Mikey98118

Yup, and we have several curmudgeon buddies keeping us honest

No Wayne, I think they will both do a better job, overall. ITC-IOO will maybe give five to seven percent more reflective, with zero mechanical toughness; a poor trade-off.

You were going to buy a COMMERCIAL forge, but don't think you can afford a couple of hand tools?

If you have the choice, I recommend heavy wall capillary tube (AKA gauge tubes) over thin wall hypodermic tube, if you can find them in the orifice diameters desired (as they are far less inclined to be partially dissolved by flux, should you be a little slow in your braze work). Different companies have various orifice sizes available; one of them well stock tube in .020” inside diameter, and another will stock .023” instead

As to what burner to use; there is nothing wrong with the "T" burner.

When you get your fuel cylinder problem resolved, change out your reducer intakes for 2" X 3/4" and go back the the smaller MIG tip. Then send a flame photo, so that we can see if your flame nozzles will work on this burner.

Actually, your burner is running very well, considering there is no practical flame retention nozzle. So, begin by mounting it in a forge; alternatively, build or buy a working flame retention nozzle.

Also, we have a constantly expanding choice of products, with an ever greater need to look into their details. There is no is no such thing as just soft and hard bricks anymore; and even the same use rating of bricks, like as 2600, is a poor guide to go by; you need to read and understand their technical references.

I think you have the right of things, and I am surprised that someone on the English side of the pond hasn't already posted all the essential pipe facts for forge builders in the UK.

Excellent forges can be built with little more than a couple of hand tools and a Dremel rotary tool from eBay. You are going to need a few of these tools anyway if you ever plan to build anything practical with your forge.

"I made a small production of burners and like our children, there are not 2 of them identical.It would take a lot of file work to fine-tune them all similar to one another, but I do not think that the result is worth the work." Only to perfectionists; it would make no difference in a forge.

BLacksmith 450 states "I made a small production of burners and like our children, there are not 2 of them identical. It would take a lot of file work to fine-tune them all similar to one another, but I do not think that the result is worth the work?" For all practical purposes, the answer is no. Once any of these burners are heating a forge, the major impacts of their flames are nearly universal, and the minor differences are only of interest to maniacs like me

EDE, Sorry for the slow reply. The information is on the Web, but it takes a lot of winnowing. I will gather what I have from old files, and post here.

The first thing I see is that there's no gas assembly OR ANY THREADED HOLE FOR ONE on that burner; this leads me to the a suspicion that you were just aiming a temporary gas jet down through the burner, without any way to ensure it is centered or parallel to the burner's axis. You had scant chances to judge your burner's performance that way.

You need to tighten up your questions a whole lot before we can provide useful answers.So, I will start with a couple of questions you didn't ask. If you are planning on using that pipe as a forge shell, than don't. It is going to cost a lot of effort to cut and drill through its thick wall. The one photo that looks interesting is of a very nice looking reducer fitting; it would make a fine beginning of a linear burner.

Pay a couple of bucks to offer them on eBay. Make sure to show the burners running, and don't forget to challenge the competition to show their flames. Blacksmiths are just as capable of being airheads as any other group of people. If you like, I will endorse them. Your prices are more than reasonable for a burner that produces that flame.

Frosty, It's not my business to talk about your "T" burners on this thread or any other; that shouldn't slow you down one bit in doing so here.

Whether you are the cleverest burner builder or just the luckiest, I know not; nor do I care. it is plain that you can build a burner with an excellent flame with less work than mine, and I hope you will either build them commercially or show others what you know.

I suggest you do. Kastolite should be backed up with ceramic blanket unless you have unlimited funds for fuel.

You are invited to place it in the Forges 101 section. I think it is a worthwhile example of a forced air brick pile forge; this gives those who are thinking about brick forges, and people thinking about forced air or fan blown burners a nice example too.

You need more area between the front burner and the exhaust opening, whichever way you choose to do that.

You will want to drill a hole, with a carbide incrusted hole saw through one of the bricks (Harbor Freight tools), or pour a "brick" with a hole in it from refractory. You can buy small amounts of castable refractory from Wayne Coe.

Please listen to Jasent's advice. In the first place, you are looking at a more expensive forge, with limited usefulness. Although this brand seems to have adequate burners, that configuration is infamous for producing more back pressure than naturally aspirated burners can cope with; they are coping by placing two out of the three burners too close to the exhaust exit; not a great way to produce an efficient forge...

We need more information to give a definitive answer. If it inside a forge? Out in the open, no way.

The flame is lightly reducing. Lots of people prefer such a flame, but you will need to be careful to provide a box fan to blow any carbon monoxide outside your shop, when running such a flame; it will also cost between seven and ten percent of your forge's heat, waisted as "dragon's breath" that you also won't enjoy.