Dodge

Its not all thumbnails either, I have opened others even during this session. Odd indeed :wacko:

Posted in a local machine shop with the hourly rates: "Work done Good, Fast & Cheap. Pick two only!"

This knife will make onions cry with joy ;)

As usual, Darren, very nice work! Chin, I don't think he does anything accidentally anymore :D Scott

How did you get it to work? No joy here :( Edit: I can get them to open in Chrome but not FireFox. Unfortunately, IFI is slower than frozen snot on Chrome at least on my puter... Nice knife Eddie! :)

WHAT??? Sorry; had to blow out the coffee I sneezed through my nose :-D MIG welding was designed as an all position all direction process. After 25 years of production welding (initially trained by AWS certified welding techs following a year long AWS recognized welding diploma program) producing traffic and power transmission standards, I (as well as all of my fellow co-workers) have welded in about every welding position and direction imaginable and trained numerous new welders. Push or pull is entirely situation based and personal preference. Some situations require one over the other. Pulling actually yields better penetration as you are pointing your molten wire into the weld puddle. Pulling is more difficult, however and the shielding gas pressure is critical because it is possible to contaminate the puddle with too much gas. Pushing tends to yield a prettier weld; especially for those new to MIG welding. However, its possible to not achieve the best penetration because you are pushing the molten wire onto cold (relative to the puddle) metal. When you think of it in these terms, it only makes sense. Our weld techs use to frequently tested to destruction (as well as ultrasound magnaflux testing) test plates done for various customer requirements dealing with the DOT as well as individual state and international requirements. Take it for what its worth, but I have seen the difference between pushed welds and pulled welds. The pushed welds rarely had the same penetration in to the parent metal as the pulled welds which, indecently is why it works better for thin sheet metal weld such as auto-body work. As for overhead, I was taught (by AWS trained instructors) to turn the amps down lower than for flat or horizontal welding. Not a lot but some. (Its not a cake walk by any means) Finally, If pulling a weld is wrong, watch out driving along most US highways and city streets. Traffic signal arms, light poles, high-mast interstate lighting as well as power transmission standards are riddled with pulled welds :ph34r: Scott

Coat rack; Steel on oak Close up of hook There are two boards; one with 5 hooks mounted at adult eye level and one with 4 hooks mounted at child level below ;) My only regret on this was not being able to find square headed lag bolts and not painting the heads of the hex heads; a procrastination that is 12 years in the making LOL

Hmmmmm, ax head. Cane handle as well as personal security device and I couldn't be accused of carrying a concealed weapon :ph34r:

A CANE!!! Thank you, Neil :) You have just given me the answer. With all the damage to my body an ancient motorcycle accident has done, I frequently rely on the support of a cane. I have a neat branch of maple I cut years ago, that I have always wanted to make into a cane but have never come up with a handle idea I was happy with. An old hammer head I'm not using will be perfect solution!! Thanks again, Scott

Way cool, Ric. Thanks for sharing! Scott

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but rather, support the OP. I made an anvil following a similar path. Its CNC cut from mild steel. I didn't hard-face it; I just depend on the flame hardened surface. From what I have observed from the video, It doesn't appear the least dead. Its got a far sight more rebound than my mild steel and regardless of what many may think, It's not dead either. It's of course, not as springy as my old Trenton, but I have put a few miles on it and I am very happy with the results. It has a couple dings due to learning curves but 7018 is a wonderful ding fixer-upper (If I ever decide I need to fix it) ;) If you would like to see more pics of it and the method I used for the hardy hole, it is in the "Show me you anvil" thread; page 22, post #425. To those that insist I have wasted my time and built a dead anvil, I say, opinions are like arm pits; we all have them and most of them stink :D Its my anvil and you don't have to use it. In fact I probably wouldn't let you B) Great work Woodweavil! Scott

At the risk this has become an "Everything Else" topic: :D The therabands have to be tied on for the most part. Especially for over-the-fork attachment. Through-the-fork can be attached through a notch cut in the fork legs but still needs to be secured. I'm pretty sure I have read about some folks using super glue too but still tying is a must. Gluing however, makes field repair more of a hassle. Bands rarely come loose before they break when simply tied. There's just too much pressure on the rubber if tied properly. Not mine, but typical over-the-fork attachment:

I found that on the slingshot forums strips of Theraband, the exercise band stuff (the best (most powerful) is theraband gold) is the standard band set up for homemades although many do use the surgical tubing as well. I'm using non-latex burgundy doubled simply because I had it on hand. Non-latex doesn't stretch as far as banding containing latex, but I can still dent my wheelbarrow from fifty feet :ph34r: Also, the common ammo used by the guys on the ss forums is in deed purchased steel balls (More accurate than rocks and other ammo and not as abrasive on the ammo pouch) 3/8 to 1/2" is common but some guys use up to 3/4". Much depends on the size bands used as to much weight will not travel as far without the proper power behind it. Target shooters use catch boxes to reduce overhead ;) I have not advanced to such high tech shooting. Small stones from the garden suffice for now LOL

Very cool. Thanks for sharing! Scott

Interestingly, slingshots are illegal altogether in the Netherlands. Even in the US, there are restrictions on building them in many states. (I didn't know this until after I built a couple :D ) But as been mentioned, they aren't weapons until they have bands and ammo pouch attached. :ph34r:

Something I use on long stock keeps it all on the ground. Forge is at anvil(insert powerhammer) level. the stock rests on....well... a stock stand. With a roller to roll in and out of the forge set at just over balance, I can roll stock out of the forge and swing it over to the anvil(insert powerhammer). This is all based on the forge and anvil(again, insert powerhammer here) being the same distance from the stand and you still have to hoist heavier stock onto the stand My plan is to replace the roller with a pivoting stand with a Vee shaped with ball type rollers as currently, the stock wants to roll off the horizontal roller without having to add a couple pair of vicegrips or some other kind off up-rights. Hopes this all makes as much sense as as my mental picture, becauseI dont have photos and I don't draw that well. Otherwise, never mind :ph34r: Scott

Very cool! I was just re-introduced to slingshots myself. Even found a website that is the "iforgeiron" or "bladeforums" of slingshots. I would post a link but don't want to tarnish my clean record LOL. However, if you want to google, its called Slingshot Forums and admin-ed from Germany by a man named Joerg Sprave

These are great! Thank you for sharing. The chipping hammer body on the last one has given me inspiration. I have a couple dozen of them salvaged from the scrap bin where I used to work ;) Scott

Welcome back, Bomlin. Great to see the progress! Scott

Thanks. Setting DVR ;)

I am curious about this as well. BTW, you folks know waaaay to much about knife fighting. Not sure I want to dink beer where you guys drink LOL

What is the program title? I'm looking through the listings and can't find anything that gives a clue...

I don't consider myself a knife maker, persay, but I have made two that I am quite proud of. That being said, I am quick to point out all of the flaws when I show off my first successful knife. Unless they are schooled in blade making, they usually don't really know what I am pointing out :) You have a beautiful knife in my opinion, and can not see, from these photos, the flaws that you speak of :) Well done! Scott

You could probably save money by ordering metal from a distributor and pay shipping over what "Menards Steel" costs. "Standard" for ornamental; railings, fireplace tools, deco grills etc is mild steel. i.e. A36 or 1018. Menards steel is for emergency *very small* projects, where the end results far outweigh what the materials cost. e.g "The-house-is-going-to-fall-into-a-sink-hole-if-I-don't-get-that-piece-of-steel-from-Menards (insert any other favorite "box store")-NOW!" type projects. There HAS to be a wholesale steel distributor in the greater Chicago area that can beat Menards prices and not require you to buy tons of it. Albeit, you will probably have to buy a full length; usually 20'. Try this link

Added to our list. Hope she is well. My mother is 91. Still active mentally but that can cause them to try stuff their 91 year old bodies can't pay for. That is what our prayers work best for :) Scott