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I Forge Iron

arftist

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Everything posted by arftist

  1. Can you calculate the theoretical blows per minute? How heavy is the tup?
  2. It would take intentional negligence to soften an anvil (or a large hammer head. Simply too much mass.
  3. It is very easy to anneal a hammer head. Accurate hammer blows are integral to forging...if you are striking the anvil you just need a lot more practice.
  4. actually either way will work but textbook is wider at the bottom.
  5. Still depends upon the construction method. Traditional in this region is a frame made of 3/8" round bar. the screen is stretched and then tightened using special tongs. The othe common method is to rivit the screen between two flat bar frames.
  6. Good t point worth repeating. Always season pans with solid fats, not oils.
  7. Use a soft hammer until you learn hammer control. Seriously.
  8. What size nails are you making? Make them bigger until you gain more skill. Bigger is easier.
  9. on your computer select a font you like, expand it to the right size, print, continue. Make each letter as similar to the printout as possible.
  10. examples example again last Note that this house is on salt water front. The iron was hot dipped then epoxy primed then sprayed with automotive paint. The finish was warranted for 20 years by the galvanizing company. The warranty would be voided by any welding. This rail was installed 9 years ago and though the gloss has since faded from the paint, it has yet to rust.
  11. 7018 is a code rod, fast fill slow freeze. It runs best uphill works flat too.. 7014 is similar but works in more positions including downhill.
  12. Best is to stick with your instincts and bolt it at the posts. What I do in a situation like this is weld a tab right under the top rail and right under the bottom rail and bolt them together with 3/8" flathead bolts. No attempt to hide the fasteners is needed, they are part of the job. When a customer is paying the premium price for hot dipped or metal sprayed iron work, they deserve the full protection not feild repairs from spray cans. When I install such work I used bolts.
  13. Best is to stick with your instincts and bolt it at the posts.
  14. Yet your preservation instinct is good. To best heed it, a few suggestions don't hammer cold steel on your anvil don't use a large sledge hammer on your anvil. if you do use a largehammer, pound over the waist not the heel or horn. don't cold form in your hardy hole. This is how heels break off. Practice hammer control. get good enough that you seldom if ever hit your anvil. lightly radius your edges to prevent chipping.
  15. The source was a rural trades guide written in England during the Great Depression.
  16. The thread topic is the basics. could you be a blacksmith without mastering these four treatments? Thinking back, the quote was even more limiting, specifically bending, twisting ,drawings and upsetting are the only four treatments available to the blacksmith. So limiting that one must assume that drawing includes slitting and cutting and upsetting includes welding and punching, etc.
  17. Perhaps I explained incorrectly? These are the four treatments a blacksmith must master.
  18. There are only 4 primary treatments; Bending Twisting Drawing upsetting Everything else is a subset of these four.
  19. Work with junk if that is your desire.
  20. Rusty; Beautiful anvil. Could you hit me up when you get a chance?
  21. Simple answer, It isn't an anvil. It is a lump of cast iron. A forgery if you will, likely made in Mexico. There is no steel top plate, value, close to zero, except as a (hopefully) learning experience.
  22. old power steering pump will give you 900psi, the hossfeld pump is only a 1000. couple to a 1 hp 1725 motor with equal size pulleys use 5 or 6" diameter for good belt traction. Buy a direction valve for control (1/2" ports). cylinders and valves available cheap from Burden Sales.
  23. Actually that is a grapnel anchor used for rocky bottom. It could also be used as a grapple. It is very clearly NOT wrought iron. An unhardened hammer is used in stone work to strike a tool. The struck end of the tool is sharpened to dig into the soft hammer face, preventing misblows from ruining the work.
  24. Do you feel better now? I don't. In fact I am at a loss for words. You come here and demand specific correct answers to questions you clearly have already answered in your mind. What makes you think we owe you these answers? Frosty's comments were correct as well as appropriate. You don't like them or don't understand then then ignore him. Frosty has forgotten more than you will ever learn with such a close minded attitude.
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