Sask Mark

Looks somewhat like a Brooks to me. Does that 580 pounds include the base perhaps?

My 450 pound Peter Wright is about 37" long.

Thanks Jake. My stuff is still pretty rudimentary, yet it's pretty satisfying to make something that so few of the general population understand. The most common question is 'How do you get those lines in the steel like that?'.

Jake, Here are a couple of pendants I made in my first foray into pattern welding: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/26597-hot-bluing-damascus/

John Newman from Hamilton, Ontario, Canada was casting and selling a trunion style block. I think I remember him saying they weren't selling well. He is a member on this board.

I have used MG 740 as was referenced by IFI member Junior Strasil in one of the blueprints with fairly good success.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/16-tailgating-buy-sell/

Thanks for posting these. I also have a 10" Atlas lathe that has similar issues that should be addressed.

IIRC, the number on the 3 digit number on the heal indicated a heat number. HB's were usually stamped with the weight (in pounds) under the name stamping.

1914 according to Anvils in America.

Brian Brazeal used to get coke from a refinery in Long Beach. Perhaps if you message him he can provide you with a source.

A structural steel contractor that I deal with has a double-walled tumbler with sand in between the walls to reduce the noise somewhat.

Page 65 of Anvils in America talks about 'North Star' anvils with those markings. Mr. Postman believes that one of the major Swedish manufacturers made them.

I can remeber 2 times since I joined when Glenn had a fundraising drive. It was purely voluntary and there was no penalties or rewards for contributing or not contributing. Glenn was extremely fair about it and, if memory serves, the fundraising goals were met. I would gladly donate again if another fundraising drive was held.

I've seen propylene glycol (phosphate based) used at a 40% concentration. That gives an approximate temperature range of -36C to 104C.

Very nice!

Salt is only effective a few degrees below freezing. We get -30 C weather fairly routinely during the winter and salt does nothing to stop snow and ice buildup at those temperatures. The hydronic heating combined with a herringbone finish to the concrete and a drainage trench at the bottom of the ramp are the common ways to battle the ice/snow.

Glycol is used in the hydronic systems around here.

Basically, rigid insulation extends horizontally (slightly sloping away from the building) at the bottom of the grade beam. This probably wouldn't be required in your area. I have seen this used for shops that work on heavy equipment where I live. The frost level here can go down 6' below grade, especially if heavy equipment drives on the ground in freezing conditions. The idea of this insulation skirt is to try to reduce the amount of frost that extends under the grade beam and under the slab. I looked through my archived drawings and couldn't find this detail but, like I said, I don't think it's something you need to worry about in Oregon. As for material pricing, we pay around $3/sf for something like 2" Dow SM styrofoam. If you are going to put some heavy loads on the concrete and are worried about crushing the insulation, then something like a Hi-40 foam might be more suitable. It has a much higher compressive strength than regular foams. This stuff is also usually quite a bit more expensive. IIRC, we pay around $5+/sf for this product. I recently bid on a job that has a hydronically heated ramp entrance to an underground parkade. Here is a section through the slab from the structural drawings. Please note all the dimensions are in millimeters. It will give you an idea of the typical slab construction where I live (5+ months of freezing conditions, highly expansive clay native soils). In-slab heating section.pdf I'm not going to provide any costs for the system itself as there are too many variables. If you want you can tie the pex in when you pour your slab and cap the ends of the pex. That will give you the flexibility to add a heating system later for little up-front cost. Just be sure to test the pex before you pour the concrete (pressure test as mentioned earlier).

The pex is usually tied to the underside of the rebar mats. If you make sure the pex runs right underneath the rebar, there is less chance of striking it when you drill for your anchors. Ideally you would know where your equipment will be placed and tie the anchor bolts for the equipment right into the rebar cages before you pour your concrete. But, as Mainely Bob suggests, larger equipment should be on dedicated foundations that don't require heating. When insulating, the insulation should not only run under the slab, but you want to isolate the slab from the grade beam/foundation wall so the wall doesn't become a heat sink. I have seen designs where there is a skirt of insulation extending 4' outside of the grade beam as well. Depending on your slab area and application, you might want to break up the heating into zones.

Congratulations and thanks for all your contributions Mr. Turley. Your constructive support in many areas is appreciated.

Best of luck to Mr. Sprado.

40# 1889 40# 1921 350ish# Sawyers pattern 1937

Best of luck Dan.