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Found 16 results

  1. Hello all, I am new to the community and anxious to dive right into some basic metalwork. However, I need a forge first. I've played around with plenty of firepits and hair dryers before, but i'm looking to really get going with a proper forge setup. I live in the country so space and fuel type are quite flexible. My only real constraint is that I want it to be capable of forge welding low carbon steels and maybe even pure iron for when my skills hopefully reach that point. To my knowledge that requires a temperature of around 2700° F. Do you fine folks think I should build o
  2. Hi guys, I'm trying to design a layout for a blacksmith shop for industrial design students. To be honest I don't know much about blacksmithing or the machinery used.. But I have a general idea. The machinery or tools required are: metal guillotine, sand blaster, forge, grinding, metal saw, plasma cutter, MIG, TIG and spot welding. I will also need a Foundry (metal casting). I am currently doing research about the machinery and the security measurements. However any help from you guys would be welcomed, especially about the workflow in the shop or how to organize the equipments etc. P.S: I add
  3. Hi all, New to the forums and to smithing. I see a lot of good info here, so I wanted to ask the question. To build or to buy? I've seen a lot of forges online priced $350 and up, that's a big pill for a newbie like me, so I was wondering if it'd be cheaper/smarter to build. I need everything for anvils to hammers and would like to be as economical as possible. So i did some googling, found this site, bummed around Amazon and eBay, and I noticed that buying the materials plus shipping as about the same if not more than buying a pre-made forge. Now, all I looked for was sheet metal, Fi
  4. A forge I plan on building when I get home. I can make tweaks and modifications as needed. This is just a rough concept. The air supply is going to be a 442 CFM centrifuge fan with a charcoal filter(that's whats on the back of the fan itself) and it has a speed selector switch so it's adjustable. It will go from ducting into a pipe that will hopefully be able to be placed at the bottom to supply the forge with the airflow it needs. If I do run the piping down the center like that, holes will be drilled to allow the airflow to go through but I'm not sure how that would effect ho
  5. Hi all. Here is my design for my power hammer (Ron Kenyon simple air hammer with Larry Zoeller modifications) die. At the moment it is just the base but i run into a little problem/dilemma. https://cad.onshape.com/documents/e3c54a90c5026613737eea49/w/3c2b0ea84d0f4dc883b1228e/e/9e5e7e7e4e0c0513d97797a9 The problem is with the dovetail. Currently i'm using a 50mm diameter, 20mm~ height, 60 degree, dovetail cutter. However, it's angle is way more steep then the angle i see on other power hammers die and bases (ram and anvil). It is very easy to use the dovetai
  6. I just received a 2.5 pound cross pein hammer made by Collins Axe co. Only a little better than Harbor freight. There is nothing indicating it was drop forged, most likely cast steel. The cross section is one and a half inches by one and a half inches. There's a large chamfer at about a 45 degree angle that reduces the striking face to a one inch circle. I usually dress new hammers to remove sharp corners but here I would have to remove about a half inch from the face of to get a reasonable size flat working face. The head is poorly fitted with gaps between the handle and the head.
  7. So I'm sure this is gonna cause quite a stir, but please be gentle, I'm new to blacksmithing. I can't afford to buy an anvil right now, but I was able to obtain, legally, several pieces of railroad rail. As shown in the pictures I'm planning on cutting one piece in half to make two anvils as an experiment. I've read about people using a leaf spring and welding it on top for the flat and hardened surface, then throwing it in a fire to slowly heat up and then dropping in water to harden. I guess my question is, I also obtained a piece of steel they use to attach the rail to th
  8. I have just started blacksmithing. Most of my scrap metal is railroad spikes found at flea markets. Normally i trace the spike on paper then set up the curves and design to what I want to forge. I am beginning with simple blade shapes, but then want to move into longer and more distinctive blades. What I haven't researched yet is how flat should one of these blades be and how far can you draw out, some of these scrap pieces. As in my most recent plans i have 5 an ahalf to 6 inches of train spike(as steel left over after handle) can i form a 8 in blade easily? Ps iv only had about 2 ok da
  9. I have been reading Michael Porter's great book on burner and forge design. I am going to build his basic 25-gal propane cylinder forge. His basic design calls for a 1/2" burners for forge diameters up to 6", 3/4" burners up to 9" dia, and 1" up to 12" dia. For evenness of heat, would it better to use, for example, two 1/2" burners instead of one 3/4" burner?
  10. I knew from an early age that I wanted to go into a designing field, I have also really always wanted to try blacksmithing, well this is how I connected them. I set out to think of a knife design nobody has ever done before, obviously I can't patent this design and don't really want to. I want people to be able to do this! Although I do want people to see what I came up with. I don't want to "forbid them" from making a knife like this. I do not have a YouTube channel so I can't make and post a video. Mainly I just Don't want someone else getting a patent to keep people from doing this. So this
  11. Just looking for opinions, and curious if any one has noticed a change in your typical designs when you changed anvils. Now I understand that the whole point of blacksmithing is to make the material into the form we want, but I also understand that I tend to design to available tooling. Has anyone notice a extreme change in style based on changing out your main anvil? For the majority of my time working at an anvil, the anvil has been a London pattern anvil. I have had a chance to work at several styles over the years, some with out the cutting ledge, some double horns, some plain blocks
  12. I have designed the refractory lining for a forge I'd like to build - I happen to work at an industrial refractory specialist, so I can have it cast out of the finest, strongest, most heat resistant refractory material available for essentially no cost. This is the current stage of my design, and before I push it to be cast I'd like a review - criticisms, dangers, warnings, praises, whatever. I'm especially unsure about the design of the trough - does it need to be deeper, less deep, wider, and so on. This is just the refractory lining; it would be surrounded and held by a steel plate constr
  13. Hi all, I was working away on a shelf bracket a couple days ago... ...and to make life easier I make a deep (but not too deep) chisel mark to bend the right angle for the shelf bracket. I noticed that my chisel had jumped the groove ever so slightly (top left). I thought that has some potential. So, I did a test piece and purposefully jumped the groove (like they teach you to avoid, bottom left) and after the bend I got a "twizzler" looking thing at the corner. Does anyone have any pictures of past applications of this, or variations? I hoping to know some history behind this techn
  14. I am building what will be a stationary, long term forge. Here is my idea on paper and some photos of what I'm using. I would like any advise I can get.
  15. So I decided to give etching a try. The goal here was to etch a design into a plain piece of steel. The particular piece of steel was a belt-end for a costume my brother is working on. I am using Beeswax as a resist, melted onto the piece of steel; I then use a scribe to scratch in the design. For the acid I am using Muratic/Hydrochloric acid from Lowe's. (I think it says something around ~30% concentration) For the first test, I tried the acid diluted, about as much water added as acid. After an hour, nothing appeared to be happening, so I added some Hydrogen peroxide (the diluted stuff
  16. Hello again. I was wondering if anyone here can tell me a short history of the side draft (not blast) forge design (for curiosity more than anything). I have been looking all over to see if I could find the earliest instance of this sort of forge, with little luck. I thought a good place to start my search is the medieval (I know, very vague term) era, but it seems to me that most medieval forges have full hoods of masonry. I cannot find a date for the beginning of the use of side draft forges. Any help? Thanks!
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