Mikey98118

Cheaper yes, but smarter is up to you. Your design mistakes tell me that you need to read through the Forges 101 thread. Your pattern of burners is totally wrong, and your forge is too short to allow any burner pattern to heat your forge without turning it into a flamethrower.

More air simply requires enlarging your present holes and/or increasing the induction rate of your burner (stronger nozzle and/or stronger gas stream ). The easy way to vary the gas stream is with MIG contact tips. Otherwise, drill a smaller hole.

You need to read through all the content on ribbon burners FIRST. The burner has to be the right size for the forge; too big and your forge will tend to work better as a flamethrower. But adjusting the size of your ribbon burner is not as straightforward as choosing a 1/2" linear burner over a 3/4".

too soon we get old. Too late we get smart.

missing hunks and crushed chunks are a subject I no longer want to pursue...I have too many of my own, and way too many memories of others I've seen in friends and strangers.

Burner position update For eighteen years I've recommended that burners be positioned vertically down (and at a tangent in tunnel, oval, and "D" forges); this allows the flame to impinge on high alumina kiln shelf or high alumina refractory floors, producing the most durable position in energy efficient forge designs. But circumstances alter cases. Better insulating and reflecting materials have recently become available at moderate prices. So, it is time to turn away from the vertical down position; this will eliminate overheating burners from chimney effects, which is an important safety factor. There are many other advantages to being free to choose the most efficient angle to aim your forge burners; especially in brick forges.

Agreed; lower cost is nice, but it has always been a secondary factor for me (and I'm CHEAP).

What; you mean I spent all this time being cautious around you (just because you know what you are doing) when there was such an easy way to hide my head in the sand?

It should work okay.

What an excellent attitude! Then you followed up with your personal experience; this is better than "advice from the pros." This is the best kind of input for confidence building in beginners, and that is what beginners need MOST!

The same thing has happened to me over the last three years on IFI. Considering all the cheeky guys who are coming up with excellent new burner and forge designs, it's just as well for both of us. After we had established our "Truths," it is disconcerting to have others turn over our apple carts and make us scramble madly to pick up the fruit scattered all over the pavement. I like it!

You pretty much have it. But tapping the capillary tube into a hole in the MIG tip that is the same I.D. as the tube's O.D. works equally well for small numbers of parts.

Yup, and we have several curmudgeon buddies keeping us honest

No Wayne, I think they will both do a better job, overall. ITC-IOO will maybe give five to seven percent more reflective, with zero mechanical toughness; a poor trade-off.

You were going to buy a COMMERCIAL forge, but don't think you can afford a couple of hand tools?

If you have the choice, I recommend heavy wall capillary tube (AKA gauge tubes) over thin wall hypodermic tube, if you can find them in the orifice diameters desired (as they are far less inclined to be partially dissolved by flux, should you be a little slow in your braze work). Different companies have various orifice sizes available; one of them well stock tube in .020” inside diameter, and another will stock .023” instead

As to what burner to use; there is nothing wrong with the "T" burner.

When you get your fuel cylinder problem resolved, change out your reducer intakes for 2" X 3/4" and go back the the smaller MIG tip. Then send a flame photo, so that we can see if your flame nozzles will work on this burner.

Actually, your burner is running very well, considering there is no practical flame retention nozzle. So, begin by mounting it in a forge; alternatively, build or buy a working flame retention nozzle.

Also, we have a constantly expanding choice of products, with an ever greater need to look into their details. There is no is no such thing as just soft and hard bricks anymore; and even the same use rating of bricks, like as 2600, is a poor guide to go by; you need to read and understand their technical references.

I think you have the right of things, and I am surprised that someone on the English side of the pond hasn't already posted all the essential pipe facts for forge builders in the UK.

Excellent forges can be built with little more than a couple of hand tools and a Dremel rotary tool from eBay. You are going to need a few of these tools anyway if you ever plan to build anything practical with your forge.

"I made a small production of burners and like our children, there are not 2 of them identical.It would take a lot of file work to fine-tune them all similar to one another, but I do not think that the result is worth the work." Only to perfectionists; it would make no difference in a forge.

BLacksmith 450 states "I made a small production of burners and like our children, there are not 2 of them identical. It would take a lot of file work to fine-tune them all similar to one another, but I do not think that the result is worth the work?" For all practical purposes, the answer is no. Once any of these burners are heating a forge, the major impacts of their flames are nearly universal, and the minor differences are only of interest to maniacs like me

EDE, Sorry for the slow reply. The information is on the Web, but it takes a lot of winnowing. I will gather what I have from old files, and post here.