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Everything posted by PaperPatched

  1. Looks like a de-thatching rake used on lawns.
  2. Some clog-resistant long life sandpapers have a stearate wax coat on the paper. Did you use something new/different to do the post hardening sanding?
  3. I guess you would flock together!
  4. You guys seem kind of flighty. Are you all full fledged members?
  5. This is certainly a small power hammer. The builder has it for sale, but claims it needs a larger drill to power it. I guess necessity really is the mother of invention.
  6. I've used 3M "Safest Stripper" to remove 3 coats of old 1950's oil based enamel from furniture. I brushed on a thick coat and let it sit over night. In the morning I brushed a little more on areas that had started to dry, went and ate breakfast, came back and scraped off the three layers. As the stripper is water based I used hot water and a scrub brush to remove the last stubborn bits. Check with your local regulations on disposal. Here we have to let the scrapped off goo dry and then wrap in a couple of layers of 4 mil poly and it can go in the weekly trash pickup.
  7. He also said that in the cause of mutual trust and respect he would abide by the forum rules. If we start banning people for what they think there might not be nearly as many folks here as there are now. It's actions that we will see that should govern our response.
  8. That looks like plenty of adjustment. Please check the three fixed pulleys for alignment with a large framing square and straight edges. A straight edge laid across the flat side of any two of the three pulleys (if they are the same thickness) should any misalignment.
  9. It looks like you have the essentials. But could you show us a closer picture of the tracking wheel and how it adjusts (without the belt on the machine). My guess is that you just need to make the tracking wheel have a larger degree of adjustment. Also, the second picture makes it look like the drive pulley is not aligned with the platen pulley. If that is indeed the case fix that first.
  10. Your local Benjamin Moore dealer will have access to Insul-X LFR-110 fire retardant latex paint. Most paint dealers order once or twice a week this time of year. Price will vary from approx. $ 75.00 to $110.00 or so. So, I'd call more than one dealer and see what they will do for you.
  11. It may be the continental difference, but stateside it's Molybdenum disulfide for anyone trying to look it up .
  12. You did a great job helping out the two boys who were trying to make a chain Damascus billet at the green coal area. I learned a lot watching. I think you would make a great presenter/teacher should you ever choose to do so.
  13. I was given a binocular dissecting microscope discarded from a trade school . It and my dissecting kit from school are my splinter removal tools (along with a super magnet). The microscope was used to tune up a few different types of tweezers. Most tweezers look pretty bad under magnification: the ends typically don't align well, and they often do not close at the tip. A tune up involves getting the tip lengths to match, align, and close at the very tip. Many tweezers are useless as bought. a tune up and slim down make them into something useful.
  14. Get the things you either can't find elsewhere, or that go for collector prices on Ebay. Tell the smith what you want to do. Ask his advice on what will be most useful to you. I'd skip the belt grinder as you can build one that is the equal of a $3000.00 machine if either you or your buddy have a little mechanical ability and can weld, and can drill and tap a hole. True it may end up costing you $500 to $700 depending of scrounging abilities, but you can space out the required purchases of time so as to not strain the budget too much at one time. Skipping the 3-phase motor and VFD at first and using step pulleys will keep your cost way down. Check YouTube. Get a notebook and make a list of all the best features of the different builds that you see and use those in your build. Build something that has work platforms that interchange separately from the wheel/platen assembly for greater versatility.
  15. How about some loose leaf binders in addition to the board displays? They could be organized in sections perhaps by which wall the tool was displayed on. Use vinyl covered binders for durability/clean ability, and clear vinyl page protectors. Save your computer files and it will be easy to print a replacement page when one gets too worn. Put it on a tilt top pedestal stand.
  16. It looks like a good start to a patch knife for a muzzle loader.
  17. Re; #2, See here: Link removed as there are several new post vises being sold today. There is another, but I can't find the link.
  18. You could also sink the existing steel wedge a bit with a small punch, as it looks a bit "proud" (raised above) of the surface of the wood.
  19. This is a serious subject...I wouldn't make cellulite of it!
  20. I can draw file the edge of all my axes and hatchets; some with a degree of difficulty (depending on the hardness of the file used). The one axe I cut down and reformed the eye of came out so hard that a good file would barely nick it. I broke a corner off that one and had to re-do it and temper it softer. Tomahawks are going to get thrown. Sooner or later you'll catch your target with a corner at an angle and if too hard you'll break off a chunk. Alan
  21. Penetrol by Flood claims it can be used as a metal finish over rusty metal. I have not tried that yet. My usage has been confined to mixing Penetrol with Zar wiping stain to rejuvenate by pine floors every year.
  22. The hammer is 1-1/2 inches across the large face, and 1 inch across the smaller face. And 8-1/4 inches face-to-face. Handle length is 10-3/8 inches long. The weight is about 4-1/2 pounds.
  23. I found this a couple of weeks ago at a local flea market for a few dollars. There are no identifying marks. Does anyone know its original use. And any suggestions for smithing use as is or modified? Thanks!
  24. Hello, A friend gave me this vise yesterday and I can't find any identifying marks on it. The vise is 20 inches in overall length, with 5" jaws (with fine diagonal serrations). Any ideas on who made it? Thanks for your help!