Steve Sells

Sure. just be careful of hydrogen contamination from prior usage.

Spider web

gotta find a tent, maybe I could bring my pavilion or since its just me, a tarp...... hmm I also heard somewhere Dodge is bringing a KEG of beer

Knee mail sent for Ted and his lady, also he was the first to welcome me here.

while at a Ren Fair a few weeks ago, during a dead time of the hot day, the jousting group came by on their horses. A stallion wandered over and nuzzled me, Just to say hello. Since had a few kids watching, I had to ham it up... so I said to the horse: If you are here for new shoes, that is fine but I am NOT going to change your oil too. the kids liked that one.

Looking at that photo of your out door set up. . Change out that Receptacle for a GFCI, Use the side chain feature to power the blower. it may be $10 for a GFCI but that is cheaper than killing yourself. also get covers on them

Light dimmers are very hard on electric motors, I have heard of people using them with no trouble, but I played it safe and paid for a ceiling fan speed control, its much easier on the motors than a cheapo light dimmer. just my 2 cents. Also I happen to be an electrician.

I would like to get started in a few weeks with the assembly, so far I do not have as much as we were expecting, IF those of you can get your things sent out soon we would be grateful. ALSO anyone planing to send anything that has not already.... please PM me and let me know what you have to send, and how many. Because its hard to arrange flowers before I know how many Ii have to work with, and I cant do much with what I already have here, without leaving enough space for the future additions coming. Thank you.

where did you got those numbers? the 3450 or 1750 rpm is because of AC having 60 cycles for incoming power in the states. The blades being turned size and shape determine the CFM being moved. both these motor speeds Can produce the same CFM with various fan blades being used. also I very much doubt a line shaft was turning anywhere near 3450 rpm.

lol you are asking US, people that dont even know what the tool is, to ID the steel used to make it? I love this place :)

I would not use 1095 for a large blade of any kind, and I have no idea what 5060 is. First: You really need to slow down and read a bit, we can only tell you so much in short answers of a forum Second: You do not seem to know what questions to ask, but yet you expect us to take our time to tell you what has already been discussed in the forum. Much of what you have been asking is already posted in the blade section, but hinting is not helping so I will state it clearly: Read what is already written on this forum before asking questions on the forum. Third: Asking us to assist a child (according to your profile) in how to make a weapon may be a crime in some locations. The manufacturing of the weapon is not something to be taken lightly. It requires research, learning, and skill that takes years of experience to achieve. What have your parents said to you about this?

1525 to 1550F is what I recommend, there is quite a bit written about this in this section, read up and if you have more questions, ask away

Congrats !!!!! 5 star striker there

before you pour think about electric power, I have 1 inch PVC lines, turning into EMT above ground, to distribute from the panel rather than have conduit all over the ceiling and walls. (think corners and conduit) also may want to think about a floor drain

that is normal and standard for grounding rods.

I agree this has turned into a good thread. the point I was making is most wont expect 1020 to make a good blade, but thats close to what RR spikes are. People forget the differences between structural ratings (spikes, I-beam A-36) vs content ratings (10xx series, L-series). Content is close to what we expect, but the structural rating can be way out there, as to content.

when the wife is away use the home oven, clean the oil off first. Making blades isnt always easy on a low budget for equipment but it can be done. Some of us have spent a lot of money on equipment, and not just because it was fun to spend the money.

His question was about a knife, while I am sure one can make a knife shaped object from balsa wood, I would not consider that a good edge for a blade either. This is the blade section, so therefore anything here refers to blades. Normally, open questions about blades and hardening, refer to their edge holding ability, so in this context RR spikes are not able to be hardened enough to make them usable as a real blade due to low carbon content, I have steeled edges to make them usable, but this is much easier to do when in spike form than after being thinned to blade thickness, but maybe I am just "nit picking" now too :)

HC does NOT mean high carbon steel, I have not found out who started that false rumor....

Electrical contractor here... I do know a 3 phase instillation run would cost close to 1,500 per pole if you dont already have 3ph in the building. For any shop I would recommend no less than 200 amp servise, it is not going to cost you that much more than the 100, becasue its the same amount of labor, and only slight upgrade in the material for the service entrance, and panel itself. 20 amps must be a typo, as no one will install any main panel of less than 100 amps these days. even sub panels are rated more than 20 amps. Steve Sells Lemming of the Fancy Schmancy Self Proclaimed Master

no you cant HT a spike, sorry read about heat treating and you will understand that one needs at least 35 points of carbon to harden a steel

also the base and the top coat may not be the same type. thats always asking for a bad Finish.

I agree use the foam, maybe coverd with aluminum foil for a nice shine.

Tailgating http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/16-tailgating/