Dodge

Awwwwwww dang Richard. I just came up with project for that chunk, that you simply can't live without :D

Ask Garey Ford aka garey here. He makes beer keg forges :)

Yes, I did in fact use a galvanized tee. That part of the burner doesn't (or shouldn't) get hot enough to burn zinc.

Thanks, Benton I made this "micarta" with acrylic resin and polyester fabric. Not sure about commercially made stuff, but I took the same precautions I would as if I were working with resin and fiberglass, the more common fabric used with that sort of resin. I.E. dust respirators. Yes belt grinder made short work of rough shaping and then filing and sand paper to finish. Care needs to be taken when grinding around pins and other metal. If you heat up the metal too much, you could cause it to begin to melt the plastic. However, its nearly as satisfying to see the pattern emerge from micarta as you progress to finer grits as it is for damascus. Just quicker :D Scott

Curiously, Steve, where did you look to find NONE that are arched? :P I seem to remember Grampa's razor having the arched shape. I believe the curve would make it less likely to be nicked by the corners of the blade Scott

I see a clearly defined socket shape but did you weld it to the ratchet before forging? I can't, for the life of me, make out where the ratchet part is/was

I just read this thread for the first time since I posted, so my apologies, but after catching up, I still stand on this statement. Plastic is even made with stuff that was on the earth AFTER the sun. To be fair, the original statement has more meaning than we are allowed to discuss here but I think its still true and shouldn't nullify anything other than the idea that we can't take what has been done and do it again with (as I said) homage and/or credit to the originator.

I move my anvil from time to time with a hand truck. First thing I became aware of first time I moved it; All the weight is at the top. It can get away from you when you least suspect it. For instance; that crack in the driveway that is wider than you thought or "Where did that rock come from??" Just an FYI. Be careful :) Scott

Another fine job, Darren!

LOL. Well, two hands and the "hinged contraption." Thank you Rob. :) For the press foam I used a 1" thick foam garden kneel pad. Yes, closed cell foam I believe. No latches as it cools so fast I didn't feel they were necessary; just bear down on it for a few seconds. But fast cooling time was part of the problem I was having. In fact, as well as it turned out, I'm finding more and more I don't like about it that I'm thinking I may make a new one for it eventually. In the mean time thanks again, one and all. Scott

Does that paint dry to a water proof finish? A well used and appreciated knife gets wet from time to time...

Well said, Laertius; well said! Proven design save lots of hours and headaches. Benefit from other's R&D :) Another wool coating that I have had good luck with on the lines of furnace cement is refractory mortar. (I used AP Green's "Greenpatch 421" but not sure about it's availability, however I'm certain there are others) It's primary function is for mortaring fire brick together but it coats dampened ceramic wool nicely. A couple coats of it thinned to milkshake consistency yields a very hard coat that you would have to hit square on to breach. Scott

There are a handful of members here that will claim that we hobby blacksmiths should *NEVER* be allowed to call ourselves blacksmiths because we will never complete a program and receive papers that confirm such a Title. (Pronounced Apprentice Programs) I can somewhat see their point, as they are making their living solely from heating and beating. That being said, I too used to cringe when people would describe me as *blacksmith*. However, after 13 or 14 years, I'm still learning blacksmithing, but the name doesn't seem so awkward. No, I haven't completed any apprentice programs and I don't do this to put wieners on the table, and I've been a welder/fabricator for most of my adult life but if I want to fix or make something, my first thought is "What end should I heat first, and what hammer and tongs will I need?" My 2¢ Scott

That looks to become a dyn-o-mite forge! I trust you plan to coat your ceramic blanket with a rigidasizer? I use a refractory mortar from AP Green. (Not sure if its available anymore though but many other options) an 1/8" coat makes a very durable chamber with a little care. 1/4", 3/8" and its near "bullet proof" ;) A reflective coating of a ITC 100 like product serves to increase the efficiency of the insulation... Hope this helps Scott

Those are destine to become treasured heirlooms! Looking good, Sir.

A lot depends on the starting material. I have worked with banding and band saw which is about .06" thick so you want to start with more layers. I started with 21 layers. Welded and drew out and cut in 3 and welded a second time. So with only 2 welds, it yielded 63 layers. One more cut and re-stack in 3 pieces would have yielded 189. It adds up exponentially. I'm getting ready to do a billet with 33 layers to start. Using the same method I could have nearly 300 layers in 3 welds

Wicked little poker :) I like it a lot! I actually prefer a low layer count (60 - 100) I think it displays the differences in the metals better. High layer counts have there place, mind you; they work nice with larger and exotic patterning and composites. Just my opinion. -_- Scott

Sid Suedemeir in Nebraska City, Nebraska may have a replacement...

FWIW, I was able to buy scraps of ceramic wool left over from a job from a local refractory and boiler repair (google search term) company. Too small for their use but perfect for lining small forges, I lined 2 forges for less than half what new would cost. IIRC it came out to about $15 per forge. Less than 10 for plumbing parts and I'm right on Frosty's estimation, give or take a few incidentals Scott

Top shelf, Darren! Another beaut! Really like the sheathe, too

Actually not that hard, Darren as long as you have everything ready and have 3 or 4 hands, but I only used two. :D Luckily, Kydex returns to its original shape when reheated. Unfortunately, Kydex returns to its original shape when reheated :blink:. Third heat and selective use of a heat gun worked a charm though :) Thanks for the kind thoughts, all Scott

Just a little trivial(?) fyi while orifice sizes are being discussed: The hole in a *.035" mig tip* isn't actually .035" in diameter. Otherwise, the .035" diameter wire would drag. I don't recall the exact figure and I assume it may vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer, but, IIRC, its closer to .039" or .040". (#61 or #60 drill) For a 1" pipe T-burner, I drilled a *.035* mig tip to #57 (or .043") and I have to choke it a bit to control scale some. Its the same tip I used previously in a 3/4" Reil burner and it worked great there. Point I'm making is that ".035 mig tip" isn't .035" Hope this helps, Scott

Well whadyawant from me anyhow!?! I been busy! :rolleyes: So, here it is, finally. Enjoy this one because you won't see another kydex sheathe from me <_< Regard: Thanks, Scott

Neat l'il knife! BTW, what is EDC?

That's what I did. I have 2 die springs held end to end with a through rod held in place with clamping blocks on the outer ends of the rod