• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Binesman

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    greeley colorado

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Resin to fill ajd seal any Just 1095 15n20. I'm not worried about rust if you keep it oiled and clean at the end of the day it shouldnt be an issue. Yes full tang and since it for fish after getting the handle rough shaped I slathered it up good with resin to fill and seal any pores so smelly fish gut oil doesnt get under the scales. Then finished the handle and "scuffed" it up a bit so it wouldnt be slick.
  2. The pattern is very light. Its for a friend who fish's daily so I yried a vinegar (24 hour) then coffee (24 hour) to etch. Its still very difficult to see the pattern. Any tips on how to darken it using food safe mats?
  3. templehound. Thankyou that was exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I understand it's all up to me in the end but I'll be honest I have no idea where to start. What you gave me is an excellent example of what you do for a certain blade type/style/size to give me ideas going forward. Thankyou to everyone else who has responded all the info has been very informative. Thomas. That's kind of my plan with making knives for friends/family. A lot of them hunt and I want to send them with knives for feedback. However I don't want to send them with a steaming pile of scale disguised as a knife.
  4. I understand the different style knives being tested differently. I was looking for answers across the board like for a chefs knife do this for a skinner this etc. the stack of paper testing is a good idea. As for hammering in to things I currently do that but with a piece of hard maple never thought about actually trying to damage the knife but it makes sense to push it to it's limits. As for breaking steel and checking for grain growth. I currently do this with fresh batch's of steel (not to a knife just a small 3" test piece) Is that good enough or should I forge out a full knife?
  5. not true it makes some great scrap for the kids to bang on.
  6. My question goes out to the people who sell there work. I have no intention of selling anything I make at the moment but I would like to give some knives to friends/family, without worrying that I'm giving them something subpar. So how do you test your knives before you sell them to make sure they are/will remain sharp and true?
  7. Binesman

    Camp knife

    1095 blade. Brass guard/pins. Cocobolo handle.
  8. 1095. First attempt at a copper 8nlay. It worked better than I had hoped for a first attempt. Taken down to 800 grit with purple heart handle. Was made for a gamer friend with cancer. His gamer tag is Bhear. The inlay is bhear in nordic runes.
  9. If you stay with this design pull out the hard brick and put in k26 bricks instead. However let me see if I understand the point of this forge. 1. It will be on for long periods to crank out a lot of product. 2. The temperature range is fairly flexible(your not doing work that needs to be at a specific temperature just in a hot enough to work state.) If those two statements are true ditch the firebrick idea all together and cast it 3" thick in kastolite30. This will yake a bit to come to heat but once there it will stay hot with substantial less fuel usage.
  10. You want to forge weld so lets start with the obvious things that need fixed to get there. 1. Current internal size 730 cubic inches. You will need two 1" burners to get this reliably to forge weld temps. Or take your 2. Hard firebrick. As stated above switch to a k26. 3. No reflective coating. Put down a layer of matrikote or plistex.
  11. I havent seen a good video but the plans on waynes site are very easy to follow for the forge. And if you read the pinned tburner instructions frosty did a great job on them and you can easily follow them to have yor burner built.
  12. A friend has copd and doesn't want the risk of ceramic blanket even if it has been properly treated and cured. So I have ordered a case of k26 bricks to build him a forge. I have 2 questions in regards to this. 1. My intention is to use a 2600f fireplace cement to hold the bricks together. Will this work okay or should I use kastolite instead? 2. The bricks are 2 1/2" in thickness. Is that enough insulation or should I double stack them?
  13. You're welcome. When it comes time to build google waynecoe artist blacksmith. He sells everything you will need at a reasonable price and has forge plans on his site to follow.
  14. One of the big issues I see with a lot of commercial forges is they do not ridgidize the kaowool. To be perfectly honest with you I believe you are far better off safety wise to build your own forge. Forges 101 will help you with most of the safety issues.
  15. How about some photos of it in the forge both running and not running. That will give a lot more info. In my experience the rythmic pulsing sound is either a flow issue (regulator/hose/tank) or to much exhaust near the air intake causing it to choke.