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Found 16 results

  1. Greetings, I recently had a conversation with a blade maker who told me that his method for hardening and tempering is as follows. Using a tub of water, he places all but the half inch of edge in the water. He then takes an oxyacetylene torch and heats the metal using slow circular motions until it is bright red. He continues evenly down the blade in this manner until reaching the end. When the color fades, he takes the knife out of the water and lets it finish cooling in the air. This is very different from any other method I've heard of. Has anyone tried this themselves? Is this a
  2. Brand new here, but I thought I might jump into it. I have some annealed 1/8" 52100 flats that I was hoping to use for a pair of pruning shears for my foreman at work. And yes, I'm familiar with how 52100 forges. I've made a few knives from it. It's just that I've never really spring-tempered anything before (as shown in the design). As far as equipment, I have a break drum coal forge, a few punches, wolf-jaw tongs, a straight peen hammer, some hot cut chisels, a rail anvil, and a low speed bench grinder with a sanding attachment. With what I have, how do you think I should best
  3. So recently I was involved in a debate about steel, more precisely, modern carbon steels used in knife making. This may seem like a bladesmithing topic but I think it applies better to general forging of modern carbon steel. at any rate its a good study of material science. It started as I overheard some general conversation about forging a complicated knife shape vs stock removal to achieve the same shape. the argument was that in a "modern carbon steel" it dosnt matter whether you forge the shape or mill or grind it away, it would achieve the same strength once it was properly heat
  4. I was recently on the Anvil section of the forums asking about replace a cast iron face with an steel one. I haven't quite yet decided on whether I will or not. However I am leaning towards not replace the cast iron face. Now my issue with the cast iron face is just how soft it is. I realize that sounds a little bit strange however it dents rather easily, (I was under the impression that Cast Iron was very brittle not soft.) So I was wondering if possibly when I refinished the anvil face with a Angle grinder I might have undone whatever temper there was on it. (Not knowing too to much about pr
  5. One of the age old methods for making hardie tools is to forge the tool to the basic shape and size of the hardie hole and then heat the tool, place it in the hardy hole and hammer it into the hole so that it fits the shape of the hole and has a flange around it - Noting on my new anvlil that this method tends to draw the heat to the anvil as would be expected but is also affecting the heat treating around the hole - Not wanting to hurt the temper of my anvil face I'm looking at alternate methods of fitting the tools - any other ways folks are doing this? I'd sure like to keep this anvil pris
  6. I wanted to make a spring flatter for a class I'm in but I didn't have thick plates of high carbon steel to make the striking plates. I decided to take two pieces of mild plate steel that were 2"x2"x1/2" and weld four pieces of auto leaf spring pieces that were 2"x2"x1/4" on the top and bottom with a MIG welder,I welded all around the edges essentially making a steel sandwich with the leaf spring as bread and the mild as the meat. What would be the best method of heat treating so that all three of the different metals used in the construction can stay stuck together and survive the hammer blo
  7. as always there's tons of conflicting info out there. i'm making a square edge hardy tool mainly for tenons and lap joints from a piece of track. since there's really no way of knowing what the steel is for sure any thoughts on how to heat treat. after the time it's taking to forge a 4" section into what i need it would really suck if the thing cracks from being too brittle. any suggestions or a link would be great ...thanks
  8. I forged a couple of knifes from 1084 steel and hardened them at the forge. The dimensions are 1/8 th of and inch at the spine, about 1 inch wide and 6 inches long excluding the stick tang. I brought them home to temper them in my gas oven. I was aiming at 450 degrees. I put them on a rack in the middle of the stove and put a thermocouple probe next to them. (Klein tools multimeter MM200) I set the oven to 450 degrees and monitored the temperature as indicated on the multimeter. I found the oven temperature varying by plus and minus about 50 degrees around the 450 degree setting so I reset
  9. I am looking for a way to measure the temperature of my steel in the forge and wanted to see if anyone in the forums has experience with an IR temperature sensor. In particular, this is the current listing on Amazon.com that I am considering: http://www.amazon.com/Handheld-Non-Contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Targeting/dp/B007EYX0TS/ref=sr_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395934068&sr=1-17&keywords=high+temperature+type+k The temperature measurement range is -58-3002F and also has a thermocouple input channel. If anyone has experience with this unit, please let provide some f
  10. I tempered my first knife a day ago at about 400 degrees( my toaster oven only goes by hundreds of degrees). I put it in the oven and left it there for two hours. When i pulled it out it came out looking like a rainbow.What did i do wrong? I've spent some time thinking about it and i've come up with a few ideas as to why that happened. I put the knife in the oven diagonally because that was the only way it would fit, the middle of the knife turned blue right where that knife rested, above the heating element, on the rack.The blue is interrupted by a bronze strip exactly where the knife rested
  11. Hey guys, I'm a newbie, but Theo Rock Nazz is NOT. Check out this video I did of him when he was heat-treating a blade I've seen him craft for months. It's at night in his own forge in the snow, it's kind of badass but not as much as he. Watch him and the energy he puts into his art, listen to the commentary he gives:
  12. Here is the start(midway)building of a Heat Treating / Burnout Oven(for lost wax casting wax burnouts) I'm building. 14" x 14" x 17-1/2" tall inside. This will have 4 heating elements. Grooves made with a standard wood router and a template. The temp will be controlled by a PID digital controller w/ ramping step option. More pictures to come.
  13. Having a problem with the working end of my tools not seeming hard enough. When I push a file accross the end, it wants to bite more than skip, and when put into hot work use, they don't seem to hold their edge for too long. A few more details; I let the tool soak in my forge at an orange, non magnetic temp before plunging into a water quench and use a map gas torch on the non business end to run the colors before quenching again. I have been told that placing the tool in a 400 degree oven for 1 hour afterwards helps, but I didn't think it was necessary. Is this a question of letting the colo
  14. I'm trying to harden and temper a tomahawk made from a ball peen hammer head. I have no idea when or from what the head was made from. I assume tool steel, definetely carbon steel. It was heavily rusted when I rescued it. I don't have an original picture but I have a couple after the first session. I annealed it and want to get it back to at least it's original hardness. I'm not sure what temp or how long to oven temper it. I'm considering a coal forge tempering and quench. Do you quench when you bring a piece out of the oven when tempering? I've been reading a little on this but I hav
  15. In the months that i've been actively smithing, ive come acros a rumor that i would like to resolve. A few people that i know have told me that when you burn coke hot enough, it will add carbon content to a piece of steel. Is there any truth to this? or is it just a rumor?
  16. Hello all, This is my first real post, and it starts with a problem. Today I snapped a knife blade in half. A friend asked for a filet knife so I forged one as thin as I could get it. I am using a propane/firebrick forge. The steel was car leaf spring steel. I forged the blade. Normalized it twice. Heated it to bright orange, quenched it in motor oil once. Out of the motor oil the blade warped a small amount. I then polished the blade up some, and put it in a toaster oven at 400F for an hour. Once it was finished, I put it back into the oven for 425F for another hour. I began polishin
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