Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

I read somewhere here that rheostats only work with motors that have replaceable brushes, so if the hair dryer you have has brushes the rheostat should work. I have one on my single speed Dremel that has been working for years. Looking at the picture (blown up) of your hair dryer, I don't think it has brushes.

That is looking very good and seems to work well. I have 2 suggestions though. You need to find a way to control the air flow to conserve fuel and prevent burning the steel. One way would be make a sliding valve between the blower and pipe. The other would be to move the blower away from the pipe so it can be rotated to blow off center to it. The other suggestion is to cut notches in the sides so long stock can be placed in the fire at the right angle. Don't know if you have seen this thread but it does a good job of explaining what I'm trying to say. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/30887-forges-and-fires/

I muted the annoying music.

Welcome... Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST I don't have any experience with the Devil forge, but it's normal for the paint to burn off the outer shell and small cracks to appear in the ridigizer in most forges.

Welcome to IFI... Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST If you edit your profile to show your location you never know there may be some members near you that could help. I doubt you will get an answer from the OP since they haven't been on the forum in a couple of years. Most pictures were lost on the old threads when there was an update to the site. Maybe tell us what you have tried so far beside staring at it. Most blowers don't require disassembly to get them working. Have you checked the fan area for things like muddobber & mouse nests? Have you soaked it in a good crud cutter like Kroil, PB Blaster or a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid & acetone? I've even taken them to a car wash & pressure cleaned them then oiled well. If you could post some pictures (resized) so we can see what you are dealing with that would help.

I remember my folks talking about that with my grandfather. They were saying a truck came by and there were hundreds of anvils on it during WWII and they gave every piece of steel they had like a complete lawn furniture set that they wished they still had and a lot of cast iron cook ware. sigh

Your trailer build is a sticky in Building, Designing a Shop. Great thread and an inspiration to anyone contemplating a build.

Looks like your mixture was too wet. I would just mix some more clay with sand and make it stiff then put that over the top of what you have. It should be stiff enough you have to ram it in with a mallet or board. BTW... Welcome to IFI have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST

I would TIG weld it.

As far as which forge will consume more fuel when forging a knife, I use less coal than propane. However I have a hand cranked blower so when I'm at the anvil the forge is not using much fuel when the blower is not supplying air. My propane forge runs at full blast when at the anvil using more fuel than needed, unless I reduce the pressure to conserve fuel but that is an aggravation to me. When forging blades, I use coal then switch to propane for heat treating. Does that make any sense? For most general forging I use coal but my wife prefers propane so for us it's an individual choice. That's why I say you really need both.

That's an interesting anvil hardy, tell us more. The anvil hold down looks very nice too.

They make nice yard ornaments too. I picked this up when I was first starting out in the 80s. If I remember right it cost $8.00 now resides in my wife's garden. Rings like a bell and the horn is forged .

Gives you a starting place and that's the best way. Most hardware and auto parts stores have a thread gauges to check it with.

Most grocery stores also have bulletin boards. Have any bowling alley's near you, another place to leave word. Our bowling alley has a restaurant with it that has a "liars table" where all the "good old boys" sit. Drop the word there too.

Just looking at the picture the threads look like SAE fine threads, unless they are metric. Measure the # of threads in an inch for the TPI.

Welcome to IFI, have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST That is an anvil home made from RR Track. Not worth much as it's not suited to forging other than very light work. Anything over $5.00 U.S. would be too much to me.

You really should have both for working on knives.

There are several threads about that forge. Here is one and I'll look for the other I know of. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/62360-pro-forge-200/ The other one I found was the thread about it you started back in May.???? Did you do all that was suggested in that thread?

Welcome Morke. Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST

The movie was Flubber, it was Robin Williams. A remake by Disney. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flubber_(film)

We like ours at about chest high. That way you are not tempted to stare into it which is not good for the eyes, unless using IR glasses which change the color of the work. Standing back several steps the chamber is visible at a quick glance. I find it easier to retrieve the small stock at that height.

That was/is a great movie. The Absent Minded Professor. The remake Flubber didn't live up to it.

Actually I used the broken handle on another hammer with a smaller eye. Now I have 2 hammers with a connection to my grandfather.

I'm not usually an emotional person but when I saw that chip & crack it brought tears to my eyes. I had the same response when the handle on my favorite cross peen that was handed down to me by my grandfather broke & had to be replaced. BTW... just sent you a PM. Randy

That is absolutely stunning. Это абсолютно потрясающе.