Dodge

Happy Father's Day fellow dads

Sweet. This and your description above makes it crystal clear. Thanks Daniel! Scott

Get a job as a CNC flame cutting machine operator and cut one out yourself. Worked for me I often wish I still had that job. I could make a dime or two

Daniel, nice looking torch I am really interested in this. You don't happen to have a picture of the process of the manifold to refractory connection, do you? Does it just sit in the top of the refractory mold and set in place or are there anchors to hold in in place while the mud sets? Edit: Oops. Just read your second post and it explains it quite satisfactorily.

Many people have built many forges over the 15 or so years since I started smithing and I'm sure many more before that. The majority have found that a liner of 2" of ceramic wool seems to be the magic number. Any less and you lose too much heat through the forge wall. You can almost lay a bare hand (I did say almost ) on the outside shell of my forges while running. This should indicate that there is not a great deal of heat loss through the 2" of blanket and thin layer of refractory mortar I use as a rigidizer. Of course, if it was cold to the touch, it would mean little to none. As a contrast, I know of a shop that built their forges from a 2" wall of castable refractory with an inch or so ceramic blanket on the outside. They ran them off natural gas and ran them for 8 - 10 hours a day so weren't too concerned about the fairly long heat up time first thing in the am, compared to the short time of a ceramic liner on the inside. That being said, even at the later part of the day, one could lay a bare hand on the top of these forges (Used for welding 3/4" and larger steel) and would find the temperature less than warm... Scott

Wow, That is quite a collection. Too bad the building isn't salvageable (?) Along with the line shaft, that would be quite a museum!!

Agreed on the threads, J. What I meant about gas specific, was the porous material (cork?) that fills acetylene bottles to maintain its stability. And yup, my supplier will trade bottles for whatever you want. Also agree about keeping bottles up to date. Unfortunately, Its been so long since I got refills, I surely will be paying inspection fees next time

Bottles are generally color coded for the gas or gas mix they contain. Some bottles such as acetylene, by design, can only contain that gas.

I built the Clay Spencer-ish type tire hammer and I like it but had I seen this tire-at-the-base type I would surely done it this way. Nice job, Hugo Scott

I don't confess blade making as my main forte but have made a couple knives. I have to admit, I have not been able to get the hang of hand grinding, myself. I made a jig and found it to be some what useful, but I ended up finishing with files and hand and block sanding. That being said, one knife maker that I have the deepest respect for scoffed when I told him I was going to make a jig. He knew I wanted to learn to hand grind and said, if I made a jig that worked, I most likely would never learn to hand grind. You use what works. If you get good at hand grinding, you'll never need a jig. OTOH, if you get good using a jig, why learn to get good by hand. Looking back, I wished I would have followed his advice. I probably would have more knives made by now... Scott

Very nice! They way the timbers are contained, I don't think you will ever have to work about them Scott

That is going to a spectacular scar! Semper Fi Scott

Small scrap and junk storage as well as another flat top to store even more junk.

Not sure why but I can't open any of the pics. I get the following message: Sorry, there is a problem Cannot find the page you requested Error code: 2T187/2 Contact Us

Real nice Cao! What is the handle material? Looks like a homemade Micarta of sorts? Now you know what to expect next time. Either start with a smaller piece of stock or cut it off during forging as suggested. I would not be the least bit ashamed of that knife. Good job indeed! Scott

Wow! Beauty in simplicity! I love it. Thanks for sharing

Sweet! I built mine several years ago and its the most used piece of machinery I use across all my hobbies but its always lacked the accuracy I hoped for. It shakes a little too much for fine knife finishing. Thanks for sharing. I would like to make another grinder on the "KMG" line and this looks like it could be done with the kit I have in my shop. I may even consider cannibalizing my old grinder and save beaucoup $$. OTOH, as in forges and power hammers (any tools), can you really have too many??

I built this one a number of years ago. 10 I think was the number Its about a 35# tup and about 380# to 400# anvil. 1/2 hp 1725 rpm motor with a 21" tire and 3" drive hub equaling aprox. 246 bpm (not counting for friction loss)

This is what I do to line a round pipe (pronounced, re-purposed propane tank): First layer is cut so as to have the ends butt snugly inside the pipe. The seam being oriented with what will be the bottom of the forge. Next, I lay in the floor; be it ceramic shelf, bricks, or cast refractory. Against the linear edge, I butt the second layer snugly. If you get these layers cut accurately enough, no adhesive is needed to hold the wool in place. Your rigidizer will lock it in place from the inside (Don't for get to cut your burner hole.) I then form a taper in the hole(s) and use this as my "nozzle(s)". Hope this helps. Works for me Scott

Well said, SJS. I get what Mr Brazeal is talking about with his use of the word, "dies", but I also get that he's using the term to describe the diversity of a hammer. You don't have to just use the face to hit just like you don't hit everything on the face of the anvil. Take-away is, don't get hung up of peoples different names for tools as long as you glean why they are calling it that. My dad always call "channel locks" "water pump pliers" or simply, "water pumps" I learned later, that Channellock is a patented brand name and "water pump" was a common type of the tool more accurately called slip joint pliers. After the first couple calls for them (I was his tool gopher since I was about 8 ) I knew what he meant and I even after I learned the "right name", I knew not to correct him . So, call it a hammer if you are more comfortable with that but know that the various surfaces act like dies in use. I call my hammers Betty, Sue, Gertrude, Gladys, Brunhilda and Bertha.

I can't seem to open the pic. I get this message: Sorry, there is a problem Cannot find the page you requested Error code: 2T187/2 Contact Us

If you are able to find one of the original 110# Russian made anvils, just an FYI. They are, from what I have read, cast from a fairly decent steel. They just never got heat treated. However, also from what I've read, they are therefore, heat treatable or open to hard-facing. It may or may not be cost effective, but (again), I have read, folks have done both, successfully. I wish I had bought one when they were available

I'm with you, Basher. Just because you have the excess power doesn't mean you need to use it. But its there in the case you do need it. A 1725 rpm 5 hp doesn't turn any faster than a 1725 rpm 3/4hp after all. Maybe a bit of over-kill but if that's all ya had and you're on a budget. Kinda like a gas forge that gets "too hot" or a car that's "too fast" Turn it down, Son! Of course, You would probably disintegrate a belt and/or contact wheel before you ever bog it down, mind you YMMV Scott

FWIW, My home 2x72 bogged down easily, especially with coarser gits with a 3/4. I doubled it (because the price was right) and I can disintegrate stuff with little effort YMMV Scott

Soapstone