and there wasn't any assembling any pieces of it it wort just as it was printed. If there was a way you could do some type of cylinder insert where the
  2. Thank you Mikey for simplifying that I understood it a little better. I like it when yall add specific scientific terms in these post so I can look them up and learn some more. I'm starting to enjoy the science behind the burners and forges / and also building them just as much as I enjoy actually forging. If I could just get my son to sit down and learn it with me that would be an amazing accomplishment for him. He stays with me for a few minutes then gets bored with it and would rather just burn something. Guess I cant blame him since he's ten and has ADD just like me.
  3. Ok, I do not have the intelligence yall have. Frosty you stated the paddles aren't flat and while my initial comment was to simply twist the air opening on the Mikey burner to achieve this I believe a little tweaking with scrolling pliers would be needed to get the right pitch of the blades. Also in order to get the blades to create the desired effect they would have to be on the inside diameter of the pipe I think is what you were saying Mikey. I read your comment several times and still couldn't fully understand it. could you have a smaller diameter pipe section (use a spring fuller to radi
  4. After looking at this design and since I've been looking at yours as well and have a little experience with blacksmithing now I am wondering if you were to heat your air opening up and twisted it wouldn't it create this same effect and cut the need to cast it? I'm just guessing here but that what I'm seeing when I look as this is the slotted material left would turn and it should create a twist in them essentially making them into blades. The only issue I can think of with doing that would be keeping it perfectly aligned centered with the opposite end.
  5. Hello Frosty, I understand completely about your thoughts on the car handles, seatbelt latches and knives. Being a police officer the past 12 years I've seen a few that couldn't make it out of a burning car and burned myself in the process of getting a guy out once. But back to the topic. So the best insulating material for forges is Kaowool but you need a hardener for longevity, and the ITC 100 isn't useful except for its radiant abilities so only a thin layer would be useful. I want to be able to keep the heat in the forge as much as possible just as everyone else. That's why I was thinking
  6. I am now starting to get a little confused with the refractory choices. I thought the ITC 100 HT was supposed to be the best stuff out there due to its insulating capabilities reflecting the heat back in and reducing the overall cost of fuel. This is the main reason I was wanting to overkill this forge I figured spend the money up front to build it right then it will save in the long run. From what I'm reading on both the Metrikote and the Plastix they are used as an insulator final coating like most have done with the ITC 100 HT. According to ITC website the 100HT can be used as a coating or
  7. Frosty thanks for the reply. I looked back on their website and it says a pint covers 6.5-12.5 sugar feet. It doesn't specify a thickness on there. I'm not sure where I got that 1" from but i thought it was on their website. They have the 100 listed as a coating material and a castable and the 296 as a top coat but it doesnt really specify the difference between the 2. I sent them an email to inquire a little more details on the differences and as to weather the 100 is actually a bulk castable or just meaning it can be shaped. But now that you have pointed these things out and suggested the ka
  8. No typo. From what I've seen most use just a thin coating due to the high cost of the material and high shipping cost. I purchased a pint which according to the label will cover a 5ft square area 1' thick. Which would give me enough to do what I'm wanting to do with a little left over. I figured instead of a thin layer that would be more susceptible to cracking, a thicker more solid foundation of the material would possibly last longer and be much stronger. I had thought of using a cheaper castible for the entire forge then using the ITC as a coating but most that I read about crack and break
  9. Hey Mikey thanks for the idea. I use a 1.5" with a 1/4 end plug drilled and tapped with a .25 MIG tip. That is centered with 4 1/4 ×20 bolts. The mixing tube is 8" and the flare cone when outside my current forge is a 3/4×1" reducer but the way I have it in my current forge it goes into the soft fire brick halfway and the last inch of it is ground to a taper creating the cone. That's what gave me the idea for casting the new one. I'll have to look back and see the step design your referring to and see what to use and try it on my burner before I start this new one. A step would be alot easie
  10. I need some opinions. I have finished the shell of my new forge and will soon be starting to fill it with the insulation. I know its over kill but I'm using 2''Kao Wool with hardener to help support the 2'' ITC 100 HT. The outside dimensions are 14L x 13W x 13H. The final inside dimensions will be 14x5x5 350ci total for a 3/4'' single burner Ron Reil design (might change to a ''Mikey burner'' if I can get the time to go ta a buddy's machine shop to build it). I have been thinking of casting the flare cone into the refractory instead of a standard hole for it to fit down in. I'm thinking the mi
  11. Dan I took my classes at Lynchburg forge. There really isn't a name for it but the gentleman that runs the shop and teaches the classes is Bruce Gillies. Quite an amazing guy with a lot of experience. He doesn't charge anything to come there you can give a donation to help with the purchase of coal which he just recently started but you don't have to give anything. The man loves the craft and just genuinely like to teach it seems like. I was lucky to have stumbled across it and it's actually not far from my house. I'm sure you will have a great time at Ken's. I haven't been but I recently pur
  12. ThomasPowers I'm not familiar with 4340 I'll have to look that one up I pretty much know nothing when it comes to metallurgy. As far as my anvil I bought it online and had it shipped to me. I did look at pictures but at the time I knew nothing about anvils except the old ones that were forged were supposed to be the best of the best along with hand crank blowers and post vices. That was my general understanding at the time. I still think my anvil is superior in alot of ways compared to others that I have seen in person now that I have located people in my area with the same interest. But eithe
  13. Swedefiddle by swail your referring to the low dished spot? If so I do use this section for straightening to within probably 1/8 of an inch but anything closer than that I have to resort to other methods. Maybe I just need more experience and practice with my anvil. I just know that I dont have to work as hard on an anvil that has a flat face. The one at my local group forge is flat and I dont have a problem with it. The instructor said he welded it then flattened it with a grinder and he has probably 50 years of experience and told me to do that with mine. I didnt want to argue with him or an
  14. Frosty this is the only one I have on my phone at the moment I can post another one tomorrow. I know what you mean about wanting the best of things I'm bad about that that's why I wanted this anvil I thought it was going to be the best and it is amazing I think and the only reason I want a flat surface is for straightening things that are longer than the with in the front part that is pretty flat. The corners aren't much of a concern I wish they were in better shape but I have a few spots that I wouldn't want to change due to the fact that they actually help in some things. Kozzy I actually t
  15. I have been scrolling through these trying to figure out what to do to mine if someone who knows more than me wants to offer their insight it would be appreciated. My anvil is a 1830-1850 Hill anvil 201# that was forged with the hardy and prichet hole. I bought it a couple years ago and paid $1200 for it ( my first anvil) also my only anvil. I have maybe 100 hrs of use on it but I just got my forge going a few weeks ago. It is in good shape for the most part but there is not a sharp edge on it anywhere because of chips not major problem but a little sharper on the corners would be good. and t
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