Emower

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About Emower

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    Glenwood, NM

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  1. I don't disagree with anything you all said. It's true and I respect that. However, I have had several private conversations both on this forum and in "the real world" who have told me they feel the same way I do. I mentioned this site to one guy who was getting into the craft and he said, "yeah, there are a lot of jerks on that site. A lot of good people, but a lot of jerks too, and I don't want to deal with the jerks." I think that is telling. Now if you don't care, great. But if you start asking the question about site traffic and you don't want this place to be an echo chamber there is my perspective. I hear what you're saying, and no Thomas, I don't think everyone needs an A. But I do think at a minimum, when someone posts a question, they shouldn't have to analyze if they are going to get belittled for asking. If you don't want to waste your time on it, don't. This has not been my experience nor 5 other people I know. Now I come back to observe, but I do not participate because I do not want to deal with blisters. Some people are smart enough to build up a callous without blisters.
  2. Alternatively the blister is so bad that it makes one think "whoa, I need to find a different way of doing this so that I don't have to deal with such a huge blister."
  3. I'm going to chime in here. I hesitate, but here goes. I tried to participate, but left with a bad taste in my mouth because of the curmudgeon effect. While I do not agree with that guy who said the site was awful to navigate, I do sympathize with his characterization of vets jumping down his throat. That happens often on this site, in my extremely limited experience. To be fair, it happens all the time over the Internet in general. It is difficult to communicate tone with computers unless you are willing to use all kinds of silly emoticons. Now I realize that you guys answer all the same questions over again, and we new guys seem to want information before looking for it, and we seem to ignore the stickies. I get it. What's the value of this anvil? Where can I find an 200 lb anvil for less than 50 bucks? My forge weld isn't taking, what am I doing wrong? There seems to be a simple solution to me; if it's a dumb question, don't answer it. The lack of answers will drive the questioner to do some research or leave. If you do want to answer, please be civil and hold the sarcasm. It's up to you what you want to spend your time on, if you decide to spend it on a dumb question don't take it out on the poster. I would like to add that the site really is irreplaceable. The amount of knowledge here is definitely something that would be missed if lost. Thanks to those who made it, keep it up, and keep it running. There will always be complaints, and maybe those with thin skin just don't fit in well here. But regardless it is an extremely valuable resource. I just built my second, much better and efficient forge based on knowledge acquired here. Here's lookin at you frosty.
  4. Agreed. It snagged the wife's dress the other day. Time to do a modification...
  5. I was pondering the other night about what people generally do for a living who are involved with this art. So what does everyone here do? Are there any orthodontists out there who are leading double lives as blacksmiths? Or are we all involved in some sort of metal working field? I work for the New Mexico Game and Fish as a Fish Biologist.
  6. I am struggling to word this so that it doesnt sound whiny or aggressive. I would like to meet you Thomas and talk and visit your shop so I dont want to make any enemies here. I know what hardening is. I know how it is done in many cases, I even know how these anvils were constructed. I have done some footwork What I dont know is how these specific anvils were hardened. I am aware of Postmans book, the libraries in my area do not have it, and for some reason wont get it on ILL. Its small town New Mexico, par for the course. I dont feel like spending $50 bucks to answer a very specific, very narrow question, and gambling whether the book has the answer. Does it have the answer? If it does and you feel morally obligated not to tell me because it is in a book, fine. I can rest easy knowing where to find the answer when I visit Albuquerque or Las Cruces next. I was hoping you or some other people with a lot of knowledge would know the answer and could tell me. I dont view you as some random people on a website. I agree that the expertly written book is best, but I dont have access to it. I am as tired as the next guy of all the dumb questions that could be answered if the asker would do the most basic of footwork. They seem to crop up with amazing frequency. I agree that my generation seems to want to just have all the answers handed to us on a platter with no effort other than a few keystrokes on our part. I analyzed this question before I posted. Is it an interesting question? Can I answer it myself with some research? I thought it was an ok question and I could not answer it to satisfaction without spending money on a book that may or may not have the answer. On this forum can we follow Thumpers Mom's adage? "If you cant say somethin nice, dont say nuthin at all."
  7. From what I understand hay buddens after a certain point (1920's-ish) were a two piece construction, a wrought base with the whole top half being high quality steel, welded on to the base. There was no top plate that was welded on. I just don't know how they were hardened on the top. From looking at the chips the hardened layer seems really thin. Someone with more knowledge then I might be able to enlighten us.
  8. Question about how hay budden were made. The other day I contributed a small chip on the step of the anvil. A little piece of me died as I did that, but as I got to looking at the chip and others, it appears as if there is a thin skin of hardened metal on top of the main body. My anvil was part of the later models that were forged from a solid piece of steel, as I understand it. So how was the anvil hardened? Is his skin a case hardening? Work hardening? Just curious. Sorry for the pictures, there is no way to rotate.
  9. Can we get these photos back anyhow? I was trying to see some pictures of how people make their slitters, and they are all gone, even after some people have put them back after disappearing the first time.
  10. I have found and read many posts about claying forges, but I am not real sure about fire pots. Does this forge need a fire pot or was is used as is? Obviously I would have to fabricate a grate to hold fuel out of the blower if I don't need a fire pot. I am in the process of restoring this forge. The original Canady Otto catalog does not mention a fire pot for this forge, but that doesn't mean I don't need one. I am real new to the noble art of smithing, and I don't want to do something stupid and crack this forge.
  11. That is really slick. Thanks guys, I never would have thought to take apart the hub on the drivewheel. I am looking forward to getting it going again.
  12. Thanks guys. Matto: so if I understand correctly, as it operates, the short belt wraps around, tightens up, stops the blower, then unravels the other way on the next stroke? So the blower will be reversing direction every other stroke? Thanks for your help, I am new to all this.
  13. just aquired a new (to me) forge and it needs some refurbishing. My question is, am I missing the gear/ratchet mechanism that for the drive wheel and the lever doohickey? I don't see how else the blower could be driven. All other forges I have seen have the gear/lever assembly as one piece, but maybe this model detached.