Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

It looks like an early Forgemaster or Hypona forge to me. One of our Farriers will probably have more ideas.

I would use the washer you have, it will form itself to the screw & jaw after a while.

Post it up in the Tailgating section with what you think its worth or OBO, you never know until you try.

Some burners require some secondary air for complete combustion, some don't. The only way to tell is to try it both ways. The Gaco kiln burner we used is happy with a lot of secondary air, without it the forge runs rich.

I doubt it is spring steel, looks like a crank handle for raising and lowering the trailer front support wheels. It is still useful though should make good punches & drifts, kinda small for hammers.

For that stock I would use a hand hacksaw.

Welcome Trevor, we won't remember your location once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it. This thread will help getting the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST

You might look up Forgemaster Blacksmith forge. I used one several times and it is a very good forge.

I have a box with about 50 pounds of different chopper blades. I have made several knives from them and they hardened well and tempered like 5160 so when I want to make a small knife I use them.

Welcome clgill57... have you read this yet? It will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST Also this thread is 9 years old so I doubt any of the op's will see it.

We can walk you through that. Click on your name like you would to log off, click on profile then in the upper right corner click on edit profile. Then a box will open up to edit it with a place to add location. My wife just got back from her annual two week camping trip for the summer solstice, with about 600 of her friends and like minded folks. It was in Ohio just across the Indiana border and it stormed every day except one, from the same storm system y'all are dealing with. Needless to say she was not a happy camper.

I have a 1943 # 10 Vulcan 110 pounds that I use a lot and really like it and it's been in use since the early 80s in our shop even though we have 3 other anvils it's still my favorite. The other side is marked 43 for the year, a year younger than I. I thought it had a thick plate until someone pointed out, although the plate looks thick it really isn't, just the way Vulcan welded the plates on. You can see here after I did an etch to remove the rust/patina where a miss strike chipped it the actual hardened plate is rather thin. You can see the line below the chip that I was told it was a thick plate but the hardened plate is the smooth area above the cast iron break. Still a good anvil in my opinion because it is so quiet. BTW Welcome to IFI... As you can see my Vulcan has been happy all those years on it's oak stump.

Also forge a couple of adjustable bands for it.

The diagonal is a good idea because in my experience the HF carts are a little flimsy as they are anyway. We have several.

OK then the extension's with the wheels are what about 9 1/2 inches on each side, which shouldn't pose a real trip hazard is that correct. BTW what cartridges do you reload & cast boolits for? I've been a reloader for over 50 years and have molds for 44 calibers and dies for 36 calibers. I load a lot for my old mil spec rifles with black powder to duplicate the original military loads.

I'm with Frosty on the center of gravity issues. How tall will the opening to your forge wind up being. Just from the picture it looks like you will need a step stool to comfortably get stock in & out unless you are 7 foot tall.

Not only hardy tools, they make a multitude of other tools also.

That's a great gift both the anvil and forge. The forge will do almost anything asked of it. The blower looks like it's ready to go, just put a little oil in it just enough to get the bottom of the gear in oil because they use a splash system to keep them lubed. Too much oil and they leak like a sieve. Also line the pan with clay to prevent cracks or burn out.

That link has been removed, links to commercial sites are not allowed on IFI. Just post the name of the co and let folks google them if interested.

If you start cleaning it on the opposite side from the first picture, you may see some markings (paint hides a lot of them). A lot of anvils are marked on that side. Also clean the foot under the horn to see if there is a serial number or other markings. I would say that you have an excellent anvil if the ring & rebound is good.

My wife is into kayaking and we needed a place to store it while she wasn't using it that was out of the way but easy to get to. I came up with a rope & pulley system with an inexpensive boat trailer hand crank winch. Mounted the winch to a post in the carport and the pulleys to the roof on a 2X4. Straps around the bow & stern then crank it up out of the way, takes less than 5min to deploy.

Stir it...a lot.

I'll ring the anvil three times for the interview to go well.

Without pictures it didn't happen. When it's finished please post it in the knives section.

Looks like an anvil to me. Of course when I have a hammer in my hand everything looks like an anvil or nail.