arkie

GottMitUns, One method some auto repair folks use on stuck bolts/nuts is to heat with a torch then spray with some solvent such as PB Blaster, sometimes as much as nearly red hot. Smokes a lot, but the cooling sucks the penetrant into the threads and will often release the stuck component. Don't know if you would want to heat any part of your down-hole tool that hot, but maybe something below black heat.

Frosty, I started out hanging my hammers and tongs from bar stock, but soon found out that the bar stock edges were chewing up my hammer handles. I took the bar stock off, rounded the edges and re-installed. Still chewed up the handles. :( I changed out all the hammer hanging stock to 3/8" and 1/2" round bar, but left the tong bars as is. Hanging the hammers on wood racks kinda like Michael showed would also prevent chewing up the handles.

Nice work! Great that you were able to help them out with the replacement. Should last a lot longer than cast iron. :)

That's the way things work out more often than not, it seems... :( All to often, I spend more $ on repairs than a new item would cost.

Stormcrow, take it easy in that SAT heat! I lived there a few years and it can be BRUTAL! Good luck with the knives. :)

DSW, You probably already know about these Portaband holders, but just in case...Swag Offroad makes some. http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Portaband-Tables-Accessories_c_35.html

Go ahead and put in your regular oven...pretend you're baking a cake. I use my wife's oven all the time...no problems. Maybe next time I'll get her to stick a cake in it along with the steel; might as well conserve some energy :)

Hannes, you might start a new trend....forging on the beach!!! :D Crank up some Beach Boys classics and forge ahead!!

Try to find a source of bituminous coal. Anthracite doesn't work well in solid fuel forges.

Great anvil, H-B's. One thing you can do...check the rebound with a steel ball bearing if you can, or, gentle drop with a ball pein hammer, handle pinched between thumb and finger (latter with the owner's permission, of course). $3 per pound might be considered a bit high by some, but if it's in mint condition may be worth it. A 108 would be okay for lighter work, but not real heavy forging. I paid $2.25/lb. for a 170# H-B in very good condition.

The Haitian fellow was a pretty innovative fabricator! No heat, all cold albeit thin stuff. I took note of how he curled the sheet metal at the beginning...pretty simple and effective. Will try that for sure. Looked like maybe he was hammering in the gap on some C-channel iron.

I too use a bathroom exhaust fan on my brake drum forge. Blows sufficiently strong enough that I usually only open my blast gate on 2" black iron pipe 1/4 to 1/2 way open. Full open will only burn too much coal and burn too much steel :wacko:

Good job, Hannes. x2 with Frosty; glad you went with a new firebox instead of trying to patch the old one...it was in pretty bad shape. Enjoy and forge ahead!

Great video! Bookmarked that for sure! You made the various steps so clear and easy to follow.

Some dye experts may wade in here...but with my limited knowledge, some fabrics (not leather) soaked in salt water will set the dyes. Don't know if that would work with leather. Suggest you call a leather store like Tandy or some other. Plain water won't hurt it. If it gets stiff, just run it over the edge of a board.

SmoothBore, good observation. If I were ever to make any kind of stand for something like that, it would only be a "three-legger". On uneven surfaces, four legs will almost never be stable, but three legs always will be. Goes for stools, too. :)

Well, I just tossed my wax ring in the plumbing parts box in the shop. No need to try to use it for steel coatings. Will save it for the next leaky toilet (hope that is a LLLOOONNNGGGG time!

Not complaining (yet :) ). Just mentioning the size I might be working with. Will certainly heed your advice, thanks.

These truck springs are only 1/2" to 3/4" round (don't recall the actual size, would have to measure...raining outside). Been using pieces for punches and drifts.

You can get slotted cast iron drain grates at McMaster-Carr. I have been using the slotted ones in my drum forge. Since most of your air will be coming straight up through the pipe (least resistance), ash and coke will accumulate around the periphery of the inside of the fire in the drum and seal off any significant air around it. Get the thickest and largest diameter you can. http://www.mcmaster.com/#drain-grating/=t6cz2z

Thomas, that's a great idea. Why is it that we seem to have this burning need (pun intended) to make round things square and square things round? I've got some big truck coil springs and might use them for my next vise spring. Your observation would make for less work and maybe a better vise spring.

esse, Some have suggested making some tongs by the twist method. I made my first set of tongs using the "Dempsey Twist" method and still use them today. Pretty much bullet-proof and very easy to make. Good start for beginner tongs and will build your confidence. http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor.php?lesson=jd_tongs/demo I would recommend 3/8" x 3/4" or 3/8" x 1" hot rolled steel (A36) bars. Just remember that when you twist the jaws in your vise to do both the same direction!! Another mod on Dempsey's method I made was not to fuller the reins out with a fuller, but you can quickly run them out fullering on your horn...MUCH faster. Also, don't run out your reins much past red heat, or you'll get cracks. For starters, don't worry about punching the rivet holes; just drill them. You can learn punching later. I used 3/8" rod for my rivets. And...to add to what Frosty said; use them to work with, don't worry about "pretty" for now. Most of my tongs are b**t ugly!! Here's my first set with the Dempsey method...I later adjusted the jaws for a certain size grip. Go make some tongs!!!!!

Seems like 3/16" is a bit thin for tongs. I would use thicker stock.

Frosty, that's a good tip! Possibly another benefit of the tapered slots/holes is that the taper narrowing upwards would slightly increase the air velocity.

Jim, thanks for the info. I'm surprised that 1/4" would hold up very long. I didn't give my 1/4" disc a long run. Had other problems with it and changed over after a very short while. It may have worked out OK after all. I've got plenty of 1/4" plate, but would have to scrounge up the 1/2".