Mikey98118

All very good points, Buzzkill and Thomas. This leads to your first bad news. I am a fan of coffee-can and two brick forges; these tiny models push the envelope; that has always appealed to my inner maniac. Five gallon bucket forges were probably made popular, when Larry Zoller Forge did a tutorial on how to build them, But common sense stops at three gallon forges made from an empty Freon or or helium non-refillable bottle, or a half-muffler oval forge. All three containers can be acquired free, with a little work. It will cost you more to make your five gallon paint can forge, as to build one of the recommended mini-forges. But the mini-forges are all made with blade smithing in mind, after you go through the trouble and expense to build it, that will make all the difference.

You have no more or less control, between fan-blown and naturally aspirated burners. Fan-blown is usually easier to build, and tune right, in the forced place. Naturally aspirated burners are easier to change output levels on. Either kind of burner takes time to understand, and understanding your burner is the key to tuning it; not what kind of burner you are learning about. All of this is beside the point for you, because you want to build a very small forge. Yes, it is possible to build a very small fan-built burner to mount in it, but why would anyone go to the bother? The ideal burner for a one gallon size forge would a a 3/8" linear burner; the easiest burner for you to build, at this time, is a 1/2" "T" burner; it can be turned down low enough to work in your forge.

Your burner is presently running with a reducing flame, BUT is very close to right. At this point you could mount it in a forge, and successfully kid yourself that you are happy with it. The forge will probably even reach welding heat. Or you can keep on refining it, until it is running completely right; you will be able to feel when that happens, because of the happy grin plastered all over your mug There isn't any right/wrong decision here; just which way you want to go. After all, nothing prevents you from taking it back out of the forge, and fiddling with it from time to time.

I'm sorry you feel that way, since they are a good forge. However, that is your right, and sorry or not, I understand it.

Faked up photos? Yes, but they are of no concern. Some importers of butane-air (blue flame) hand torches will re-color their secondary flames, so that it matches the blue of the primary flame, making the torch look reminiscent of a junior light saber, which doesn't prevent you from, using the photos to learn from; just don't get all exited and buy their junk.

Three set screws allow you to force axial alignment, and to keep the two parts aligned, even if you chose to weld or braze these parts together, the screws will keep it aligned during welding; which otherwise will be likely to warp the parts out of alignment through contraction. The exception to the rule is an interference fit, which doesn't allow the parts to move from contraction. File the screw ends smooth, to keep them from scratching part surfaces; gouges on part surfaces cause a lot of trouble. When you look down through the end of the reducer's large opening, you don't want to see an internal ridge; so if you see one, bevel the part, to provide better flow dynamics. Since you have access to a lathe, it would be a good idea to replace that external bevel on the reducer's large opening with an internal bevel, for better air flow. BTW, good looking burner, thus far.

Mr. Racist has backed off, and taken down his words, and is merely blustering to hide the getting shut downf. Anyone who still wants to buy a Diamondback forge, should do it quick, before he goes off the deep end again...

The smallest amount of zircopax you can buy, and one- half pound of benotinte clay will be more than enough.

A half inch hole for what? A half inch pipe burner size has about a 5/8" inside diameter in its mixing tube. Look up schedule #40 pipe sizes on an online chart.

Ups! The comments on the "burner of many feathers" are for you. the comments on the the very hot part is for Blacksmith-450.

to begin with, everything that everyone had to say was dead-on good advice. But what you seem to be asking for is how to buy as much progress for as little coin in a highly useful first forge as you can get; and the answer would be a Devil forge from eBay. These forges are not completely turn-key, which is a boon, for it allows you to do the finish work with the newest materials out there. Follow Frosty's advise and become familiar with them buy reading all about them in the Forges 101 thread on this forum. Don't choose just any Devil forge; choose one of their oval forges. Do not choose one of Devil's box forges; they want too much money for them. Save lots of money, and gain a first forge that will make you grin from ear to ear, and never end up collecting dust in a corner!

The best way to become savvy enough to tune an air-fuel burner, or is to look at as many flame [hphotos as you can, and study them until you understand what you are seeing Start by discounting any sales ad for a burner that doesn't include a picture of its flame in action. It is becoming commonplace for burners to be shown running, in order to produce some proof that their burners are worth buying. dare anyone claiming to have a good burner to "show you the beef." Either they will change the oversight, or they really have nothing worth showing. Nearly all butane blue flame lighters, and air-fuel torches have perfect flames. Ignore their needle flame shape, which is due to a much lower fuel pressure than propane torches. Concentrate on the total fuel combustion in a primary flame envelope, and on their shade of blue; never blue-green, which means a reducing flame; and never dark blue, which means an oxidizing flame; they are always a light to medium blue, which is in the ballpark of neutral flames. You will find faked up photographs of imported blue flame torches, but they shortly become easy to identify as the frauds they are. Finally note their lack of secondary flames throughout half of their pressure range, and very small secondary flames, even when turned up to wide open.

The best way to become savvy enough to tune an air-fuel burner, or an oxy-fuel torch is to look at as many flames as you can, and study them until you understand what you are seeing Start by discounting any sales ad for a burner that doesn't include a picture of its flame in action. It is becoming commonplace for burners to be shown running, in order to produce some proof that their burners are worth buying. Call anyone claiming to have a good burner to "show you the beef." Either they will change the oversight, or they really have nothing worth showing. Nearly all butane blue flame lighters, and air-fuel torches have perfect flames. Ignore their needle flame shape, which is due to a much lower fuel pressure than propane torches. Concentrate on the total fuel combustion in a primary flame envelope, and on their shade of blue; never blue-green, which means a reducing flame; and never dark blue, which means an oxidizing flame; they are always a light to medium blue, which is in the ballpark of neutral flames. You will find faked up photographs of imported blue flame torches, but they shortly become easy to identify as the frauds they are. Finally note their lack of secondary flames throughout half of the range, and very small secondary flames, even when turned up to wide open.

A couple of the guys on IFI have gained my permission to display any part of my book on this forum, which they may care to; what is preventing them, I don't know. In the meantime, thetr is one pirated version of the book, which I run across now and then, that doesn't come with strings attached; next time I run across it, their URL will appear on this thread. That is the best I can do while the book is out of print.

As to the burner in the first photo, I would call it a "bird of many feathers" burner; I see parts from several burners in the design. Also, you did not include a flame photo, leaving us with no clear way to judge it's performance. However, the photo of a heated part is looking very good.

I can't agree with that. I have only built a dozen or so forges over the last eighteen years, and feel confident that I will dream up the perfect forge any year now ; honest

I have not encountered any of these problems. But I also never encountered cracking in high alumina kiln shelves after long storage. It occurs to me that I have simply been blessed in where I buy my materials; Seattle Pottery Supply. On the other hand, zirconium silicate based refractory over Morgan's K26 insulating firebricks are what I plan to use for forge floors from now on, anyway. I looked for something superior to high alumina kiln shelves for the last eighteen years; I think this is it.

I think you would still end up with a better forge, by finishing the one you started.

When this much time passes without an update, it usually means that the builder has run into a snag, or is disappointed in his/her result. But, we can't help you, if you won't get back to us.

I couldn't remember where I originally saw the data, but ran across it again on another site: http://www.traditionaloven.com/building/refractory/k26-ifb/convert-cu-ft-lite-brick-k26-to-pound-lb-of-lite-brick-k26.html I have also hefted my bricks, and they are very lite. SWMBO has never allowed a scale in our home, so that's the best I can do

Morgan'S 26oo F insulating brick is available in small quantities on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X2600+insulating+bricks.TRS0&_nkw=2600+insulating+bricks&_sacat=0

In the shipyards, we used water cooled torches for straightening deck and haul plate through shrinkage.

You're right. My apologies to both Square Nail and blacksmith-450 for that completely senior moment

If you can still find it, burn ointment that is based on tannic acid, works like a miracle cure.

Frosty, You didn't overlook these bricks. Morgan has just recently come up with a completely unique 2600 insulating brick, that is only 40 pounds per cubic foot; it is at least as insulating as the 2300 insulating foam clay bricks, but is tough enough to withstand thermal cycling. Next week I will be using the zirconium silicate and a 5% binder coating on the brick, using both Veegum & and bentonite, to see how well it works as a flame coating. I expect that placing directly on one side of the brick; both materials should be synergistic in increasing thermal and mechanical strength. Yes, I've already bought the brick; it's good stuff