arftist

I have been using the same slightly swayed Hay Budden for my entire career. I make a great many colonial style strap hinges, often 3 feet long or longer. I have no problem getting/ keeping them dead flat. As Thomas said a slight sway helps immensely. My last year on the road I spent at the shop of a well known smith with nothing but the best of everything. I did a LOT of straightening on heavily hammered pieces. It was much more difficult for me to do a large volume of straightening on dead flat anvils. I entirely disagree that a slightly swayed anvil is worn out. I have anvils that were worked all the way through the top plate. Perhaps used on a sole task yet for the majority of the lifespan they were "worn out".

Sounds like you are creating way more problems and expenses for zero gain.

Unless you have free electricity mechanical is the way to go for a hobbyist. Roughly 80% more efficient than air.

Jeremy who posted the post I am complaining about has the title "administrator" You defended the use of the tool as pictured (the cutter is a milling cutter designed for a 2000 pound stationary machine). I am asking you to retract your statement.

Really? The only correct way to use this tool is as the manufacturer tells you to. It seems that many who use this tool every day still get maimed.

This post is unbelievable to me. I don't understand why it hasn't been deleted or even how someone with so little thought towards safety ever became an administrator here. I am an aluminum fabricator, I use skil saws to cut aluminum constantly, have for decades. This is NOTHING like a skil saw. It isn't a skil saw blade it is a cutter for a stationary milling machine which weighs thousands of pounds and having a max speed of a couple thousand rpm.

This is very true.

It is very useful in concrete. Also makes good weight in a scrap load.

Add 3 millimeters (1/8") for epoxy. Series of holes and a chisel. Super important that you thoroughly clean the hole for epoxy to be effective. You could also weld the hinge arm to a plate and bolt the plate.

Fiberglass stinks when heated that much. I have an ash can (galv) I scoop out a sufficient quantity into a bucket or whatever, toss the part in, cover in ash. The largest item I have done this way was an exhaust manifold. Did't mean to attack your method, it works for you. For me, ash is much more convenient. As to braze welding large parts, I agree, brass is easier. I pretty much only nickel things that are exposed to great heat such as wood stoves and exhaust manifolds. Silicon bronze bare rods work great with TIG FYI.

If you are really worried about safety then only use type T hose. Thomas already explained why flashback arrestors are not required for Oxy-Propane.

Impossible. The epoxy will vaporize and interfere with the weld. TIG brazing is the easiest form of either TIG work or any other kind of brazzing. Use a silicon bronze welding rod. Bare. Fiberglass is not quite sufficient. Instead it should be deeply buried in ash.

Flashback arrestors

Not needed for propane.

One must also use a propane rated hose, type T. FYI, I own all my own tanks including very large ones. Some I bought at police auctions, Some I found at the local trash collection area. All the dealers in my area will fill them provided I have an account and proof of ownership. I have saved untold thousands of dollars this way. The disadvantage of owned tanks is that they don't get swapped, They get sent to the plant to be filled. About a week out. For this reason I have four large oxy tanks and two large argon tanks. I only have one large argon CO2 mix but I use that the least and can substitute pure CO2. As well I have many acetylene B tanks and other small tanks. For convenient use I transfer gas from the large tanks to small ones (oxy and argon) using pigtails I bought from the welding supply for about $20 American.

Rivets will be fine in this application.

Couple things in general; Stainless stick welds great with far less heat imput. Pre bending the offending piece in the opposite direction works well. This can be as easy as clamping the tee bottom to a stout table at each end with a bit of .25" round bar under the center. Finally learning to straighten warped metal is critical to working stainless. It is spooky at first but becomes less mysterious with experience. Large dead blow hammers are an important bit of kit for the stainless fabricator.

Yup and the more they hoard the lower the supply.

Yet a few collections have more anvils than thousands of users.

Anvils under a hundred pounds are worth the most per pound. Collectors drive the market. In a tight market that is a fairprice, a good anvil and very usable as is. As others have said do not attempt to improve it.

Fellows who dressed grinding stones for grain with chisels were the origins of this saying. Can't remember exactly but it had something to do with metal bits in the hands of the worker.

No it would be because the rolled thread have more of a radius in the bottom while the cut thread presents a sharp notch which is a stress riser or the point at which a crack can begin also known as the notch effect.

Solid wrought refers to the body of the anvil. It could hardly be solid steel if it is solid wrought. So, to clarify ; solid wrought iron body, steel top plate. Also, PWs have among the hardest top plates. An overly swayed version simply been worked long and hard.

You can actually buy hemisperes. Careful fit up, some good TIG welding Electro polishing will not give a mirror shine though so expect to spend a lot of time polishing.

304 would be adequate but 316 would be better. Also I would use 3mm if stainless is your choice. Some will heartily disagree but I do a LOT of stainless work and 3mm is much easier. Nitric acid works for passivation and that will also take care of any contamination.