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About RobbieG

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  • Birthday September 2

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  1. One thing I have noted when making jigs for scrolls and curves (only made a few to be fair) is that an aesthetically pleasing curve on the jig does not necessarily translate to an aesthetically pleasing finished product - I'm guessing due to the offset caused by material thickness. I've found the best method is to make a first off or a sketch of the part I want then sketch an offset for material thickness of the jig, and make to that. Its worked OK so far. Also I understand that when forging time is limited it's nice to reach for off the shelf products, but that jig is not good. You have now invested repair time that could potentially have been used to make a more functional jig of your own (never mind the purchase cost for a substandard product).
  2. The dimensions are pretty close to my own (thought to be brooks but unmarked) and its 447lb (203Kg)
  3. Are you searching for rigidiser already mixed up? If so do a search for fumed or colloidal silica and make your own - its cheaper too
  4. This article is quite informative - unfortunately pressure to complete the project meant they took a risk that did not pay off - SQA is king! As an aside, 'Harland and Wolff was' is a little misleading - 'Harland and Wolff is' is more appropriate. Although they don't build ships anymore, they still do alot of drydock work and Offshore rig refurbs.
  5. Yeah that's what I was aiming towards - I have recently started using Onshape too and can recommend it. The main negative with the free version is your files are all public but if its not something you plan on selling probably not a concern. Also its cloud based so you can use it on tablets and smartphones too (note I have no affiliation with Onshape - just excited with modern technology! )
  6. For 2D work Draftsight is in my opinion the best free software available - the toolbars are almost identical to classic AutoCAD. For 3D work Sketchup is pretty decent - not on the same level as the big names but it doesn't cost £7k a year either! Just like in Blacksmithing the best way to learn is by doing - decide on a project and look up some tutorials for the techniques you think you need to use - Youtube is full of useful videos. One thing I would say is you could spend years drawing and redrawing scrolls to fit into different frames, so unless you get smart with the initial sketch creation, it may be worth only drawing up the frames and sizing scrolls the old fashioned way.
  7. I'm guessing he's suggesting you stipulate that the Structural calculations and installation are carried out by others who are suitably qualified. You are providing the chandelier ex works only and take no responsibility for any site issues.
  8. If you can mount it as it currently stands in the photo it will give you the best rebound - don't get sidetracked by the idea that you need a hardy hole - tools can be held in a vice or a piece of heavy wall box section welded on the end of your 'anvil'. The only thing I would say is 39" is pretty tall so knocking a few inches off to suit your own height might be needed in the future, just try it as is first. What do you intend to make? Some knifemakers have their anvils set pretty high to stop them stooping so much. I have my anvil set at 33" from the floor which is wrist height for 6' me - I don't make knives though.
  9. Yes that's pretty much it, because the joining members are in tension you can also go for a lighter section than before - even hollow section. Don't worry about the sketch, the intent is clear - if everyone had to resort to CAD to get a concept across we would be in trouble!
  10. You are going to need a large safety factor built into this since it is attached to the ceiling - what is the construction of the roof and can it safely handle this sort of load? Rather than rings connecting at angles might it be better to have a central structure on the main ring that the smaller rings are attached to vertically? It will add a little weight but would change joint loading from torsion to tension, and would still be hidden by the decorations - it also appears to be the typical design employed on tiered chandeliers. I would definitely recommend talking to someone with structural design experience if that is not your background, just for the reassurance that the design is safe.
  11. It depends where in the world you are. Gas rated tape in the UK is also white but comes on a yellow spool. The gas tape is not only thicker that the water tape but has a higher density too.
  12. Yep those are some really nice work, I may have to borrow that framed design if that's OK? Very creative
  13. That looks pretty similar to the clip on connections on UK patio gas/butane bottles - I have never seen an adjustable reg for those as the appliances that use them have needle valves fitted (they are usually 28 or 37 mbar fixed regulators)
  14. That type of clip on regulator is usually non-adjustable (in the UK at least) so that could be a problem. Where are you located?
  15. I have used glass filled nylon (Nylon PA66 GF30) sheaves for running wire ropes with good success (1/2" dia wires - several ton loads)- I would be surprised if they wear too quickly here.