arftist

Totally legal to own any size tank but most distributors will only sell the 3' and shorter ones. Suck it up. Buy an oxy and use a 20# propane tank. It will pay for itself repeatedly.

Waterglass solution.

Hi John I don't have your answers but to clarify for others Little Giant hammers also use the DuPont linkage.

I beam will not work in any manner for a hammer base. I will leave it to you to determine why as you must understand the dynamics involved.

I will measure my hammer later and post the actual butI think it is 14" If your larger pulley is crowned your smaller one can be flanged. I used a piece of 14" steel pipe and crowned it 2 degrees . If you fab it up a friendly machine shop might crown it for a reasonable price. The flat belt clutch works so well that it is worth it.

Pretty often. I use water to cool the isolate exactly where I want a bend. Either water or heating with a torch instead of a forge which I find slow and tiresome in general. I guess we all work differently.

Pretty sure you have that backwards. Propane regulators can be destroyed by ace but not vice-versa. This is what my has found, but I am open to proof otherwise.

Flat belt pulleys need to be crowned. You have a lathe? Mine is 3" but not an issue. 4 ply power transmission belting

Pretty sure most regulators are good for propane. Change your hose to "T" and save the ace for the few things it is better for. Actually the onething, which is gas welding.

Those new light weight tables are good for tig or light mig not much room for them in a heavy metal shop. All my tables are 1" thick. Still I tack to them sparingly and chisel off the tacks and go way out of my way to clamp instead using old men or even drilling and tapping. Tacking and grinding has ruined many 1" tick tops given enough years. 2" would not be overkill at all. Only my acorn table has stayed flat forever.

Gasoline torches are primarilly used to cut very thick metal. Not too many blacksmiths are cutting 12" plate.

My mast is two I beams welded together to form a box flange edge to flange edge. For you main pivot suggest you turn down a larger shaft at each end to the bearing diameter instead of relying on set screws to prevent side to side movement. My tup is 75# and I used a 1" turnbuckle. Better is a rod sliding in a pipe with a clamping bolt. Turnbuckle is very slow in comparison. I used bronze slides instead of plastic...suggest you do the same, much stronger. Made my slide from 3/4" cold rolled plate wouldn't reccomend much less. 1.5" base plate does not need reinforcing, waste of time. Laminating plates horizontally will waste much energy verticul is fine but not ideal. How are you planning to transmit power from jackshaft assembly to your pitman crank?

I would say not a PW. Missing the tell tale ledges on the feet.

Blacksmith. Make fences hand rails gates and other metal items forging, welding and machining.

Most any blacksmith builds his own bending jigs. Bending is one of the only four treatments you can do to iron (metal). It is therefore a needed skill to become a blacksmith. Suggest you buy some books. On the other hand I only build a jig if I can't bend it in my univeral bender (Hossfeld style) but I built that too. Finishing indoor iron parts is as simple as roughing the item up with sandpaper but not too much, the high spots should just shine a little giving a nice contrast then wax to stop rust.

Actually 10" is adequate but forget the wheels use plates instead.

Glad to see the safety aspect finally covered in this thread. Buffers are wonderful tools; I run two machines on one stand so I can progressively polish without having to stop. I am pretty terrified of buffing blades as I have had all manner of less dangerous items rippef from my grasp. I think I would only attempt such with a jig some type whether metal or wood and again for safety sake only use the botton 90° quadrant.

Wooden box full of sand is fairly popular. End grain hardwood particularly elm is traditional though some anvil manufacturers often offered cast iron stands too. Ringing is really only a problem when you miss the work and strike the anvil IMHO. If you are worried buy a Fisher they are great anvils and don't ring. For more efficient hammering get A300-400# anvil the difference is notable. 3 legged steel stands are popular of late but I recommend thich solid stock legs (1"x2" solid bar minimum) elsewise much energy indeed will be lost to springyness, since steel, as you know as an engineer has a high modulus of elasticity. The ultimate stand would be a large shaft or solid block of steel securely fastened to the earth. Something on the order of 6" solid round bar for example though one quickly reaches the point of diminishing returns. Again if hammer efficiency is your biggest goal consider a very large anvil and mount it very securely. I don't personally consider an anvil securely mounted when simply set in a box of sand but your miliage may vary.

Looks like a tool for working with chain links. It is missing it's long handles which would be the same as boltcutter handles. On closer inspection it looks like something else.

Pretty small lathe if 40'#s is enough.

Grind the weld with a hard wheel until you just start scratching the surface. Then switch to a flap wheel and carefully work out the scratches. Restore the scale with a heating torch by overheating the iron until it scales. It is best though to just remove all the scale.

Great work tables and easy to drill and tap for hold downs.

I have found similar lengths of 1/2" round in the form of hoops from old water tanks

True Lincoln tombstones have a curved top, weigh about 500# and are copper wound and yes seem to last forever. The buzz boxes (derogatory term) with the angular top can be copper or aluminum wound. Needless to say, the aluminum wound machines are prone to failure.

No not at all. Assuming you make the branch from pipe just the head of the screw fits into the pipe. The hole needs to be larger than the screw head, the slot just larger than the shank but smaller than the head. The slot needs to point upwards.