PaperPatched

Re; #2, See here: Link removed as there are several new post vises being sold today. There is another, but I can't find the link.

You could also sink the existing steel wedge a bit with a small punch, as it looks a bit "proud" (raised above) of the surface of the wood.

This is a serious subject...I wouldn't make cellulite of it!

I can draw file the edge of all my axes and hatchets; some with a degree of difficulty (depending on the hardness of the file used). The one axe I cut down and reformed the eye of came out so hard that a good file would barely nick it. I broke a corner off that one and had to re-do it and temper it softer. Tomahawks are going to get thrown. Sooner or later you'll catch your target with a corner at an angle and if too hard you'll break off a chunk. Alan

Penetrol by Flood claims it can be used as a metal finish over rusty metal. I have not tried that yet. My usage has been confined to mixing Penetrol with Zar wiping stain to rejuvenate by pine floors every year.

The hammer is 1-1/2 inches across the large face, and 1 inch across the smaller face. And 8-1/4 inches face-to-face. Handle length is 10-3/8 inches long. The weight is about 4-1/2 pounds.

I found this a couple of weeks ago at a local flea market for a few dollars. There are no identifying marks. Does anyone know its original use. And any suggestions for smithing use as is or modified? Thanks!

Hello, A friend gave me this vise yesterday and I can't find any identifying marks on it. The vise is 20 inches in overall length, with 5" jaws (with fine diagonal serrations). Any ideas on who made it? Thanks for your help!

Solberg (USA) makes a line of "Filter Silencers". I just purchased one on Amazon for my newly purchased Lister diesel generator, but won't have the unit running until late spring (New England). So, no information on the degree on intake noise suppression yet. The filter silencers are used in industry, and come in a wide variety of sizes, cubic feet per minute capacity, and prices.

Hello, I bought an approx. (Weigh truck. put on anvil, weigh truck) 383 Lb. sawyers anvil this spring. It's 6-5/16" x 12-1/2" on the top, 12-1/2" x 16-1/2" at the base. The top steel plate is 5/8" thick. No date. Pictures in Show me your Anvil : '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>>

You may want to reserve using brine for only certain classes of work. In the paint world not even sandblasting to the brightest industrial standards will remove all the salt that imbeds in the steel of bridges in our harsh New England winters, So, when re-paint time comes the painting specifications will usually call for some special wash after sandblasting to try to remove the chloride ions that remain lodged in the pores of the steel after sandblasting. If the chloride is painted over it will form "osmotic blisters" (draws some moisture right through the paint film and starts corroding, eventually causing the paint to flake off the blister). I only deal with residential and light commercial paints at work and my auto hobby caused me to do some reading on dealing with rust on car and truck frames. There are some very good DTM (direct to metal-no primer) paints on the market. I have one on our clothesline posts that my wife and my mother in law applied the year before my daughter was born. So I can date the paint job to 1985. In the last couple of years a small amount of rust has formed where the cross bar pipe was drilled for eyebolts. The rest of the paint is fine. The only complication is that that paint is no longer made, and has had two replacements, the last only a couple of years ago, so not much history yet. I painted the frame and underside of my truck last year with the latest version. I hope it is as good as in the past. If we have a member trained in industrial painting we my be able to get some more information; and are very likely to be teased with some products that we can't obtain. Also, to clear up something in a previous post: mineral spirits (white spirits in the UK) is distilled for crude oil and has a somewhat higher solvent ability than turpentine. Turpentine is distilled from the sap of pine trees. I much prefer the odor of turpentine, and it is an ingredient in some older formulas for paints and polishes, but it is of lower solvent ability (doesn't clean paint brushes as well) and dries considerably slower, and can leave somewhat of an oily residue. If you have any expensive natural bristle brushes turpentine is less harsh and will lengthen their lifespan versus cleaning in mineral spirits.

I had been looking and using the TRAAAT method for a month when I visited the local pre-owned metals dealer. One of their employees had informed them that I was looking for an anvil. I was searching for a London pattern anvil, but they showed me out to the yard and a saw makers anvil. A deal was struck that involved cash and a promise to print some photographs on my pigment inkjet printer and to make a custom knife sheath. The truck scale said 383 lbs. I didn't mind commiting to some future work considering that I ended up paying under a dollar a pound. It's 6-5/16" x 12-1/2" on the top, 12-1/2" x 16-1/2" at the base. The top steel plate is 5/8" thick. It does not ring at all, and a ball bearing dropped at 12" rebounds to 10". I can read most of "Fisher" on one end, but the logo is almost unrecognizeable. It's in such good shape that I don't really want to beat on it, and will probably continue to use my approx. 75 Lb. 1940's excavator (steamshovel?) tooth for rough work. I'm still a beginner; I've made kit knives, a few stock removal knives, and the last one a Finnish style forged Puukko. I enjoyed that so much that I want to do more!

The salt he was using was calcium chloride. It's used in some commercial humidity-adsorbers.