Jasent

Just an up date. @JHCC the hardy works great. And yes I made that on my vertical rail other than upsetting in the the hardy

I have found as little as 1.7 oz , 5oz and one pint . Thanks again for turning my light on while I stumbled in the dark. My supply's are ordered.

Thank you frosty. Data sheet was not in my search terms. I'll remember that one!

I was looking at colloidal silica in powder form to mix my self. I just don't want to get 100x more than I'll ever need or only half as much. With the kastolite I'm in the same boat. I haven't been able to find where it says coverage amounts or even how much a quart will make. Maybe I'm searching the wrong places or over looking the info. Thank you for your time

Thank you

Is there a formula for figuring out how much ridgedizer (colloidal silica) and refractory I'll need? 12 sqft of 1" koa wool that will be 2 layers

Very sorry to hear Thomas. I lost my grandpa(92) in May and my girlfriend lost her grandma yesterday. Thoughts and prayers for us all

Unfortunately lead wheel weights are being replaced with zinc or steel. Not so easy to come by lead WW these days.

I'll second the bucket mouse trap. They work great!

Love it. What did you make the guard from?

A2 Tool Steel is a versatile, air-hardening tool steel that is characterized by good toughness and excellent dimensional stability in heat treatment. A2 is intermediate in wear resistance between O1 oil-hardening tool steel and D2 high-carbon, high-chromium tool steel. A2 provides an effective combination of strength and toughness, tool performance, price, and a wide variety of product forms. APPLICATIONS: Punches and dies, chuck jaws, cutting tools for woodworking, tooling for plastic injection, dowel pins, hammers, industrial knives, and gage Mod note; edited

I have done some testing on springs from one mattress and it did harden and temper very nice. Use it as an engraving chisel.

Will do. Thanks for the heads up

Look what I found today. 1 5/8"X43" and 2.5"x40" hydraulic cylinder shaft. there is more where that came from. Also a chunk of 1.5" plate

Lump charcoal and not brickets works great

Maybe put put the ball valve on the side feeding the forge

if I had the dough I'd jump on it. Especially if it comes with dies.

Tagging for later. Thanks for sharing

@BrotnarOx if you have any questions on the air gate I'm happy to help

if possible I would change out your pipe to as large as you can. With charcoal you want low pressure and high flow. I used 2" with mine and a hair dryer on low with the above mentioned air gate from an electrical JB junction box. I cut a little over half the lip off the lid to allow it to swing open hinging on one screw.

Break up your charcoal in to walnut size chunks. Deeper fire as stated above. I would add an ash trap when you build the air gate.

This is similar to what I'm thinking for my latch system. I've worked with binders for so long I think I have a good grasp of how to make some. Easley made adjustable tension and quick to release

I have an 8lb like the top one. My research found it to be a ship maul

I have been thinking of cam locks as they hold very well and quick to release. I would change up the lifting leaver to be pointing up when relaxed cause I could see my self tripping over it trying to move around the anvil. Plenty of room for improvement in the design but a brilliant idea none the less. @stockmaker if you read threw the thread the sharp corners are brought up. Can't remember the reasoning though

I still have a lot of brain storming to do. Thanks again for all of your ideas