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Showing results for tags 'pipe'.
Found 5 results
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I'm in the process of building my first venturi forge. It'll be a simple forge based off of Michael Porter's book. The main question I have is one I can't seem to find an answer to. I read LP rated teflon tape is a no-no for pressurized gas lines. So properly rated dope paste is what I hear some people use. My question about that is do you use pipe dope on your lines? If so, do you use pipe dope on your high pressure regulator, the line coming from it, the pressure gauge on the regulator, the quick shut off valve, and the backside of your burner where the line connects? I assume the last gets a little too warm for dope to work correctly, but I want to know what you guys do anyway. My concern is dope getting the regulator, gauge, and possibly the burner all fouled up. My other concern is having a gas leak and potentially losing my shop and/or some parts that I was born with. I know that it's a touchy subject, so I'll state for the record that I take full responsibility for everything that goes right or wrong in my shop and on my property. I'm only asking what you folks do for your venturi forges. I am not asking for you to tell me what to do. If you know of a resource I can use to get that information, I would greatly appreciate that as well. Thanks, Patrick
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Hey all, I've recently come across a large batch or 1.5" Malleable Iron lock-rings (nuts, threaded washers, depends who u are). I'm wondering if anyone out there has ever worked with malleable iron before? I know the rough details of it, it's a white cast iron, no good, etc,etc..... but I have been able to hot-cut, bend, twist, and shape one of these as a test. I found that at anything above a dull red or maybe up to an orange shade, it seems somewhat useable, above that it can crumble under the hammer. Any thoughts or experience with this? I have 675+ of these... So I'm hoping to make them useful in the shop beyond their original use, which I don't need them for. Thanks to anyone that can help!
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I use a very, very dirty coal. however, i can get it for $10.00 per 100#. So, brake drum forge does not work, clinker clogs the grate in minutes. so, without further adieu, the Trough style 55 side blast with chimney. Thoughts? ideas? suggestions? also, for updates about the building of this, check my blog in the blogs area, Toolception; Claw to peen. Thanks! click on the image to zoom in. thumbnail is quite small
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This started life as 28 inches of copper pipe and a lot of lurking on here. Will be a wedding present for my brother. Any ideas on how to personalize it? I need to add something wedding like......any ideas welcome.
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Hey Folks, I´d like to ask for your advise on a project I want to start soon. My shop is half oudoors so I have a roof over the head but literally no walls. Until now I have always had my forge standing just free and hoped for good wind... But as you can imagine I take quite a lot smoke and dust and I mustn´t damage my body with stuff like that at my age. So I want to install a smoke hood over my forge. The only problem is that I only have a very limited budget of about 180$. So I guess I have to take a DIY-solution. After some research and discussions with some fellow blacksmiths I came to the conclution that this design (I know I ain´t very good at drawing...) would give me the biggest bang for my buck: This is my shop: And this is the design I´d like to try: The hood will be built from an old oil barrel, cut out on the front and bent upside to form a guiding-shield. On top of that the chimney will be installed reaching through the roof of my forge with min. 8" diameter. Would you also advise me to do it like that or do you have a solution (any construction plans) that might be more (cost)effective? I´d be very happy about any advise you give me! - Daniel
