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Found 12 results

  1. Hi all, Thanks for all the great posts am learning a lot. I have a question if you don't mind. Just went to the local junk yard (am in India) and the guys sold me a what they say to be a JCB axle but it looks a bit different. Definitely hard stuff, but it is rounded on one end (4 inch diameter) and 2 inches on the other end. Diameter is 4 inches if I cut the either end off. It is about just under two feet long with an indentation (section cut out 7inch by4inch) that could be used as an anvil but on edge it really does have an amazing rebound and ring. On flat well it is flat. But my question is should I cut into it. What about the heat treat if any? At what point can it be damaged. Would be great to know. All the best, David.
  2. Making a machete with a unique design. The guy at the welding shop turned me on to some stuff he said they make pressure vessels out of. being as that i am kind of new at the knifemaking game and can't find a reasonably priced knifemaking steel plates It tempered out pretty well it is seriously springy and tough. I am a pretty big guy but cannot bend it more than a half an inch "handle, blade will not bend at all" without it snapping back into place. like i said tough XXXXXX but can't seem to get a really good edge on it. Then again i was never one to really pull a scary edge on a knife. i mean it can cut paper with no problem but i can't get it shaving sharp plus the edge can only achieve a grainy sharpness nothing more. Can anyone tell me where i am going wrong?? or where i can buy reasonably priced knifemaking steel plate without ordering something from china which i don't want do. preferably 12x24 inch to make these out of?? If anyone here would like. i can repeat the process in a small blade and send to them to test. if interested. really would appreciate some input
  3. What do you think...? The Story I was given used/discard planer blades that I wanted to anneal and use as raw material for other items (e.g. little knife blades). They are M2 High Speed Steel. I have been reading a lot of information about using scrap steel from this and that--I really like the idea of repurposing material that would otherwise be thrown away. For example: It apparently use to be true that you could get saw blades from a mill and cut them up to make tools. After looking into the thermal treatment guidelines for M2 steel I think I would be better off buying an appropriate material. I am starting to think that the info I've read that questions the wisdom and economics of trying to use "unknown steels" may be more right than I had hoped. That trying to use "scrap" is likely to be a frustrating, often fruitless, and maybe even dangerous activity. I will appreciate your thoughts and experience with using discarded material -- especially as it relates to the Anchorage and The Valley regions of Alaska. ------------------------------------------ M2 High Speed Steel Thermal Treatments HEAT TREATING INSTRUCTIONS HARDENING Critical Temperature: Ac1: 1530°F (832°C) Ac3: 1610°F (877°C) Ar1: 1430°F (777°C) Ar3: 1380°F (749°C) Preheating: To minimize distortion and stresses in large or complex tools use a double preheat. Heat at a rate not exceeding 400°F per hour (222°C per hour) to 1100°F (593°C) equalize, then heat to 1450-1550°F (788-843°C). For normal tools, use only the second temperature range as a single preheating treatment. Austenitizing (High Heat): Heat rapidly from the preheat. For Cutting Tools: Furnace: 2200-2250°F (1204-1232°C) Salt: 2175-2225°F (1191-1218°C) To maximize toughness, use the lowest temperature. To maximize hot hardness, use the highest temperature. For punches, dies, and tools that require maximum toughness without hot hardness: Furnace: 2075-2175°F (1175-1191°C) Salt: 2050-2150°F (1121-1177°C) Quenching: Pressurized gas, warm oil, or salt. For pressurized gas, a rapid quench rate to below 1000°F (538°C) is critical to obtain the desired properties. For oil, quench until black, about 900°F (482°C), then cool in still air to 150 -125°F (66-51°C). For salt maintained at 1000-1100°F (538-593°C), equalize, then cool in still air to 150 -125°F (66-51°C). Tempering: Temper immediately after quenching. Typical tempering range is 1025-1050°F (552-566°C). Hold at temperature for 2 hours, then air cool to ambient temperature. Double tempering is required. For large cross sections, and especially for blanks from which tools will be cut by wire EDM, triple tempering is strongly recommended. ANNEALING Annealing must be performed after hot working and before re-hardening. Heat at a rate not exceeding 400°F per hour (222°C per hour) to 1525-1550°F (829-843°C), and hold at temperature for 1 hour per inch (25.4 mm) of thickness, 2 hours minimum. Then cool slowly with the furnace at a rate not exceeding 50°F per hour (28°C per hour) to 1000°F (538°C). Continue cooling to ambient temperature in the furnace or in air. The resultant hardness should be 248 HBW or lower.
  4. I am looking for a way to measure the temperature of my steel in the forge and wanted to see if anyone in the forums has experience with an IR temperature sensor. In particular, this is the current listing on Amazon.com that I am considering: http://www.amazon.com/Handheld-Non-Contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Targeting/dp/B007EYX0TS/ref=sr_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395934068&sr=1-17&keywords=high+temperature+type+k The temperature measurement range is -58-3002F and also has a thermocouple input channel. If anyone has experience with this unit, please let provide some feedback.
  5. I've spent quite a bit of time looking on the heat treating forum and on other forums on this sight. I can't figure out a general tempering time for a knife. I know a guy who used to make knives for TOPS Knives and he said that the knife i made would probably take anywhere from two to three hours to temper. I'll post a picture of the knife when i can find a picture of it. I also don't know what kind of steel the knife's made of. The steel came from an old style pitchfork and that's all i know about it.
  6. ReactorForge

    Temperature Curve

    Tempering Temperature Curve Example

    © ReactorForge

  7. ReactorForge

    Heat treat block example

    Induction heat treating (wrap flexible litz wire around work piece, affix thermocouple, wrap with insulation).

    © ReactorForge

  8. First time posting here. This is a great site and good resource. I had some questions about differential tempering. I see alot of people on this site talking about heating their steel in an oven at certain temps (dependant on what kind of steel it is) in order to temper them. Twice at 2 hours at a time at whatever temp is appropriate for their steel, seems to be standard. This should make the entire blade one temp. and thus not be differential tempered. At home Ive been tempering with a butane torch, running the colors from the spine to the edge. I'll do this twice, generally, and so far the results have been good. My edge retention is passable, I've been able to chop through a 2x4 and still shave some hairs off my arm, but I haven't been able to bend a knife more than about 30 degrees in my post vice, without it snapping. I try to get the edge to be medium/dark straw, with the spine as blue as I can. All this is with 1095 i've been getting from Jantz. How can I do this better? When other people use the oven temper method, is there another step I am missing that they will do in order to achieve a differential temper? Is a differential temper really all that important or am I waisting my time? Thanks in advance.
  9. Is it possible to make a blade stay blue after quenching? I just watched a video that showed Tony Swatton heat treat a sword made out of 5160 spring steel to a blue temper and then when the sword was completely finished it was still that same blue color. I am new to blacksmithing and the heat treating process but from all my research I did not think that was possible. So my question is is it possible? and if it is how is it done? The part in question is at 3:58
  10. Hey guys, I am BRAND NEW to the knife making thing, and this forum seems like a perfect place to get help. I am starting with stock removal. I bought some steel for about $5 online and was wondering if I get a few tips on hardening. I was wondering if I can use the oven in my house?
  11. I'm trying to harden and temper a tomahawk made from a ball peen hammer head. I have no idea when or from what the head was made from. I assume tool steel, definetely carbon steel. It was heavily rusted when I rescued it. I don't have an original picture but I have a couple after the first session. I annealed it and want to get it back to at least it's original hardness. I'm not sure what temp or how long to oven temper it. I'm considering a coal forge tempering and quench. Do you quench when you bring a piece out of the oven when tempering? I've been reading a little on this but I have not found a lot on oven tempering. Thanks in advance for any advice. This is the first piece I'm really trying to get the hardness and toughness right. The guy I'm making the hawk for says it's for display but I think it might get used, especially by his three boys. Here are some in process pics. I thought I would add some pics but for some reason I cannot upload them. I tried both loaders but no luck. Thanks, BTKS
  12. Well the top line about sums it up, I forged out 2 hawks, out of 2 rail road spikes. I quenched both of them, but it seems to me that neither of them got very hard. I read somewhere that spikes where 1095 carbon or along those lines. I used one old spike and a fairly new one. I quenched in water, not oil. I did a fair bit of grinding to knock of the scale to temper it, it didn't get over 175 degrees in grinding. I put an edge on one just to see the hardness, and it wasn't very hard at all. What'd I do wrong?