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About Binesman

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    greeley colorado

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  1. By all means use what you got while you wait on what you ordered. the bricks you show will eventualy crumble to dust a few things you can do to extend there life while waiting on the new bricks and using these. Purchase a furnace cement. Imperial is the brand you can get at most big box retailers. It's bout 5 a pint. you will need at least two pints. Be sure you get the black paste and not the mortar mix. spread it on and let it dry. It's crap as a kiln wash but it works as a bonding agent for about 10 hours of run time before it crumbles to dust.
  2. one of the best sources I have found in my area for Anvil Shaped Objects. Are water cutting companies. I just picked up a 18" long 6" diameter 4140 drop for $30.
  3. are they hard or soft? if you can dig your thumb nail they are probably okay. however at only 2k they are going to crumble to nothingness quickly morgan k26 (IFI sales them on there sales page that's new haven't been on here in a year or two) hold up better then most brands because of there mix and the 2600 rating makes them a much better choice. Also IFI has them for 7.50 so you save 15 over my estimate. the burner is the hardest part to make yourself. I recommend buying that until you understand the science. look on etsy for a 3/4" burner and make sure the seller has good reviews. If you do that you will be fine. The rest you can get a lot cheaper then buying it and "making" it realy doesn't take much.
  4. I don't mean to argue. every person and every situation is unique. All i'm saying is there are ways around any problem and the people here are happy to help you find those ways. If you want to buy then go for it. As for the diamondback forge. Yes it will work. is it what I would call a good forge? NO. heres why. Interior dimensions are 13 1/2" L x 7 1/8" W x 3 1/2" H that means 336 cubic inches. A single 3/4" burner can get that to forge welding temp if everything is built properly. now because of the length I understanding using 2 burners. However if "I were the one making it" I would either make it 18 inches so you get better affect from having two burners or cut it down to 10 inche's and a single burner to save on cost/retail And as to firebricks falling apart it isnt an issue if you use kastolite and matrikote and proper maintenance. The forge on the bottom has seen about 60 hours of run time
  5. You don't need a welder. There are plenty of easy designs that don't need any welding. You don't need to buy from a lot of websites a good bit of it you can pick up localy. I can understand this reasoning. Well my honest 2cents is there is not a production forge that i'm aware of under the 500 dollar range that I think is worth it. Most of them come with unridgidized blanket and enough refractory to put a baby paste thin coating on. Or they come with 2 or 3 burners for a forge that should only need 1 to weld. Then I have to ask why? is it to waste fuel or is it because they need that much heat to hit welding temp.
  6. best way to go is to build the forge yourself and buy the burner. For the forge body just use K26 firebrick. 6 stacked will give you a 4.5x4x9 chamber. you can order these from the internet for 10 or so each cut a hole and stick in a 3/4" burner. you can buy one with good reviews for the 50 range. then pick up a decent 0-20psi regulator for around 20 and you got a forge that is able to forge weld. just don't get flux on the bricks they will melt like the wicked witch.
  7. You are in the right place. I can walk you through building a forge through messaging and photo's alone. Frosty and Mikey can help you get any burner fine tuned. All through message board here. I know that because my first forge was a disaster and the people here at IFI walked me through building something right. If you do go commercial pay close attention to what material it is built from because there may be a lot of materials you have to source to make it safe. Also pay attention to what you itend to use it for and try and get a forge that is more suited to your forging.
  8. my plan is to start a youtube channel. It may not have many video's but there will be one going over the different types of forge builds wool/brick/refractory and any combination there of. Along with general safety concerns. I will probably preach a little about blanket and ridgidizer because that's kind of a personal kick. but yes I already and will continue to direct people here. IFI is probably the greatest resource I have found to date.
  9. that size of forge with a single burner look in to the 1" TREX It's the only production burner I can think of for something that big. (I'm sure there's thousands of others but)
  10. diamondback is good as long as you care for it. However that is true of any good tool. I am curious however why building is not an option? Also have you considered just ordering some soft firebrick and a kiln wash?
  11. hobby. I find as I look at todays forges. I can't get one for under 500 or so that I would call "quality". So I figure I can keep the supplies for a "kit" in my garage box it up and ship it out on my way to work. That's why they aren't built forges as well. Okay the fact that I think everyone should build there own forge so they have an idea of how to maintain it is also part of the "kit" reasoning.
  12. You are on the nose Thomas. I'm looking in to setting up a forge kit business. Was looking for advice on my pricing. Did not want to mention to much in to it because I'm not trying to push for sales im looking for opinions and advice from respected peers.
  13. Trying to get away from kaowool. Cant see it being to long before its banned here like in EU. Construction is 4/6/8 k28 firebricks bonded together using a 3k furnace cement. Chamber will be matrikote coated (a pint goes with each kit so enough for some repairs as well.) the shell will be removable to change bricks out and make repairs as they become necessary. It will be 2 U shaped 20gauge pieces of sheet metal that will slide together to create the shell. Held in place by a piece of angle iron running all 4 edges tightened on both x and y access. Na 1/2" 2x2x9 and a 3/4" on the two larger forges. 0-20 psi regulator and 4 ft hose included. Standard brick size 4.5x2.5x9
  14. I don't want to say to much without first speaking with the admin of the site. However I'd like to hear from you guys if you think these prices are fair. 2x2x9 chamber for 175 4x4x9 chamber for 225 and a 8x4x9 chamber for 250. All 3 capable of reaching forge welding, all of them come with everything needed (burner/shell/regulater) but they do need assembled (takes about an hour) Do you guys believe those are fair prices (and I know everyone here tends to build there own but think back to before you knew how to)
  15. Resin to fill ajd seal any Just 1095 15n20. I'm not worried about rust if you keep it oiled and clean at the end of the day it shouldnt be an issue. Yes full tang and since it for fish after getting the handle rough shaped I slathered it up good with resin to fill and seal any pores so smelly fish gut oil doesnt get under the scales. Then finished the handle and "scuffed" it up a bit so it wouldnt be slick.