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I Forge Iron


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    Cooking, computers, and knives.

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  1. Found a holland swage on ebay, then found your website, where it was a little cheaper, then came to iforgeiron to checkout reviews on it. Not bad when the manufacturer is on the forum. I'll be honest, when I saw the price I also thought for a split second about buying a few extra and selling them locally at a mark-up. I'll stick with just showing it off at the local blacksmithing guild (assuming I like the product, but it seems good.) Now I just need to decide which model I want.
  2. I actually have Plistix, and this is a bit off topic, but where is the best place to get more. Hard Knock Forge, where I got my original bag from, seems to have been out of stock for a while.
  3. I may try a lined Kaowool plug, see if I can make a removable one. Thanks everyone!
  4. Not sure, works well though, I've made Damascus billets in it, and the outside is still cool.
  5. I bought all the things I needed to build a better forge than the cobbled together fire-brick/Frosty T-burner I started with, but while looking for used #100 propane tank, I found someone selling a barley used custom forge together will a full #100 tank. It was only $100 more than a new full tank so I pulled the trigger. Problem is, its much larger than I was looking for/need. The dimensions are 16" long, 6" inner diameter/ Its forced air, with the burner right in the middle, and 3" of refractory all around it. So far I have done one long (20" total length) knife where I actually was glad of the length, but usually its way overkill. It actually runs pretty efficient once it gets up to heat, I go from 4-10 PSI depending on what I'm doing. Is there anything I could do to improve the efficiency? There were 2 things I was going to try. 1. Add a coat of ITC-100 or something similar. 2. Build a removeble 'plug' to put in the back 6 inches. I have Kaowool and mizzou refractory I could use to do this. Would either/both of those increase the efficiency? Then again, there is also option 3: Build the forge I was originally planning on, and save this monster for the rare occasions when I need it, but I would rather put the limited time I have into working metal, and my shop is too small, and I don't think I could put anything else in it. Thoughts/comments are appreciated.
  6. Buy it before I do. That is a steal.
  7. I have seen a (very) few reviews for the OBM surface grinder, but all of them were people that had just gotten it with initial impressions. https://originblademaker.com/product/belt-grinder-2x72-attachment/ I have their grinder, and have been pleased with it. The surface grinder appeals to me because I mostly make Damascus and knifes, and spend way to much time getting my steel into consistent bar stock, plus, I have a tiny shop with too many tools already, so being able to just have an attachment instead of a whole new machine is a big plus. Does anyone have experience using these over a longer period of time? Do the last and do what they are meant to? I don't care too much about exact precision as long as it will give consistent flat results and save me time. Are the worth the price(way cheaper than any stone grinder). Thanks,
  8. The forge weld went fine, working on getting everything in shape. My dad takes pretty good care of his tools, but since it is a garden tool I worry it might rust quickly. Is this something I should worry about, and if so is there some kind of coating/treatment I can do at home?
  9. My only other steel long enough is a piece of 1095, which I am not going to be able to heat treat very well and is not ideal for the purposes, or mystery old lumber saw.
  10. Mediocre, I've made a few small Damascus billets fine, but thats about it. My MIG welding skills are a little better, but nothing to brag about.
  11. I think I'm going to make one this style, problem is, my stock is not long enough. I'm thinking I will tack 2 pieces of 1080 at a 90 angle to form the V, and then forge weld them together. Anyone have a reason why that would be a bad idea?
  12. My dad really wants a hand-forged push-pull hoe for his birthday, so I get to try something new. First of all, what steel should I use. I have 1080, 52100, mystery-metal in an old lumber saw, and somewhere some 5160 that is really thick and will be a pain to forge by hand. I need to order some steel soon as well, so I could get anything that isn't too expensive. Second, does anyone know a good way to attach the how to a handle? My thought was to use a garage spring, and weld it to the hoe, then weld that to a "cup-sleeve" (I'm sure there is a better term for this) and put a rivet through the sleeve/wood, but am open to suggestions. Thanks!
  13. I have an quite old HF drill press which is wasting me money. I mostly make knifes, and its taking me too long and costing me too much in damaged drill bits going through annealed metal. I have to go at higher speeds than I should, because at lower speeds it just stalls at the first contact. Someone is selling a Firestorm Drill Press near me for $50. Will this be any better than my HF, and if so, good enough to drill through annealed blade steel? If not, how powerful of a drill should I get?
  14. I am trying to make a Yanagi-ba(sushi knife) for the first time. I've got the blade rough-ground and heat treated, and am trying to decide if I should do the flat grind or hollow grind first. I would guess the flat to an almost finished state, but I'm afraid when I try the hollow on the back I'm going to mess it up and have to regrind. The all powerful search tool seems to have failed me for the first time on the "when" of this kind of grind, although I have a different methods on the "how". Any advice would be appreciated.
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