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I Forge Iron

Silent

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  1. That section of the forum is pretty hidden man I only noticed it because you guys referred tailgate. Im used to always see classifieds :p Anyway made my post there. Thanks guys!
  2. Hi all, I have a lot of stuff remaining from a dropped project to finish some katanas, which never arrived and I still waiting on money return, anyway anyone know wht happened to Pavel bolf? My main question is where can I sell the supplies I have,could I be given temporary access to tho Classified adds subforum here? or can i sell elsewhere, i have all the photos just need some sugestions on where to buy and how much worth is all of this has a pack. Can post photos here if its allowed... Will ship to the UK no problem.
  3. Its legal to own swords here, theres shops and stores of sword a nd knifes, all are XXXXXX wallhanger stainless steel though. Legal to own collect, not carry out. I think thats clear, my question was where to cut the steel profiles that i already got. And yes I intend to start making some knives, then tantos first. Just asking where to cut the steel to keep some reserv bars, to make swords when i got the Expirience.
  4. Hi, AFter reading loads and lots :P I dicided to give it a try, the main reason that got me into it has that, swords are iligal in my country, yeah I can't import or buy even inside Europe. Anyway, its has always been my dream to own a real japanese sword, and so on, u get it. u all get the thrill, its the same. Besides most japanese retail swords on market, xxxx compared to the real fully handmade and properly DH HT blades. The steel im using it got me even more fascinated into it cause I was able to find the very rare AISI 1080V in Europe. Composition C: 0,75% - 0,85% Si: 0,10% - 0,30% Mn: 0,10% - 0,40% P: Max 0,030% S: Max 0,030% Thats the standard Specs, with +Cr 0.5, V 0.16 I bought some flat bars with the following sizes: 6mm x 25mm x 1200 mm 6mm x 30mm x 1200 mm I would like to cut off pieces of it in a way , the left over is enough to make a katana or Ko-katana. I was thinking of cutting 30cm to make tantos of each and leave the rest,what i want to know is that proporcional, i never really forged anything yet so i dont have clear idea of how much it can extend or grow in lenght.
  5. The hammer i use, doesnt have a flat surface, it's irregular. That's why im interested in a "Rough Forging hammer"(1,5kg) and a "Precise one."(1000gr Octavated) I will buy 2 with cable, and One without. i just need to Choose. Regards
  6. I need Help Choosing some Hammers. Im having some trouble forging the bevels (japanese Style) into my recent works. Sooo... im looking for a hammer that wont leave Scuffs that my older ones do. The Steel i use is W1 with 0.85% Carbon or C80U/C80w2 or C105w1(because is easy to hammer), sizes 900mm x 30mm x 9 mm (Thick) The Store Regular Hammers http://www.bricodap.com/contents/pt/d324.html Martelo de pena 1500gr OSCA (OC01103P15) 13,10€ Heavy Stuff http://www.bricodap.com/contents/pt/d326.html This is what i was thinking to buy(Click Screarch , because Portuguese for you must be like a bora looking for a Palace xD) 1x Marreta - VITO (VI31xx) 1Kg (without Cable) 2,30€ 1x Marreta 1,25K DIN6475 OSCA (OC01125P12) or 1,5Kg? 7,50€ 1x Marreta oitavada 1000grs - VITO (VIM1000) 6,30€ Need some Help:P Regards 1x
  7. In Netherlands http://www.vd-international.nl/ Tools Steel Suplier Has C80w1/C80w2 and C105w1/C105w2. Pay attention C80w1 and C80w2 aren't the same thing, as well as C105w1 and C105w2. Regards
  8. Actually my bad there. Yes English is not my first language. What i meant was 1095 has more Carbon that it's required to fully harden steel(0.8/0.85), that is taking in consideration you are giving it the proper quenching Medium following the Chart to achieve Full Hardness. So the rest of the Carbon won't go "in solution" , creating britleness , the rest of the carbites work to improve Edge retention. Yap i concur with this statment, after you start doing blades aiming for hamon there are a lotof variables, just like when you Quench/harden it. "Quench medium , quenchant temp , temp of steel , quench interuption, number and type of normalisations , blade section , clay type , clay thickness, clay pattern. It can be a persuit all of its own . " Regards
  9. Supplies of C80W2 or C70W2 in Europe? You Know?:D

  10. C80w2 is what we Call AISI w1. But you know W1 varies from mill to Mill. You can Find it in a lot of Places in Europe, Cheap! About the Hamons: 1050 to 1095 and the W1/W2 series are Shallow Hardening , and you will get Hamons with them, if they are well treated. AISI 1060, is a Good Baseline for longer Blades and Will make a Good Hamon. 1075 Too, a litle lesh flashy, but more defined though. W1 Will be better then Any AISI 10XX Series (Even then 1095, because it has More then 0,8% Carbon wich , by logic doenst allow it to fully harden , and makes it a bit messy to Heat Treat when it Come to Long Blades, and you have very litle time when it Comes to Quenching Temps) I wish you The best Luck. I wouldn't mind some W1 myself Regards
  11. Hi There C85w2 , just for the Record is W1 Steel. Has we know the W1 batchs Carbon contents may change from Mill to Mill. It's good Stuff, The Closer from it you can get with Simple Carbon Steels is AISI 1084.(Wich is Very good Too) You can Quench in Water or Oil, dependes what you want, if You are doing japanese Style Blades you Probably Should Water Quench. But still you can just Pre-Curve then Quench you will still get Good Hamon With C80 w2(W1 Tool Steel). If i were you: With 1084, w1 or W2 i Would do a Interrupted Quench like Water 3 Seconds , Then Mar-Quench into Hot Oil(350 F). Regards
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