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Found 77 results

  1. Finished this knife for my dad's 70th birthday this week and gave it to him this weekend. This was my first go at stacked pattern welded steel. To say the least , it was an adventure that took me to the edge of my sanity. I forged 3 blades before I got this one to work, the first one I forged to shape and it cracked at the handle to blade transition but I did like the shape, I believe it had about 29 layers. Then I gave it another try but I thought diddnt have enough steel. But I went ahead anyway and finished forging the second one. No supprise I did not have enough steel to make the shape and size I was after. So then I ordered some more steel to give it another try. While I was waiting for that I made the box and sheath. Then i made the 3rd blade and it cracked in the same spot as the first one. This one had about 126 layers and I think I forged it to long and lost too much carbon because it wouldn't harden properly. So then I ordered some more steel. "Running out of time now". Anyways, finished the 4th blade 2 days before the party. It has 73 layers but I ground quite a few away as I did not really forge this one to shape to avoid cracking. It is made of 1084 and 15n20 with a 80crv2 San mai center layer. The box is black walnut and maple with a zebra wood top, handle is also zeebra wood. The blade was etched in warm muriatic acid for 10 minutes. Also had some cracks and cold shuts in this blade but was able to grind them out. In the end I was happy with the knife and it was quite the learning experience.
  2. Hey all, This is my first post on this forum and I am looking for some advice. I know that my fiance and I want to forge my wedding ring together from Damascus steel using 1095 and 15N20. I have done no forge work before and would like to get connected to some resources in Minnesota. Does anyone know of any forging groups/ clubs/ random groups of cool forging people/ makers that meet up and just get after it in the great state of MN? I am looking into making a small forge to do some simple heat treating of high carbon steels but do not have the capacity to look into buying an anvil and larger forge. -SmeltDelt
  3. Believe it or not, my very first attempt at hand making some Damascus didn’t work perfectly. So here I am looking for someone to help me through this! So I’m using a single burner propane forge, one side is blocked off by a half inch thick metal plate and the other side is slightly contained by some red house bricks. (I’m wondering if that’s my problem over all) 1.) Had a buddy weld together together a few pieces of 1080 and 15n20 2.) Got things to roughly 1600 degrees, and applied 20 mule team borax to the sides with the edges. 3.) Back in the forge to what I would honestly call roughly 2000 degrees. (In the daylight of sunset, the forge and stock were almost entirely white) 4.) Over to the anvil with some relatively firm blows. Turning it over a time or two. Didn’t really know what to expect or feel particularly sure of anything going on, so I repeated the process without borax. After I ground one of the edges, it’s basically entirely delaminated. Hoestly delamination is probably the wrong phrase because it was never laminated in the first place. If anyone had any quick tips or fixes it would be awesome! I know how much knowledge is on here and I’ve learned a ton from all of you already!
  4. Not sure if this is the right place to share this, but here goes... Used some of the excess from my damascus billet to make this little damascus hammer pendant 120 layer random pattern 1095 and 15N20 Flattened the metal out with a rounding hammer, then used a belt grinder to create the little hammer. Sanded to 400 grit, then did a few cycles in ferric chloride/distilled water. Final cut added hydrogen peroxide into the acid. All of this was done at the shop of the Master Bladesmith i am training under VID_207690720_135150_454.mp4
  5. I just made my first Damascus blade! It’s sooooo cool! It is spring steel and wrought iron, 40 layers! I made it in a class just now, and I’m super hyped! I know it doesn’t compare to what you guys are doing but I’m still super happy with it! Sorry if the pix are bad awrkiron
  6. Hello everyone! i have a question that I can’t seem to find the answer to. I have done my first pattern welded knife, and I am confused by the etchant portion. I’ll attach a picture of the knife that I etched in instant coffee. I know that I need to get some ferric chloride to get the texture that I want, but there doesn’t seem to be specific information about how to mix the ferric chloride solution so I will get a proper etch. As you may know, ferric chloride is available in all sorts of forms. You can buy it dry, and mix your own solution. You can buy it from various places pre-mixed in a number of different ratios. 43%, 60%, etc. Also, I don’t know what ratio of distilled water to use with powdered ferric chloride, or if the pre-mixed solutions available need to be diluted. Any help you could provide would be very much appreciated. If there is a standard that people use with consistent results, or a particular brand of ferric chloride works better than others, I would love to know about it. Thanks very much for all of your responses. The knife in the photo say in an instant coffee solution for about 2.5 hours.
  7. Long time reader, 1st time poster. I started smithing in August of 2017. Up to that point, I'd never done anything with fire of metal. I've learned a lot by reading the discussions here. I just finished this knife, about 10 months after starting. I like how it turned out, but more than anything, I know it represents how much I have to learn. Thanks for all the help you've given so far, even if you didn't know it. The knife is an 8 inch Kiritsuke. The Damascus I forged from bandsaw and strapping. The layer count is around 126 give or take a few layers of grinding. I was going for a little higher, but stopped here The handle is ebony and Cocobolo with a hidden tang, a copper spacer, and a single square brass pin.
  8. What do you think about this Gurkha Hand Forged Kukri?Do you like it?
  9. A 1 lb pattern-welded cross peen hammer I forged from 1080 and 15n20 steel. The eye was hot punched instead of drilled/milled. I gold plated my logo, though it got a bit messed up in the acid etch. The handle is ash with bajan mahogany pieces laminated on for extra thickness.
  10. I've always been intimidated by feather patterns, but decided to give it a try. I love how it came it, and will absolutely be trying some other variations in the coming months. Blade Length: 6" Handle: 4.5" 1080 and 15n20, bone bolsters, walnut scales, black leather spacers This took me about 2 and a half weeks from start to finish, which is the most time I've spent on a single knife in quite a while... I wish I had made the handle just a bit bigger... my wife says it fits her hand perfectly, so I guess that's not terrible, but even for a kitchen knife, I'd like it to be just a bit bigger for my hand. The bone also came out looking kind of gray and dirty. Other bone I've used has come out white and clean looking, but I guess I got a bad cow or something with this batch.
  11. Hi there, forums! This'll be my first post on this site, so please let me know if I'm putting this topic in the wrong place. I'm an aspiring artist blacksmith who's currently studying abroad at the Duncan Of Jordanstone College of Art and Design, in Dundee. I've never made damascus before, but I've decided I'd like to start experimenting with mosaic patterns. Unfortunately, I'm not terribly knowledgable about steel alloys, and I don't know what steels I should be purchasing for low-carbon decorative damascus, since all the information I've found has been in the context of bladesmithing. On top of that, I don't really know any of the metal suppliers in the UK. I'm hoping someone can answer me these questions: 1: What alloys would you recommend for welding with mild steel? I'm new to damascus so I would prefer to work with something forgiving. 2: Who would supply such an alloy in Scotland, preferably via delivery? 3: What kind of flux would you recommend? I currently have access to a bronze soldering flux that does the job, but is it worth purchasing something specifically intended for steel? Thanks in advance to anyone who responds! I'me really excited to get started on this.
  12. I made this little jewelers raising hammer as a test project out of my first damascus billet. It has a very low layer count (about 8... maybe 7 after grinding), but I think the pattern is neat. The layers were 1080 and 15n20. Etched in a 50/50 mix of ferric chloride and white vinegar then sanded back at 600 grit. I still need to fit a handle.
  13. Latest neck knife that I've done. Second knife that I've made to order. Heat treated 15n20 & 1095 steel Damascus blade with rosewood handle scales and red mosaic pins.
  14. A while back a gentleman "gifted" me with a 2" cable choker. Over the next few months I began playing around with it by cutting 6" off and fusing the ends. That was about 4 lbs of steel. I fiddled with it, hammered and argued with it until my arm hurt. But it finally came together. The blade is 11 1/2" (16 1/2" overall). The handle is Gaboon ebony with stabilized stag spacer and brass fixtures. To my eye it needs something more. I'd love to do some engraving on the brass and silver inlay on the handle although I've found that ebony isn't the best for inlay, not that I have the tools or knowledge to do either. For those who might be curious, it's all hand hammered. I don't own a power hammer or press, although projects like this make me wish I had one.
  15. Ethan here, The last couple of months have kept me busy with and order a commission from the Calgary stampede. After making my first Damascus knife back in January, my mother had posted it on Facebook, which usually I'm not happy about but I no longer think that way... But s keen eye saw that post and took it to a committee at the Calgary stampede and they liked what they saw. Next thing you know I have a deal with them for 12, 9 inch long Damascus knives. Specifically, they are for the brand consignment, for the world auctioneer championships. This is my first "large" commission order and I'm pleasantly surprised with the outcome. They are a very simple drop point design, but I've been carrying a smaller one I made and I love it. I know y'all are going to be wondering what type of wood it is, and I'm sad to say I really don't know. I know that it is a very very hard "Rosewood quote that grows in Asia and I really like how it looks. I think the name also includes all 26 letters of the alphabet but I will try and find it out anyway looking forward to all of your experienced eyes to critique it ! I also have 12 steak Turner's to go with the knives, but I am putting them in the blacksmithing section of this for him to avoid combining topics:)
  16. First of all let me introduce myself, My name is Christian, 16 years old and I am from the Netherlands, I've been blacksmithing for about half a year now, mostly making simple knives. My question is, does anyone know what are very common items (like rasps or springs) that contain nickel? I really want to try my hand at making Damascus for my knives. I find it very challenging to find the right steels I need for my work, that is also why I use leaf springs for all my knives. Thanks in advance for everyone's help
  17. (I couldn't really figure out the right category for this, so we'll call it a "Knife".) I forged this pattern-welded damascus spatula for my Mom’s birthday gift. I offered her a knife or any other thing I could forge, and this is what she chose. Never made one before, it was lots of flattening work with a cross pein hammer and a ton of grinding. 1080 and 15n20 steel, hardened then tempered at about 550 deg F for extra flexibility. The handle is redheart, one of my favorite woods. It’s pretty, really easy to work (hand planes beautifully), and doesn’t have large pores so it finishes smoothly. I hand planed the block to size, then bandsawed out the shape, and block planed everything smooth and roughly to the final shape before sanding.
  18. I forged a low layer count damascus billet from 1080 and 15n20, then made this knife from half of it. It's a thin chef knife with a Tasmanian myrtle wood handle. The x pattern comes from the core of the twisted billet, which I cut into and exposed before re-welding the pieces. Even 1/2" back from the tip is only 0.010" thick, including the spine. I had trouble with it warping in heat treatment, but was able to straighten it.
  19. Twisting up some damascus today. Thought it looked cool with the scale popping off.
  20. Good day. I welded this billet up the other day, all seemed well, and today i was in the process of drawing it out to cut, fold, weld, etc. when it developed a nasty delamination. It appears to go all the way through, right in the center of the billet, of course! The billet is currently 8-1/2" long, and the delamination *appears* to be about 3 inches. My question; if I attempt to cut fold and weld the two halves (which will both have a partial delamination) what are the odds that it will close itself back up on both pieces? Is it not worth my time to continue with? Should I just take the solid steel on the edges and continue with those? Probably won't be enough for a knife like I had planned, but still usable. In fact, this makes me question the integrity of the whole billet. The edges *seem* good. Sorry for the bad pics. All I have is my phone. If it makes a difference, the billet is alternating layers of 5160 (3) and 1075 (2), five layers in total. Thanks in advance.
  21. I just finished this damascus integral bolster chef knife. I forged the low-layer damascus billet out of 1080 and 15n20, then shaped the knife. The handle is padauk, with a brass and silver spacer. More pics here: http://imgur.com/a/VkkLQ
  22. Here is a small integral bolster chef knife I made from the remainder of my low layer count damascus billet. Still needs a handle.
  23. This weekend I worked on forging my first full-scale pattern welded damascus billet. I've previously done one miniature damascus test with a bandsaw blade and pallet strapping and it turned out okay. This time I used 1.25" wide 1080 and 15n20 pieces tack welded into an 8 layer billet after a lot of grinding to make things square and shiny. I welded on a handle and heated it to about 2325 deg F in the forge until uniform temperature. I did fluxless forge welding for the first time and it seems to have worked perfectly so far, I didn't see any separation while drawing later. After drawing out the bar to about 1" square I twisted it (took a few heats... 1" is pretty thick for my small twisting wrench). After I took the neat picture below, I forged it nearly square again. That's all I was able to do with my arm power for the time being, I don't have a power hammer or press so this is all hand hammered. Not sure what to make with it yet, maybe an axe or kitchen knife.
  24. So when i first started doing my knives using damascus steel i etched them using boiling vinnegar. Then after that i was told it didnt need to be boiling and that it could just be room temp vinnegar. And then somone suggested i might see better results by using coffee. So i decided to give it a go and here are the results. Now im happy with the etch for the most part but this etch method has left the steel with these weird colours on it, kinda gold to almost a grey blue. Is this the normal effect of a coffee etch? Also this was after 1.5 hours of etching. Over all while the coffee definately works im not quite happy with it. Il be stripping this one off and trying to etch again later with something else. Trying to track down some FC. Any other tips or house hold etch solutions are welcome.
  25. DRoeder

    Apples to Apples

    336 Layer, Random pattern Damascus Hunter for Eddie Farms in Grandview WA Heat colored fittings, with Apple themed engraving on both collar, and buttplate.