nonjic

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About nonjic

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    UK
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    perveyor of metal bashing machines

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  1. The magic is in the heat treatment, The skill is in the balance between the heat treat and a thin grind, one that has enough convexity, or concavity (or both) to prevent food sticking and superior edge retention. Chefs knives are very difficult to get right. Ask to have a look at his favourite knife. If you do not have the skill set to do it, make some excuses and make it when your skill set improves. The last thing you want is the reaction you give to the jumper you get from nan at christmas...... 'its nice'...... There is a reason so few people make chefs knives, they are incredibly difficult to do well, and a chef wont cut the punches if it does not cut properly. Which it wont, even if your only 10% behind the ball. I am grinding kitchen knives to 0.006" - 008" thick, 0.080" behind the edge before sharpening, which is a big ask,to hold consistent along a 9" edge. people go thinner than that, and kitchen knife enthusiasts will still say it needs edge thinning on the stones ! does this Steve sells make kitchen knives ? got any pics ?
  2. 2nd blade looks good man ! cant wait to see the 3rd - you will not be far behind some of the self styled gurus by blade 4
  3. Has all the know how on this site really 'done one' ? real shame. Ill go old skool and work it out myself.
  4. Hello ! I'm seeking advice on a type of hammer I don't have a great deal of experience with, hope you can help ! Are there any golden ratios for the pivot point centers (ram and pitman end), arm lengths and toggle lengths on a 'dupont' type linkage for optimal performance, as used on the tire hammers etc ? how is spring rate calculated for this type of linkage, or is it a suck it and see ? When the pitman is at bottom dead centre, spring compressed, should the dies have a small gap between them, with the toggles parallel ? Thanks, John
  5. Looks like you are doing a Rolls Royce job for that hammer Apologies if you contacted me and communication fell by the wayside. We are a small company and often under resourced when several big industrial jobs land at once ! If you have any questions when you get her fired up you can shoot me a mail at [email protected] and Ill try and help !
  6. 242 lb Massey. Most air hammers have the control to kiss the oil film on the bottom die when set up with a small degree of care. The Massey hammers are an extreme example of control, but i've worked on many brands of 'self contained' hammers (and forged on a good few) and never thought 'this is only good for smashing stuff with, heck, I wish I could be doing this work on a type of hammer that, although industry decided was obsolete 70 years ago, I could make some adjustments whilst the metal is getting cold, and slap it really slowly' The oft cited 'economy' of a mechanical hammer, because it uses a bit less juice, does not sit easily with me either (unless you have a severely restricted electricity supply so can't turn a larger motor) its like chopping off your foot to save on socks. If you are burning 50 kg of propane a day 'saving' 2 kwh of electricity does not make sense if you are even 5% less efficient at the forging end. I like mechanical hammers, don't get me wrong, but industry, 1000's of people, millions of tons of ironwork over decades of industrial development have firmly voted 'self contained air hammer'. Not just my opinion. In answer to the original question in this thread, in my opinion, 1/2 cwt self contained air hammer will do all you need. A smaller air hammer, like an Anyang 15 kg will forge it down no problem, but not so good for tooling work (a bit 'tippy tappy').
  7. 3 cwt hammer on test after I gave it a dose of looking at. This video just followed mine on youtube. 10 cwt, not sure if I supplied it, looks like a new installation. The interesting thing about this 10 cwt is it has the 'thought control' method of operation. No foot pedal.
  8. Massey made many hundreds, possibly thousands, of 'mechanical' hammers in many different configurations and designs. edit, They pretty well stopped making them as the air hammers did everything the spring hammers did, and a lot more. The ability to work at any point in the hammers stroke without making adjustments made them much more versatile for the use of tooling, knocking down 'high' workpieces into pancakes, before using a punch etc, before putting a saddle in and ring forging, using swages of different heights etc etc.
  9. Mechanical hammers slow down when you do a light 'planishing' blow, when if anything you want a light planishing blow to be faster. Air hammers have a constant strike rate. No annoying slowing down when you want to 'round up' a tenon or whatever. I like mechanical hammers, they are efficient little things, but not a patch on a well set up self contained air hammer. Lots of armchair b/s spouted in this thread IMHO. i do think that if someone got a quality 'little giant' type mechanical made in numbers in a low labour rate economy (which should cost buttons) they would still have a place in the market, and sell well.
  10. Its a 25 kg hammer, not a 15kg. Your electrician can't be much cop if he cant put 3 phases and an earth to a motor. If you have just bought the vfd, and the hammer has not run from it before (ie, it was on 400v 3 phase before) you will need to swap the bars over in the terminal box so the motor will run on 200v 3 phase. You can start the hammer in 'top setting' if you want, it will just pull an extra couple of amps. i vaguely recall that Tim modified the hammer so the 'tup at idle' position could be adjusted (so it 'tups' a bit when idleing). Easiest thing is to give me a bell again, and I will talk you through it all. Massey are selling the hammers again in the UK and Ireland. I am better at hammers than advertising though........... The pin on the top valve boss is a modification that I made to some hammers, It stops the valve travelling to 'clamp' position, which it does by default (ie, it travels past neutral into clamp) This 'default to clamp' can lead to problems when the hammer is left 'clamping' not in neutral. The clamp function is pretty well useless on small self contained hammers so I disabled it. If you put an ammeter on the motor you will see that the valve is arrested in the lowest current draw position by that pin. The 5/16" copper pipework was a pita to do, think it looks neat though
  11. Sounds like you have got it all in hand ! This was not a specific warning about the hammer manufacturer you have bought from, just a heads up that if you are not up to speed on the paperwork you can get hit with disproportionate charges when shipping LCL
  12. Actual shipping from China is not expensive. What you need to be careful of is the exporter offering you CIF terms, then shipping 'free' or at 'negative freight' - this is when the exporter gets paid by the shipping agent to put the customers goods in the container, and themselves nominated on the BOL. You are then 100% committed to using them to clear the goods through customs, and pay all manner of extortionate charges that they just make up, and heaven forbid that they have to store the goods in their warehouse for a few days once the container has been unstuffed at '!$mygodhowmuch$!' per day, because you have not been on the ball with the paperwork, and they wait until the last moment before they ask you for a *whatever* number that you can not lay your hands on until the next week ! Get into dialogue with all parties involved early about what you need, what you need to do, and when to avoid any delays once that ship docks !
  13. I would describe that Russian hammer as a C41 - I bet its valved nearly identically. We do quite a bit of work on Russian forging presses (TMP - Voronezh type) They were certainly not shy with the amount of metal they put into their machinery !
  14. If someone offered me that Russian hammer for 1000 Euro I would find a way to put it in the back of my car there and then, I wouldn't let it out of my sight