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Even forging larger items doesn't necessarily require a larger forge (Or even hotter if it heats ok to begin with) Most high carbon steels shouldn't be forged to hot anyway, but my main point is, you don't want to heat more metal than you can forge at one time. Generally 4 to 6 inches. With a gasser, this usually means you need a rear opening so you can heat longer pieces. If you really want a hotter forge (honestly, yellow to white is just dandy in my shop) you may want to explore other refractory solutions as jcornell suggests and other more efficient burner options. Zoeller Forge is an excellent start. Good luck Scott Edit: I was writing while you were posting ^_^ . Ceramic blanket such as Kaowool or Inswool is a good refractory for fast forge heat but large pieces suck a lot of heat from it and it needs to be coated with a refractory coating to contain hazardous airborne fibers. The trade off is a solid refractory; brick, castable or ramable. They generally take longer to heat but hold the heat better when heating large pieces. There is a tone more in the forge sections and I can't remember it all and certainly don't want to type it either. But that is a very general idea.

Yellow or white hot isn't enough? What are you trying to achieve??

I'm not sure why "everyone" believes he is the final say. He was an author, artist, painter, philosopher, heck he was even a fellow Marine from one source I read. That being said, he wrote books on several subjects. One just happened to be on blacksmithing and from what I have gleaned from net surfing, he learned most of that from either reading old books on the subject and personal experience in making tools for his other art mediums; namely sculpting chisels and such. His book about smithing (which I do own and have read) is about what has worked for him; much like any other books on smithing (as has been eluded to by previous posts). How his book, entertaining and informative as it may be, became "The One Book" on blacksmithing is beyond me except maybe its price. Its one of the more affordable books on smithing so perhaps the first (and I'm guessing, only) book many new smiths buy. It was my first smithing book, but from what I've learned on my own as well as from other smiths, it's far from the final say for me. YMMV :) Scott

What?? I can't hear you due to the ringing in my ears! Please, speak up!!! :ph34r:

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The human body produces sweat as a built in air conditioning system. Embrace it! OTOH, if you are sweating and then stop sweating, and its still hot, Worry! That is your body's A/C unit after the fuse has blown Scott

What book would that be? Everyone??

A google search revealed How it Works: Science and Technology Vol 16 said the rubber band windings were made from the white milky latex sap from the gutta percha (and other latex producing trees) and the liquid centers were a mix of fine clay, water and glycerine, (this gives the ball the bulk of its weight) Also, Golfsmith.com said, "Contrary to golf folklore, the liquid cores aren’t dangerous. Titleist, for example, has used a salt water and corn syrup blend." Probably why I was only temporarily blinded :D I cut through the windings of that one but I do remember them unwinding themselves after you got closer to the center core :)

Welcome, Travis. One of the (blade)smiths I know in Az routinely does all his forging outside in the winter months and saves all his finish work for the warmer months to do inside his shop. Scott

Neat forge, Branstetter. Hey, northern Nevada!! I was born in Carson City and still have family friends in Elko :) Jymm Hoffman also makes a "clam shell" style forge. Albeit his has a different kind of burner consisting of flattened nozzles rather than round like we are used to seeing. Been thinking of trying one on my next forge and perhaps the clam shell as well.... Scott

The link seems to be broken. 404 error :(

Did you cut that square hole with it?? Another beauty, Darren :)

Again, and this is from over 25 years of welding experience; both in industrial production and personal hobby work. Never trust a welding shield, that you personally, haven't taken the glass filter lens out from between the clear cover lenses (I use one on both sides of the filter lens in my shields. Glass pits very easily; even on the inside.) and made sure its a porper lens. Its really easy. Take it out, check the shade number, look for an ANSI # (may not be on alll lenses) test against bright light. (the sun works but don't stare. :rolleyes: It only takes a second) if its bad, you will know immediately. Throw it away and get an ANSI approved one (assuming you are in the US; Other countries have their own standards orgs) No need to worry. When in doubt, don't buy it. Like I said, I made my own but I put ANSI approved lenses in it. Trusting welding PPE, especially from china, out of the box is plain stupid. YMMV

"Please correct me if I am mistaken. I want to go with the dovetails because it is my understanding that it is easier to tap out/drive in 2 wedges, then it is to loosen/tighten 8 bolts (Or 4 if that is what you want to go with)." I'm just using two 1/2" socket head bolts on diagonal corners without issue. An air impact at the ready makes short work of die changes

Also, google Jim "Paw Paw" Wilson. (Unfortunately we're not allowed to link to it) He had a neat traveling shop trailer that had the walls that would open and raise up on a diagonal from the middle via an electric winch that when raised, mimicked a gable roof and exposed the full *period* Revolutionary War blacksmith shop. He had canvas covers or similar to drape over and hide the tires during demos, I don't know what became of it since his passing, but I got to see it once, and it was really something to see, and quite the talk of any blacksmith event that he set up at :) Scott Edit, OK I was able to find this image showing it opened up. This was at a hammerin scheduled before Jim's death, but turned into a memorial.

Are there any rail yards near you? Call the RR and ask about scrap. I was luck to find some repair going on near my work and asked the crew there and the *Gave* me a 3' section. More than I wanted LOL but I had no problem getting rid of what I didn't use

I have thought seriously about making the switch, myself. I will be following this post :) Scott

Couple tips on welding shield safety. 1. NEVER use a new welding shield (even a Jackson or a Huntsman) without making sure there is indeed a filter lens and the filter lens is of proper grade for the type of welding you are going to do, and ALWAYS clean and check your filter lens before you start welding. It could be the wrong shade, cracked, smudged, fogged from welding smoke, etc 2............ :huh: ........... :unsure: .............I got nothin' else. :rolleyes: Scott

Hidden?? :)

So often times it happens, once a feller gets his answer, he never comes back to report one way or t'other. I hope he's ok and everything worked great rather than the opposite :huh:

Assuming by "portable" you mean trailer? Is 8 x 8 including overall width including tires? According to AAA and other sources, most state's trailer dimensions allow a total width of 8 to 8.5" without a special permit.That's outside of tire to outside of tire. Some states might include fender to fender. That means your floor has to be less than 8 feet or built over the tires. May want to check your local laws before you run into issues with "The Man" :)

Is the problem that its hand-held? or the quality?? I frequently weld with a hand held shield. Huntsman and Jackson both make real nice ones but I made mine because I'm frugal cheap :)

Now, that IS interesting for sure, Fatfudd. Postman appears to be contradicting himself ;)

What Frosty said! Once the price is set, its real hard to raise; Especially if the future orders are via word-of-mouth. DAMHIK :mellow: Scott

As it has an "exit hole" in the side, I suspect it for punching. Just a guess, however....