PaperPatched

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About PaperPatched

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Central Massachusetts
  • Interests
    Photography, Hybridizing Daylilies

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1,711 profile views
  1. Ticks and Lyme Disease

    Here is a link to a very informative article about testing for Lyme disease and its possible relationship to other diseases: http://boston.cbslocal.com/2017/09/29/nightside-a-new-perspective-on-lyme-disease/?e=tteo5fmMDwDwSA&utm_source=email&utm_medium=email&utm_content=11385&utm_campaign=daily-news-headlines-recommended--9 Click the right pointing arrow in the circle, located on the bottom left of the image to start the program.
  2. I found this bar/block of steel 3" x 3-1/2" x 13 inches at a scrap yard yesterday and couldn't resist at 20 cents per pound. I have not tried any spark test on it but as you can see in the photo it has some numbers written on it, a lot probably relating to some job. I can make out AMS 5643 and H1075 . Researching on line these leads to information on heat treating 17-4 stainless (one hour at 900 degree F and air cool yields Rockwell C 44). The steel is magnetic, but noticeably less so that the jaws of the vise to the left. It was sold to me as generic steel rather than stainless which would have been five times more money. It would be a rare thing for this yard to miss identify some steel. I think it looks like a vertical portable anvil once a base is fabricated Any thoughts?
  3. Hex Forge - idea for your review

    Mikey, The Ceramic Shop dot com in Norristown, PA has the 4" x 6" kiln shelves. I just looked and their smallest is 2" x 6" Alan
  4. Hex Forge - idea for your review

    If you want to keep something off the floor of the forge there are all sorts of "kiln furniture" items available. such things as small cubes, triangles, short cylinders, as well as kiln shelves that are as small as 4" x 6". All of these would be low profile, and would be removable and re-position able. Alan
  5. Cleanup of Champion 400 Gearcase

    Here are a couple of photos showing the improvised bracket. The round rod shown is welded to the base plate and the jaw to the right and serves as a pivot point for the movable jaw to the left. Each jaw (cut from a segment of heavy wall tubing) has a rib (cut from the same tubing) on the inside. There is a sheet of thick cork gasket between the blower and clamp, and the two bolts draw the clamp together.
  6. Cleanup of Champion 400 Gearcase

    It will go faster if you physically remove as much grease as possible before you start with the solvent. I use cotton rags and something like a paint stirring paddle. For solvent I use undiluted orange oil cleaner, but kerosene or mineral spirits (paraffin or white spirits) will do the job although be less pleasant to work with. From what I've read you should not put grease back in there. It's too thick and will make the blower hard to crank. Oil is the preferred lube. Be very gentle with the fan its delicate. And watch for loose ball bearings! There are some comprehensive guides to a restoring Champion 400 available if you search. There are some YouTube videos also. If yours did not come with a stand feel free to contact me and I'll let you know how I built the bracket to hold the blower. Alan
  7. Weight of Fisher sawers anvil

    I have one similar to yours. The dimensions of mine are 6-5/16" x 12-1/2 inches on the top, and 12-1/2 x 16-1/2 inches on the bottom. I had posted pictures in Show Me Your Anvils, but they were lost courtesy of Photo Pail, so I'll repost one here. This anvil was weighed in the back of my truck on a drive on scale at a local scrap yard and was 383 pounds:
  8. Worst I have seen

    Thomas, you left out "Vintage". It's very popular in listings here in New England.
  9. Horizontal/Vert or Porta Bandsaw

    I have both the HF portable and the generic 4x6 saw. I use the portable to reduce the size of stock to get it ready for the 4x6 and to sometimes cut off a piece that wont quite fit the 4x6. The 4x6 may need some tweaking to perform to its potential (there is a lot of info on the web, including a 4x6 specific group.), but once set up and then equipped with a quality blade (I use variable pitch Olsen blades, Starretts have a good reputation too.) you will be able to clamp in thick, heavy, and bulky sections that would test your stamina with the portable. Then there is the issue of grinding time. I think I have reasonably good hand-eye control, but I can't get straight enough cuts to suit me with the portable and so I then often get to spend some quality time with one of my grinders. I'd rather spend that time drilling, tapping, filing, welding, etc. while the 4x6 purs away in the background (best to not leave the 4x6 unattended as a jam can lead to a burnt out Chinese motor at best. I've only had one jam when I was too lazy to change to a coarser blade when cutting some 1/4" thick copper plate.). Also, consider the order of things. You have approval to get a band saw. Spend the money for the 4x6 now, enjoy its use, put away a little now and the for the portable. If you get the portable first it will be a harder sell to get the 4x6. If you get the 4x6 go investigate the information online. There is a lot out there on performance tweaks, and on the construction of various attachments and jigs to solve cutting problems. As you can probably tell I love my 4x6. It has saved more time and physical effort that any other tool I own with the exception of my woodworking table saw.
  10. It followed me home

    Looks like a de-thatching rake used on lawns.
  11. Damascus etching help

    Some clog-resistant long life sandpapers have a stearate wax coat on the paper. Did you use something new/different to do the post hardening sanding?
  12. Nc anvil

    I guess you would flock together!
  13. Nc anvil

    You guys seem kind of flighty. Are you all full fledged members?
  14. Mini hammer

    This is certainly a small power hammer. The builder has it for sale, but claims it needs a larger drill to power it. I guess necessity really is the mother of invention.
  15. Removing lead paint from salvaged stock

    I've used 3M "Safest Stripper" to remove 3 coats of old 1950's oil based enamel from furniture. I brushed on a thick coat and let it sit over night. In the morning I brushed a little more on areas that had started to dry, went and ate breakfast, came back and scraped off the three layers. As the stripper is water based I used hot water and a scrub brush to remove the last stubborn bits. Check with your local regulations on disposal. Here we have to let the scrapped off goo dry and then wrap in a couple of layers of 4 mil poly and it can go in the weekly trash pickup.