Mikey98118

No; cranking up the gas pressure will never induce enough air to balance out an over rich flame, because air induction and incoming gas pressure are functions of each other. Yes, raising the gas pressure will improve the air induction, but never enough to overcome a gas jet that is simply too large for the burner it is in.

It isn't only the fuel cylinder that can get too cold to work; that can also happen to your regulator. I will assume that your tank is located outside, but unless your area is suffering a blizzard, "freezing up" a 40-gallon tank is less likely than regulator problems. That said, a second tank can be run into a shop pipe system from external cylinders by use of stainless steel braided fuel hose. I would recommend two threaded male hose ends screwed into a pipe nipple. There is no need for anything fancy on the high presure end of a piping system,

That should read become eight to twelve inches.

I don't find anything wrong with the gas hose, and the forge looks reasonable; just save them, and try a "T" burner where that present burner is; that should do it.

One thing that is certain; your flame isn't getting enough air for the amount of gas. Turning the gas up or down won't change this. You need higher air intake, or a smaller gas jet.

To begin with, your photo seems to show a blue-green propane cylinder; not a yellow MAPP cylinder (actually propylene. The last MAPP plant in America and Canada was switched over to propylene production in 2008). I'm bringing this up because your forge is showing plenty of heat, considering one of its walls is wide open; so close it up properly (Forges 101 thread), and then we can get on to dealing with your real problem, which will be the torch nozzle overheating. You can read why this will happen, along with how to solve the problem in the Burners 101 thread. Also, us crusty types are trying to instruct many other people at the same time. On the brighter side, there are special attachments that allow your cartridge mounted torch to be run from regular fuel cylinders for about $20

Flame length changes in the forge why should you worry about flame impingement from a 3" flame in a much larger forge? Flame length on a high speed 3/4" gas burner should end up about 3" long at 20 PSI, when running out in the shop or in the first few minutes in a forge, BUT, after the forge heats up to yellow incandescence, the flame will pale to a blue-white glow, and lengthen up to ten to twelve inches; and that is still only the visible effects. You can still count on superheated oxygen molecules to impact surfaces further on.

Even if someone was determined to use ITC-100, I would advise them to use Metrikote or Plistex first as a toughening seal coat.

Aluminum alloys depend on tempering for most of their strength. Your forge will likely run at about 400 F heat throughout most of its shell; this will suck all the strength from it. Forge exhaust openings are often found in the 1500 F heat range. Aluminum alloys all MELT above 1200 F. Yes, you can make a beer keg forge work, but it will always be marginal.

Actually, those dimensions sound right for a seven-gallon tank; no why would I waste such a little beauty on a forge shell if it can still be employed as a fuel tank.

Yes, and for the worse. The only 1/8" part on a Reil burner is the cross pipe that carries fuel gas into the burner"s mixing tube. It is mounted across the air entrance, so that the bigger the cross pipe the more it will interfere in air induction.

Flame retention nozzles I have occasionally seen flame retention nozzles work much better than they had any right to, according to everything I "knew; and this remains so to this day. When I started playing around with burners, tapered nozzles of one in twelve (1:12) amount of increase in diameter where the best around; but they didn't have enough draw to suit everyone. Next came stepped nozzles, which had plenty of draw; too much for weaker burner designs. Meanwhile, some people were quite content with threaded reducers as flame nozzles. The latest nozzles have short tapers at their ends, and work just fine on SOME burners, and tolerably well on others; they are easily found on the Web. A version of taper nozzle halfway between the classic 1:12 taper and the "horn rim" taper can be made with the help of a Bull pin as a form. I have seen several examples of such nozzles creating excellent flames on mediocre burners. At present, the only conclusion I can reach is to let the nozzle fit the burner's mixture flow.

Rigidizers There are three kinds of "rigidizers" at present: Colloidal silica; colloidal alumina; and fine alumina powder with a binder. The first two kinds of rigidizers diffuse onto the threads, which ceramic wool is made from, by capillary attraction; but the alumina product is use rated higher than silica. The third kind acts similar to Christmas tree flocking. I don't think it is likely to do any better than watered down alumina cement, which is what I would use instead if that was the effect I was after.

there are three kinds of "rizidizers" at present: Colloidal silica; colloidal alumina; and fine alumina powder with a binder. The first two kinds of riqidizers diffuse onto the threads, which ceramic wool is made from. by capillary attraction,' but the alumina product is use rated higher than silica. The third kind acts similar to Christmas tree flocking. I don't think it is likely to do any better than watered down alumina cement, which is what I would use instead, if that was the effect I was after. Silica rigidizers made from fumed silica (eBay) and water, with a few drops of food coloring.

It is good to know yourself. Starting from your statement, the obvious choices would be between Devil and Diamondback. Devil makes quite a range of forges. It is very easy to find yourself paying full commercial forge prices on a new brand in the marketplace; unwise! One of their single burner round forges is a good way to ensure getting your money's worth, and ending up with a good size for a beginner's forge; thus saving a whole lot more money on fuel costs. This forge is not to be considered finished as is; you will need to provide hard firebricks (as a minimum) for its ends. You will also fave to rigidize, and finish coat its insulation for health. But these are mere details, some of which you would also need to for most commerceal forges. Diamondback's single burner forge--despite the manufacturer's horrendous politics--is so well made that it is also one of the few commercial forges I can recommend; it is also the right size to save a beginner a whole lot on fuel money; this forge is turn-key (although I recommend finish coating the insulation). If you have read very much on this forum, then you know how cheap and easy rigidizing and finish coating can be. Not only are small forges the least expensive to use, but they are the only forge size that goes right on being a valuable tool for people who don't decide they like blacksmithing after all; because they are the perfect size for buildings and repairing hand tools.

He didn't; there are no linear burners in that book. Linear burners are discussed at times on the Forges 101 thread, The book discusses a particular kind of burner design, in a step by step manner. For design particulars, on the type of burner he built, he needs to read through Ron Reil's forge and burner pages; they are available free on the Web.

You guys might find my book in your local library if you live near a big city; it was set up for library acceptance at the insistence of the first publisher. I never that this would amount to much, but it's worth a shot.

Or if you have a good deal on the lower rated product, You might as well go ahead, becuase by the time you need to replace the ceramics there will be better choices for low prices replacing all this stuff.

Looks like your right. But we could get a better view if you put the inside on the forges, and reated them up. That should have read "ends" not "insides."

Maybe; if the original liner is some form of ceramic fiber board than no. In that case, it can only match it for insulating value, and will not be anywhere near as tough. Colloidal silica rigidizer (fumed silica in water) can also be used as glue. The furnace cement, watered down, has been used as a toughening seal coat for the blanket, and might also work to glue the blanket onto a hard surface.

Fosty uses annealed copper refrigeration tube between his burners and the fuel hose; you might want to look into doing the same.

I agree that flame photos are quite useful for showing what is wrong with a burner's flame. But I add that they are equally useful in showing that there is nothing wrong with a burner's flame. So I repeat about his burner, the same challenge I give for any burner that is touted as wonderful; show me the beef! Since top welding heat is only around 2300 F, the forge has no need to do so; it only needs to do a good job of preserving the flame's heat and enabling a mediocre burner's secondary flame to combust the remaining fuel within the forge, rather than beyond the exhaust opening,

All good reasons.

What an interesting question, coming from you. I believe well know that a good enough forge can help a mediocre burner to produce welding temperatures. Is this true or not? As to a flame photo being unimportant for a burner that is being loudly touted as something wonderful. I have stated this several times before now about other burners. You already seem to have denied this; do you want this chance to change your mind?

Ah yes, the 'great' Alec Steel, who can brag, brag, brag louder than a carny barker; and his wonderful burner (according to him). Gee whiz Batman. ain't he great? Of course, he is...NOT. What my eyes see are burners that are too short, with flame retention nozzles that are way too large, and way undersized air entrances; these are quite unlikely to be hot burning, yet he states they are just wonderful. How odd then, that he has no photos of them running in his adds. I mean why wouldn't he want to back up his claims with pictures??? Is there something wrong with the bearded woman, and the snake lady? On the other hand that forge video is one of the best things on YouTube; it gives excellent information, with zero BS.