Dodge

You cannot have too many tongs and you learn a lot of different techniques making them, Even if you first project is tongs, they make a great second, third, forth(?) project, Besides the good practice, they increase your arsenal of smithing tools

I believe I first met him on af many years ago, My condolences to his family

I love it!!

Now why didn't I think of that? :P

I cant explain it in metallurgical terms but I believe its the carbon itself that allows iron/steel to be cast. Wrought iron won't cast BECAUSE of its low carbon content. Confirmations / oppositions?

I weld only the handle/tong end then wrap the rest of the billet with tie wire (black annealed wire for rebar ) Using mig wire doesn't offer the flex and twistability as well as being more expensive. Then, as I weld from the handle end, flux can be forced out of the non-welded edges as its hammered

Yes, that's the one! Post #8 in that link.

Silver smithing, to my knowledge offers elements of many aspects found in blacksmithing; just different metals. There's heating and beating as well as foundry/casting and cold forming. So I would say... Yeah; while its on a smaller scale as a rule and often geared more toward jewelry and finer arts such as vessels (tea pots etc) and such silversmithing would give you a chance to test the waters. You may even find a niche in it that you enjoy enough to specialize in silver. No shame in that :) Hope this is helpful Scott

I have talked to Jymm Hoffman via email about his "slot burner" He claims that they will burn household pressure natural gas (using forced air of course) and weld in a propane tank type or smaller forge. I believe there is a thread here in this section albeit a fair piece back into the archives Edit: Hmmmm maybe not. may be too old to come up in a search with normal parameters Scott

My name is Scott and I am a fire and steel addict I believe this to be true. I am also a car guy and I have yet to find a forum that has remotely the helpful newby information ("How do I get started?" stuff) Yeah their are exceptions, but for the most part, blacksmiths just seem to crave sharing their secrets. Just don't ask how to make a Sord :D "...., I shall fashion my own key. " I love this!!!

LOL No need for a LOT of cats. One generates plenty. Just takes a little longer to save the buckets :D

Its a perfectly honest question that deserves an honest answer. Please excuse the curmudgeoning from Mr. Swede. I assume you mean the guard. It is usually pierced and mounted from the tang end and soldered in place. Thats not to say it can't be forged as an integral piece. Just much more difficult Scott

Its all about the fire. :ph34r: I never get tired of seeing the white hot glow of the inside of my gassers and watching (NOT STARING of course) the metal turn from black to glowing :)

Any progress to report? Looking forward to seeing final product! :) While its probably too late (although you could cut it back) I have to agree with this. See my previous post. Mine is only 3" x 3" and note that only a small amount of that (maybe 3/4") actually contacts the tire. Hope this is useful Scott

Abrasive wheels (cut off wheels) will cut through just about anything. Especially after annealing.

As for the meaning of roses, I found this. I don't know why it wouldn't apply to even steel roses :)

OK, srry. I miss-interpreted

Please explain the difference in these two methods...

Very nice! Calipers are a project on my bucket list. :)

I have done exactly this. Cut cross peen off 3#er just at edge of eye. Heavily beveled a short length of 7/8 square (the size of my hardy holes) and preheated the head a little (Just to warm it up) and welded on the shank. Its now a fuller bottom tool. Apparently the welding has taken enough temper out of it as even the rare missed blow has not given issue :) Edit: BTW, I did dress the weld enough so as to allow the tool to sit flat on the anvil face; another reason to bevel the shank to just shy of a point. YMMV Scott

I never tire of seeing what you come up with next, Scrapartoz. As an avid GOT fan, I am again, not fatigued or disappointed :) Scott

I had a salamander crawl out of the garage/shop during the first slushy rain of the fall-winter shift. Dunno where he came from; no creeks or wetland nearby. Residential area. Also had an opossum trying to take refuge. Most recently; squirrels. The missus likes to feed them and we kept the cat litter bucket of wildlife feed just inside the front of the garage. I saw one of the now fairly tame rodents scurrying out when I came out of the house into the attached garage. Then notice the red and yellow flakes of plastic on the floor and chewed up rim of the bucket. Now I keep the (NEW) bucket deeper in the garage where (for now :unsure: ) the varmints aren't brave enough to venture :D Scott

After rethinking my earlier post it raises a question in my mind. To be fair I have only done 3 blades and a few tools, and I do all my HT either in my open garage or outside. I have never actually washed my materials and was suggesting it only to avoid the smoke and fumes while tempering indoors. I know you want to temper immediately after hardening so would washing even in hot water hinder the HT process? My apologies if anyone tried this with poor results. I sometimes speak faster than my gray cells work, but I try not to type in the same manner :o As a side note, the blades I did at home in my garage toaster oven didn't seem to give off any great amount of smoke or fumes that I recall but I did wipe off as much oil (I've been using new ATF) as possible... Scott

Thanks, James. I was thinking even lower tech. Old kiln with the melted cone switch (Not sure of correct term) The cone melts and allows a switch to close and shut down unit. I would have to experiment with cones to find the one that would work within the HT parameters I need, of course :) It would work at much lower temps and times required for ceramic firing so daughter could still use it as well...