-Quint-

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About -Quint-

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/19/1974

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    New York City
  1. Careful trying to widen a blade too much. Unless you've upset the material where you want the blade wider (or are starting with a wider billet and drawing it down where it will be more narrow), then your wide part will be thinner than the rest of the blade and you'll have to do a lot of grinding on the narrow sections to get uniform thickness. In a kukhri style blade, you would want the opposite if you're straying from uniform thickness or distal taper. You'll want that belly thicker, if anything, since that is designed to be the point of impact of a chopper. When I want a blade with a forward belly I'll either start with wide stock and draw it out toward the tang, being very conscientious of keeping the thickness uniform, or upset where the belly will be. Then forge to shape and bevel. Your bevels will make it smile, so straighten as often as possible or you'll get a boomerang.
  2. If your vise jaws are halfway decent (mostly smooth and square), you can probably just clamp it in there, the jaws will act as heat sink and plates. If the jaws aren't great, a couple of pieces of angle iron draped over the jaws will give you flat surfaces. In fact if you have the angle iron, I'd use it whether the jaws are good or not. As others have said, A2 is air hardening, so don't get it too hot and try to avoid letting the heat get to the blade (use heat sinks, water, wet rag, whatever it takes). You can even clamp the knife in your vise with the blade down, jaws on the ricasso area and probably heat those small spots enough to move them without letting much heat get into the blade (the jaws will act as a heat sink and not much will make it to your ricasso. Then take 2 flat bars or some angle and a pair of vise grips and sandwich that handle right away.should be straight and flat once it cools. Just be careful, there's not much metal there.. if you try to torque it at all it looks like it could crease or just break altogether. Tempering in the oven is cool, just follow Buzzkills advice. I still say I'd weld it if it were mine! But i'm prone to breaking stuff.
  3. Not sure if I'd have the guts to do the three point trick (ive made myself a three point jig for my vise and use it, but never on anything anywhere near that thin. You may not be able to be gentle enough... As for heat, depends on your equipment. If you suspend it blade down in water (with the handle exposed) and can quickly and precisely get those two spots sort of hot , then quickly clamp it between two plates and let it cool, should come out flat and not ruin the heat treat on your blade. A2 is pretty resistant to changing at lower heats, so as long as you don't get it glowing (and you keep that blade cool!) I think you'd be alright. If it were my project, I'd probably put some sort of heat sink on the ricasso and WELD that area up a bit, inside and out, to strengthen it, then I'd grind it flat. It looks very thin there and if I were using it, I'd probably break it.
  4. That's a great idea, I've had an 8" length of 3-1/2" round 4140 laying around for a while now (it's heavy as hell), wasn't sure what I was going to do with it. I was thinking possibly a post anvil, but I would definitely get more use out of an upsetting block built into my anvil stand. Need to upgrade my anvil stand anyway now that I've "upgraded" my 130lb fisher to a 200lb Trenton. Now I just have to drill a 3-1/2" diameter hole 8" deep into a stump...
  5. Yes of course, here's a trophy from my last small game .45-70 hunt
  6. I don't remember exactly where I got it, possibly eBay? I had it quite a while before I started this knife. But the company Mr. Powers posted looks like an excellent source, I just googled it and checked it out. They have pieces that look exactly like what I started with. Moose crown is big though, so expect to make a BIG knife lol.
  7. As my mother always told me, "ain't nothin' wrong with ugly" I wonder why she always said that to me...
  8. I drill out what I can and then use files and these bad boys. Amazing how well they work on horn and bone. Then I soak the whole thing for 24 hrs in a cocktail of wood hardener, turpentine, whatever stain or dye I'm using and linseed oil.
  9. Yeah I'm definitely not done messing with the blade finish. I had it finished, then got a different idea in my head (almost put plunge lines in, glad I didn't) and briefly put it back on the grinder... then changed my mind about that and didn't take those grinder marks out yet. I'm waiting to finally make up my mind as far as what I want the finish to be, then I'll put on the finishing touches. Til then, it's staying this way. As for the blackening stuff, it's from a company called EPI (Electrochemical Products, Inc.) and the product is called SS370. I got it several years ago to experiment on my stainless .45-70 lever gun and it worked so well achieving the old time look that I was going for that I used it on my stainless Vaquero .45 colt revolver as well and I was very pleased. They're an industrial company and only sell the stuff in huge quantities but I had asked for a sample and they gladly sold me 2 small jars (2 different viscosities, one liquid, one more of a loose gel). Anyway, I experimented with it on other metals, including plain steel and it does wonderful things, that is if "antiquing" stuff is your thing.
  10. Thanks man I appreciate that, I keep trying different grits and finishes on the blade. I originally wanted more of a forge finish but all of my fiddling around wound up taking more of that off than I wanted to.This is how it looks now, I wanted a particular rough, old, used look to it. Left lots of marks in it and darkened it with some stainless steel blackening chemical I have. I'll probably refinish it a few more times lol. Went with a flat/convex grind after mostly forging the bevels to the finished geometry. Didn't want any plunge lines on this one, they can make a blade look too modern to me for some reason and I wanted this to look like it was found in the wilderness. It's full tang, heavy steel disk pommel set into the crown, cold peened on... what else, it's straight 5160, guard and pommel are mild steel. It's about 22" overall, 13-1/2" blade. It's BIG and heavy, but very well balanced.
  11. Made a little time recently for the first time in months. Here's a farrier rasp snake I made for my son and a big moose crown Bowie.
  12. Theo! Yes, I'll touch base with you this week, been crazy busy. I'd still like to join the fun one of these coming Mondays.
  13. Theo, I'd be honored to participate and do a demo. Monday's a tough day to juggle anything in, but shoot me a text and maybe I can work it out. -Cliff
  14. Got to see this one up close the other day, it's even nicer than it looks in the great photos. Excellent work Theo!