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Found 14 results

  1. Hi all, New to the forums and to smithing. I see a lot of good info here, so I wanted to ask the question. To build or to buy? I've seen a lot of forges online priced $350 and up, that's a big pill for a newbie like me, so I was wondering if it'd be cheaper/smarter to build. I need everything for anvils to hammers and would like to be as economical as possible. So i did some googling, found this site, bummed around Amazon and eBay, and I noticed that buying the materials plus shipping as about the same if not more than buying a pre-made forge. Now, all I looked for was sheet metal, Fire brick (3k degree), KaoWool, and rigidizer. No itc-100, and I figure I can make some Sodium Silicate Glue. The big questions I have are: Can the Perlite-n-Playsand DIY bricks hold up to the heat as well as the Factory made? Is there a DIY KaoWool equivalent? Is the ITC necessary on the forge walls/Ceiling? I have a supply/warehouse within 15 miles of home so sheet metal and Stock shouldn't be an issue. I have drafted a forge design from some pics I have seen around, I also have several tanks around the house (Propane, air tanks, Grills) that I could chop up If my design isn't feasible, seeing as I built it around what I found on eBay for what looked like cheaper than average prices.The bricks I found are keyed so one would need cut in half to square the ends for the forge floor. The inner cavity of my design seems to come out to: 9.5"W x 3"H x 17"L Pics ahoy and thanks for the help in advance! Cut Key Brick Layout.bmp
  2. A forge I plan on building when I get home. I can make tweaks and modifications as needed. This is just a rough concept. The air supply is going to be a 442 CFM centrifuge fan with a charcoal filter(that's whats on the back of the fan itself) and it has a speed selector switch so it's adjustable. It will go from ducting into a pipe that will hopefully be able to be placed at the bottom to supply the forge with the airflow it needs. If I do run the piping down the center like that, holes will be drilled to allow the airflow to go through but I'm not sure how that would effect how it's displaced through the forge itself, or how long the length of the pipe leading to it would effect it as well. I.e. whether or not it would be getting sufficient air supply. The inside is lined with firebrick(the brown-yellow inside), I'm just not sure what to build the outside or base from for it to be the best or what would be the best for it. Any suggestions?
  3. Hi all. Here is my design for my power hammer (Ron Kenyon simple air hammer with Larry Zoeller modifications) die. At the moment it is just the base but i run into a little problem/dilemma. https://cad.onshape.com/documents/e3c54a90c5026613737eea49/w/3c2b0ea84d0f4dc883b1228e/e/9e5e7e7e4e0c0513d97797a9 The problem is with the dovetail. Currently i'm using a 50mm diameter, 20mm~ height, 60 degree, dovetail cutter. However, it's angle is way more steep then the angle i see on other power hammers die and bases (ram and anvil). It is very easy to use the dovetail i got since i only have to use one tool to do it and it is pretty fair and simple. However, i'm not sure that it is the right thing to do. How can i cut the base and die dovetail? i do not see any specific tool to do it. The die itself is relatively easy and in the "worst" case i can do it in two parts, one for the dovetail and other for the head itself with the die design. But the base is hard. I can tilt the head of the mill to cut an angle but i will have residual marking and grooves on the base of the dovetail, which i think is not very good. Any idea? Thanks, Mike
  4. I just received a 2.5 pound cross pein hammer made by Collins Axe co. Only a little better than Harbor freight. There is nothing indicating it was drop forged, most likely cast steel. The cross section is one and a half inches by one and a half inches. There's a large chamfer at about a 45 degree angle that reduces the striking face to a one inch circle. I usually dress new hammers to remove sharp corners but here I would have to remove about a half inch from the face of to get a reasonable size flat working face. The head is poorly fitted with gaps between the handle and the head. On the positive side the handle is hickory . Don't buy this hammer if anything else is available.
  5. So I'm sure this is gonna cause quite a stir, but please be gentle, I'm new to blacksmithing. I can't afford to buy an anvil right now, but I was able to obtain, legally, several pieces of railroad rail. As shown in the pictures I'm planning on cutting one piece in half to make two anvils as an experiment. I've read about people using a leaf spring and welding it on top for the flat and hardened surface, then throwing it in a fire to slowly heat up and then dropping in water to harden. I guess my question is, I also obtained a piece of steel they use to attach the rail to the tie. It has square holes already in it, and it the length of my anvil from the horn to the end of the face. Can I use this in place of the leaf spring? Later on I plan on cutting another piece in half and welding the two pieces together to form a wider anvil, with a piece of hardened steal welded on top. I forgot to mention I plan on using one of the square holes hanging off the back side of the anvil as a hardy hole. That way I don't have to drill any holes into the rail itself.
  6. I have just started blacksmithing. Most of my scrap metal is railroad spikes found at flea markets. Normally i trace the spike on paper then set up the curves and design to what I want to forge. I am beginning with simple blade shapes, but then want to move into longer and more distinctive blades. What I haven't researched yet is how flat should one of these blades be and how far can you draw out, some of these scrap pieces. As in my most recent plans i have 5 an ahalf to 6 inches of train spike(as steel left over after handle) can i form a 8 in blade easily? Ps iv only had about 2 ok days of forging , still adjusting my forge and work space.
  7. I have been reading Michael Porter's great book on burner and forge design. I am going to build his basic 25-gal propane cylinder forge. His basic design calls for a 1/2" burners for forge diameters up to 6", 3/4" burners up to 9" dia, and 1" up to 12" dia. For evenness of heat, would it better to use, for example, two 1/2" burners instead of one 3/4" burner?
  8. I knew from an early age that I wanted to go into a designing field, I have also really always wanted to try blacksmithing, well this is how I connected them. I set out to think of a knife design nobody has ever done before, obviously I can't patent this design and don't really want to. I want people to be able to do this! Although I do want people to see what I came up with. I don't want to "forbid them" from making a knife like this. I do not have a YouTube channel so I can't make and post a video. Mainly I just Don't want someone else getting a patent to keep people from doing this. So this is what I came up with: start with a railroad spike, first I will draw out the blade, it will probably be pretty average looking. Flatten out the head of the spike. Then I will start evenly drawing out the handle until it gets to be about a 1/4" in diameter (At this point it should be pretty long). From there I'll bend it at 5" - 5 1/2" up the handle and curl it back towards it's self and start wrapping the handle about 3/4" - 1" in diameter all the way to the blade. That should form a nice grippy handle. Then if there's metal left I will wrap a gaurs around the start of the blade (to protect the hand from slipping). If there is still metal left I will bend it around over top of the Knuckles. How much metal is left will entirely depend on how well I can it out. I am posting this for three reasons. One, as an instructional article for something I think is really great. Two, so I can get the credit for what I deserve as (as far as I know) I'm The First person to come up with this. Lastly, I want your opinions on this extremely exotic handle. Thank you, Brian. Ps. I am not an artist but that's what I'm going for.
  9. Just looking for opinions, and curious if any one has noticed a change in your typical designs when you changed anvils. Now I understand that the whole point of blacksmithing is to make the material into the form we want, but I also understand that I tend to design to available tooling. Has anyone notice a extreme change in style based on changing out your main anvil? For the majority of my time working at an anvil, the anvil has been a London pattern anvil. I have had a chance to work at several styles over the years, some with out the cutting ledge, some double horns, some plain blocks, and smaller stake anvils. I know that I introduce elements more frequently that are easier to do on a double horn, than I would if I had to go to a secondary tool like dropping in a hardy on a London to do the same operation. I don't know if anyone outside of me notices, but I am curious if I am alone in this, or if if its something others have noticed. If so, Is this one of the factors that give regional differences in styles. ie East coast vs west coast.... or French vs English.... Just curious. Matt
  10. I have designed the refractory lining for a forge I'd like to build - I happen to work at an industrial refractory specialist, so I can have it cast out of the finest, strongest, most heat resistant refractory material available for essentially no cost. This is the current stage of my design, and before I push it to be cast I'd like a review - criticisms, dangers, warnings, praises, whatever. I'm especially unsure about the design of the trough - does it need to be deeper, less deep, wider, and so on. This is just the refractory lining; it would be surrounded and held by a steel plate construction. I'm building a box bellows to go along with it. All dimensions are in inches. refractory.pdf
  11. Hi all, I was working away on a shelf bracket a couple days ago... ...and to make life easier I make a deep (but not too deep) chisel mark to bend the right angle for the shelf bracket. I noticed that my chisel had jumped the groove ever so slightly (top left). I thought that has some potential. So, I did a test piece and purposefully jumped the groove (like they teach you to avoid, bottom left) and after the bend I got a "twizzler" looking thing at the corner. Does anyone have any pictures of past applications of this, or variations? I hoping to know some history behind this technique, if it has a name and how it has been used in the past. Was it that this is one of those ideas that works fine in mild steel and might be disastrous in wrought iron (due to grain) Like twisting, Its super simple to do, but gives some neat results, and has lots of potential for variation. Thanks Matt Jenkins www.cloverdaleforge.com
  12. I am building what will be a stationary, long term forge. Here is my idea on paper and some photos of what I'm using. I would like any advise I can get.
  13. So I decided to give etching a try. The goal here was to etch a design into a plain piece of steel. The particular piece of steel was a belt-end for a costume my brother is working on. I am using Beeswax as a resist, melted onto the piece of steel; I then use a scribe to scratch in the design. For the acid I am using Muratic/Hydrochloric acid from Lowe's. (I think it says something around ~30% concentration) For the first test, I tried the acid diluted, about as much water added as acid. After an hour, nothing appeared to be happening, so I added some Hydrogen peroxide (the diluted stuff in the brown bottle). After about another hour, we removed it from the acid, rinsed it off, and removed the beeswax; the design was visible, but was so shallow it could easily be sanded off. For the second test, we tried to let the acid be more concentrated, and let it set overnight. In the morning, after several dreams in which strong acids and their corrosive effects figured strongly, I rushed outside to check the progress. I could not really tell much of a difference from the night before. Dissapointed, I let it set out for a couple hours. A few hours later I came back to do the third test. The lines were all rusted. Some of the wax had flaked off when I sprayed it with the hose to get the acid off, so I took it back to my toaster oven and let the wax re-melt and flow. Then I re-scratched the lines, being sure to actually scratch the steel itself, so I knew the lines were there. For this test, I only used enough water to cover the piece, then added more acid than there was water. I then added peroxide, since that seemed to help before. I had also read that adding table salt (NaCl) to such a mix could speed the process, so I added that until it stopped dissolving. After four hours in this bath, on a warm day in a black plastic container in full sunlight, this is what I got: After some cleanup with fine sandpaper: Now, I am not totally dissatisfied with the result, but I was really looking for a deeper effect, such as can be seen about 2/3 of the way through this video: http://www.wetanz.com/assets/videos/swords/LOTRSwordVideo.mov So I've been thinking about what I could do differently to get a deeper effect. Obviously I could try to leave it in longer next time, but one of the resources I read indicated that an etching should never be left in longer than four hours. I also considered that maybe for the particular steel I'm using, a different acid would work better, perhaps Nitric Acid as in the video above, or Ferric Chloride as gets used for etching circuit boards. So, does anyone have any thoughts on how to get a deeper etching?
  14. Hello again. I was wondering if anyone here can tell me a short history of the side draft (not blast) forge design (for curiosity more than anything). I have been looking all over to see if I could find the earliest instance of this sort of forge, with little luck. I thought a good place to start my search is the medieval (I know, very vague term) era, but it seems to me that most medieval forges have full hoods of masonry. I cannot find a date for the beginning of the use of side draft forges. Any help? Thanks!