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Found 17 results

  1. Hi all. I have a Hofi Hammer that Uri signed on both sides of the handle. Any tips on how I could protect that portion of the handle so that I can still see the signatures without wearing them off or giving myself blisters? So far, it doesn't seem like I hold that part of the handle much, but I'm concerned that basing my hand location on preserving aesthetics won't end well for me; I'm currently receiving PT for tennis elbow and I want to proceed with caution.
  2. So I have a knife I'm making (what a shock) and I plan to use some red wood that I found to make the handle. I don't have the equipment to stabilized the wood and I know that moisture and such will cause the wood to warp if it's not stabilized. My question is, if I use linseed oil on the wood, will it protect the wood from absorbing excess moisture and warping? Alternatively, is there any way that I can stabilize the wood without having to make some elaborate vacuum chamber? Please let me know what you think. Thanks for reading. - Novak
  3. What do you think about this Gurkha Hand Forged Kukri?Do you like it?
  4. Sample drawer pull forged from 3-1/2" of 3/4" square bar, total length is 6", with 1-1/4" standoffs 3" on center
  5. I really hate the noise the handle makes when I let it go. I also dislike the pinching of my fingers and other meat parts around my hand. And its difficult to pull the handle up with the round ends. I further dislike the smell of elastic bands cut off and fallen from the vise's handle when hot iron finds them. So I went overboard, remembered the days when I sailed, and tied a turk's head knot. I do not know how long it will last but in the meantime, it works and if I may say so, it's nice to look at.
  6. Man, I've been posting a lot for the last couple days. Hope no one's getting sick of me yet! Anyway, I'm making a little skinner from some 5160 for an American explorer themed set. Because the theme is 19th century (though the knives are of a more modern design), I'd like to use wood for all the handles. Here's the rub: I want the skinner's handle to be very aggressively textured to make it more slip-resistant when you've got your hands deep inside a deer or elk carcass... I'm thinking something along the lines of the popular wood texturing you see on the grip of a 1911--kind of a diamond-y pattern... Any ideas? I was thinking maybe one of those Dremel sandpaper discs without a backing would cut a thin enough line that it would work, but any of the burrs might be too thick. Google hasn't turned up much because most "gun grip texturing" is about how to melt polymer.
  7. Greetings, Im a first time poster trying to figure out what type of machine may have killed my ancestor. Here is the story from his obituary from 1914 (you can also see the original newspaper clip in the attachment) : Bertram Werner was a blacksmith for the Soo Line in North Fond du Lac, Wisconsin. On December 15, 1913 he was engaged in his usual work as a blacksmith in his shop when a handle of a machine struck him in the stomach. He damaged his spleen and died from his injuries in July of 1914. There isn't much to go on but here are the main points: Time period: 1913 Type of work: Train industry - Soo Line Location: Fond du lac Instrument that injured him: handle of a machine Thank you!
  8. I had a woodworking router table for quiet some time now. It has 4 drawers and no handles :o My daughters dresser needs some handles and it seems as if they are so expensive everywhere. I took this opportunity to learn how to make my own drawer pulls. I filmed it to show how easy it was and that you can add different designs to the handles. Check out the Video Here And for those that just want pictures, no worries, I'm including finished pictures. The first one was just done to figure out the technique and the second (bottom one) was to see if i could get an ok turn out. Let me know your thoughts and as always, tips and suggestions are appreciate.
  9. Roy Ubu

    Fly door grab

    Hard, black, magnetic.

    © smine

  10. Hey folks! So I've been doing some research on stag handles. I've got some hunter-style blades made but they're yearning for a beautiful stag handle. The research I've found shows that people do this about 30 different ways lol. Some people state that they drill out what they can, then heat the tang up red hot and push it into the antler and it melts away like butter. Other people say they drill the entire thing out (even with a curve?!) and fit it that way. Some pin the handle, some don't. I've also seen where some seal the stag handle, some don't. Here are my two questions: 1. What seems to be the most effective way to do so without risk of cracking the antler? 2. Do you prefer to seal the stag handle or leave it natural? If so, what is your go to sealant? I had tried one technique where put a cherry red heat on the tang and shoved it into the antler... CRACK!
  11. Hello! So many beautiful axes in this thread, I feel completely humbled by all of the artistry. I am working towards making my first axe. I still have to make my drifts before I can do it, but hopefully soon after that I'll be starting. I had a couple of simple questions though; at least, hopefully simple questions. One, how many sizes of drift do you think I need? I have a slit punch that I made, but I am curious if I should do a 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch drift, or if just a 3/4 and a 1 inch will do the job? Wouldn't be difficult to make the extra one, but I'm just curious what the experts think. I am leaning towards making square drifts for my first ones; seems like it will be easier to carve a square handle than a round one. Two, what type of wood do you prefer for your handles? I have 20-some wooded acres, so I imagine I have access to just about any kind of tree that grows in Southern Indiana, and I would like to source the handle material from something locally here on my property, and carve the handle myself. Even if it does wind up far more "rustic" than intended. :) Three, starting material. For ease of use, I thought that I might just pick up a 4" piece of 1x1 steel at the local warehouse. Rather than trying to forge my first hawk out of scrap that may require more work, (and skill,) I thought I might start with something simple and then move on to making them out of other things. I don't want to over-complicate my first one. I appreciate in advance any responses to this question, and I hope that I am not over-reaching with a project of this size at my current level of experience, (or lack thereof.)
  12. scoobshagg


    Handles installed on the board, looking very nice I might add.
  13. scoobshagg


    A handle I made for a client, wanted a simple handle, with a square nail.
  14. Can you Forge a Claw Hammer into a Cross Peen? Now this is a question I have been asking myself for a while now. I have an old Claw Hammer, which is actually pretty new, that could serve me much better as a Cross Peen. I know this may seem absurd but I would sincerely like to know if anyone has tried it before, or anything similar. I am new to blacksmithing and I have so many questions, but I thought I might as well start with a good (difficult) question. I think, if it were attempted,that you would have to ( Forge?) weld the claw side together and then forge them into a triangle shape, then heat treat and temper it. Again I am a complete Newbie to Blacksmithing but I am willing to learn!!! Thanks Guys, Jakob P.S. Here are some photos of the Hammer:
  15. Thought I would share a few pics of the latest blade I finished. It is hand forged 5160 steel. It is 11 1/2" total length. Blade is 6" long and 2" wide. About 5/32 thick. Handle is 5 1/2" long. Knife was done all by hand. Forged, draw filed, hand sanded up to 2500 grit. I left a few forging marks in the blade to give it a little character. It has a convex cutting edge that cuts really good. Handle is stabilized bone scales pinned with 3/32 304 SS pins. It has black vulcanized liners. Bone scales hand rubbed down to 1000 grit for a real smooth finish. Sheath is 6/7 oz leather. Pouch style sheath, hand sewn. Full welt that his been burnished and finished with Fiebing brown edge coat. Sheath is natural veg tan finished with neatsfoot oil and a top coat of mink oil. No dye or tooling on this one. I really like the way this knife turned out. I hope you guys like it too!
  16. I am finishing up a blade to be used in an axe or spear that I made from a lawnmower blade. Its 13 inches long, 2 inches wide, & 1/4 inch thick. Of the 13 inches long, 9 will be blade. The tang goes 4 inches into the handle. The weight is 1 pound, 10.3 ounces. My issue is that I can’t seem to find a guide on what proportions a blade should be to the handle. I don’t want to mount it and then have to take apart again over and over if its not right. Any suggestions, videos, books, or places I can look? Thanks for the help.
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