Mikey98118

The first thing I see is that there's no gas assembly OR ANY THREADED HOLE FOR ONE on that burner; this leads me to the a suspicion that you were just aiming a temporary gas jet down through the burner, without any way to ensure it is centered or parallel to the burner's axis. You had scant chances to judge your burner's performance that way.

You need to tighten up your questions a whole lot before we can provide useful answers.So, I will start with a couple of questions you didn't ask. If you are planning on using that pipe as a forge shell, than don't. It is going to cost a lot of effort to cut and drill through its thick wall. The one photo that looks interesting is of a very nice looking reducer fitting; it would make a fine beginning of a linear burner.

Pay a couple of bucks to offer them on eBay. Make sure to show the burners running, and don't forget to challenge the competition to show their flames. Blacksmiths are just as capable of being airheads as any other group of people. If you like, I will endorse them. Your prices are more than reasonable for a burner that produces that flame.

Frosty, It's not my business to talk about your "T" burners on this thread or any other; that shouldn't slow you down one bit in doing so here.

Whether you are the cleverest burner builder or just the luckiest, I know not; nor do I care. it is plain that you can build a burner with an excellent flame with less work than mine, and I hope you will either build them commercially or show others what you know.

I suggest you do. Kastolite should be backed up with ceramic blanket unless you have unlimited funds for fuel.

You are invited to place it in the Forges 101 section. I think it is a worthwhile example of a forced air brick pile forge; this gives those who are thinking about brick forges, and people thinking about forced air or fan blown burners a nice example too.

You need more area between the front burner and the exhaust opening, whichever way you choose to do that.

You will want to drill a hole, with a carbide incrusted hole saw through one of the bricks (Harbor Freight tools), or pour a "brick" with a hole in it from refractory. You can buy small amounts of castable refractory from Wayne Coe.

Please listen to Jasent's advice. In the first place, you are looking at a more expensive forge, with limited usefulness. Although this brand seems to have adequate burners, that configuration is infamous for producing more back pressure than naturally aspirated burners can cope with; they are coping by placing two out of the three burners too close to the exhaust exit; not a great way to produce an efficient forge...

We need more information to give a definitive answer. If it inside a forge? Out in the open, no way.

The flame is lightly reducing. Lots of people prefer such a flame, but you will need to be careful to provide a box fan to blow any carbon monoxide outside your shop, when running such a flame; it will also cost between seven and ten percent of your forge's heat, waisted as "dragon's breath" that you also won't enjoy.

(1) Even if we coax a perfect flame from your burner, you will need two that size to run this forge. (2) rotate the forge so that its burner is positioned at 11:00 o'clock; the position it's in would only work if it was aimed at a significant tangent to the shell. You want the flame to impinge closer to the near end of the eventual floor; not beyond its center, as it would if left where it is. (3) Your burner needs to be able to mount through a burner port. This is accomplished by trapping the burner within a pipe or tube with an inside diameter that is able to pass the burner, with flame arrestor nozzle in place, through the forge shell; it is captured there with three bolts threaded through its tube; I prefer six bolts arainged in two circles. At present your burner is protruding way too far into the forge. (4) The burner's air intake holes are too small; enlarge them as much as you can without over running each other, and then ground off the the burrs, inside and out. (5) Your nozzle needs more flare (more taper). (6 ) You need a right angle pipe fitting on the burner, to is the strain on your fuel hose, or a lngth of copper refrigenation tube between the burnr and fuel hose.

One of their round forges will give you the most bang for the last bucks. You are confusing enclosures with doors. Enclosures made of firebrick can be changed at will to form various sizes and shapes of openings. Hard brick is okay for this purpose because heat loss through a partially open brick enclosure (that must allow exhaust gas to exit anyway) is minor compared to what an un-insulated wall would make. Also understandd that the bricks and everything else about this forge can be updated at your convenience. Updated? Yes; for instance, hard firebricks are cheap but can be replaced with K26 insulated firebricks from eBay at your convenience. The ceramic wool blanket insulation can be rigidized with fumed silica and water. The blanket can then be sealed with your choice of ceramic coating. All at your convenience, although I recommend using a dust mask until you do so.

Why not? Your burner can be placed in the forge and popped right back out to fiddle with between heating cycles

You're right guys. I stand corrected. Did you also notice that the flame nozzle in the photo is quite different than the one in the video; creating a way better flame on that burner? I can't recommend the video's burner, even at that low price. But I could recommend the burner in the photo at twice its price. Do you concur, or do you think it would be worthwhile for some folks? I think I've already ordered the bad nozzle design; but will keep looking for a supplier of the better nozzle, for those who don't want to make their own. Maybe Larry Zoeller will decide they are worth figuring out and pressing.

A word of caution about this burner; it shows a very good flame for very little money, BUT this design is cropping up all over the net, like mushrooms, because it is a simple design to build for sale. Do not expect this flame to come out of all of them, because it does not Above is a very similar burner with a weak flam. Below is a nearly identical burner with a great flame Look at each burner up close to find the reason for the difference; it's in their flame nozzles,.

Larry Zoeller's "Z" burner is dependable, hot running, and low priced; it's been around for years, and you can see it with a flame photo. I do not recomend buying any burner without seeing its flame. I have seen burners that can't even make neutral flames described by their sellers in glowing terms; no, I don't think they're crooks; just deluded (well, I think at least one of them is a crook!) \http://zoellerforge.com/forgeparts.html

Superb flames. Actually, there is way more heat than you will need once the forge ends are installed. You will end up running your burners with about one-third of that pressure, most of the time. Please try moving the angle of your burners closer to vertical before committing to a position. Your flames should impinge on the right-hand side of your floor.

You have now achieved a hard neutral flame, with what sane people would consider an acceptable amount of secondary flame; I don't. It is now time for you to decide what path to take. I'm willing to go on coaching you all the way to a perfect flame, however long that takes. Or you can get on with building your forge...with or without my help, as you please. The next step toward a perfect flame will be to enlarge your mixing tube about .020", and try another flame photo.

Yes, I know; it is hard for me to accept air holes, but"if it's dumb, but works, it ain't dumb." Larry Z told me that he has been playing around with those radically tapered flame nozzles himself. I ordered one of them so that I can figure out where they belong in the theme of things. Watching Blacksmith450's burners, it seems plain to me that there is more to be learned (even though he has chosen stepped flame nozzles in the end). I don't think their low prices will continue very much longer

Glenn, Please delete my nickname from this thread; you could leave that area blank, or replace it with something like IFI et al. It is time for the innovative forge designers, to feel encouraged to post them here; they need to feel this is their thread, because it is

Glenn, Please delete my nickname from this thread; you could leave that area blank, or replace it with something like IFI et al. It is time for the inventors of new burners to feel encouraged to post them here; also the fans of other burners, old and new

BTW, that cowling presents an entirely new direction in forge construction; congratulations.

Thank you for posting this on this thread, Glenn. It is a very important example of how far people can go with their own designs.