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Found 7 results

  1. I've been posting this in a couple other places, but thought I'd post the whole thing over here too as it's a real hammer crowd and I could always use more input! The thread starts back a month ago in early June... Well, I had enough of trying to track down hammers, afford them, dicker over price, lose deals from distance and competition... so I contacted my friend Larry Langdon and sure enough, he had a good project hammer to sell me.It's a #9 Beaudry Champion, the slack belt type, the 300 lb. model. It needs dies and a sow block. Overall it's not too badly worn but has a good surfa
  2. I have a Shaw & justice dead stroke power hammer In need of rebuilding. However I can not find much information on it. I want to know if these were good machines and worth fixing or if it would be a waist of time and money? Any information would be helpful. Thanks.
  3. I was asked to post the pictures of the rebuild of my Fisher Norris anvil. While on a salvage hunt last year, found a poor Fisher Norris in the salvage yard. Bought it for $25.00 and brought it home. I don't have a picture of what it looked like then. Lets just say it was in terrible shape. The table was cracked, both edges were broken, chipped, and cracked. We ground out cracks (see the photos) and broken areas until it looked like a very poor boat anchor. My friends George and Bert grinding and watching to get to good metal. As you can see it was a real mess. I
  4. I'm looking for tips or any type of do's & don't's advice I can get on restoring a Peter Wright anvil. The other day I was playing with my brake drum forge. I live on the corner so people are always driving by. I had a man offer to sell me a anvil. He was a older guy real nice. Told me he bought it at a estate sale 5 years ago but can no longer be around coal so had no use for it. Right now I'm in the middle of replacing my vans head gaskets so I couldn't go see it and knew he likely couldn't text me or email pictures. I asked him everything I could about it and he felt it was in
  5. My forge at work has served us well for several years, but it's about time it received some attention. A bit of background. It is situated in a historic village setting so we built it pretty much the way the old miners of the area built their forges to sharpen drill steels etc in the mines. It is basically a square of rock, filled with rubble and a top layer of crushed ant bed (including ants). A pipe passes through the rock edging and connects to a hand crank fan. Charcoal fuel. After several years, the pipe has been gradually eaten away and needs replacement. I am thinking of repla
  6. Hello everyone, I believe this is my first post on I Forge Iron. I am in some need of some help and advice. I purchased a rough Champion 401 rivet forge from a blacksmith in Townsend, DE for about $50. The blower is in pretty much mint condition, minus the wasp's nests and caked on grease and dirt I cleaned out of the fan area. The rusted out legs were basically fused into the mounting brackets, but managed to free them and replace them (took a month of chiseling and filing). I will be replacing the rusted out, paper thin base pan bottom with a new 1/8" thick plate. The only problem I am
  7. I purchased a new style 100lb little giant last week in Spokane and have a question. The hammer I think is in good shape except for one issue. The spider is not on the main shaft completely. The shaft is recessed into the spider about ½”. The key is also sticking out beyond the spider more than ¾”. This machine has been like this for some time. Some type of crude attachment is stuck on the end of the key, in an attempt to drive it in or pull it out. In order to take up the axial play in the main shaft, given the clutch assembly in out of position a large split collar was added to the main shaf
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