doc

100 watt light bulb!

Yes charge for your drawings. If they bock about it you tell them when they purchase the job the drawing price is included. This helps to keep them from going to someone else for estimates with your drawings. If you feel people may do this anyway and it's a design you'd really like to keep in house, you can copyright the drawings. With the copyright it should state something about not to be used for manufacture by others. Check the legalities on line under copyright law.

I feel the same as Basher. I think there is a real issue going on here. I have to agree that there are periodically some real TROLLS that can't help but come on here and cause problems. Like some of those who were removed last year as Steve has mentioned. But whenever the subject of this thread comes up it seems to quickly deteriorate into blaming people for just being people. The reality of it is the internet gives everyone a soapbox regardless of knowledge or experience. Some members of this board think their knowledge is of some greater value than that of others it maybe or it may not but only the receiver of that knowledge is the judge and it seems like most of the complaints come from people who don't like the way their purported knowledge is received. The worst part is it seems to inevitably become a generational thing and the young newbie takes the the brunt of the criticism. It's not generational it's human nature and we ALL are guilty of not listening at certain times. I hear constantly in these threads how the OP is wasting someones time! Did someone force you to answer the OP's question? Did the OP call you on the phone and interrupt your work day? Did the OP in anyway compel you to try and answer their question? The answer is NO THEY DID NOT. If you didn't get the response you wanted when answering a query MOVE ON! You don't owe these people anything and they don't owe you. And if your time is really that valuable why are you sitting around on the internet instead of doing something productive. Hoping to feel productive by getting what you think is a proper response from an OP is a real gamble and a waste of your own time! The real issue here is that everything you're all wishing for in an OP's behavior to be is being negatively impacted by this threads existence. Any newbie reading this who is reasonable and understands faults may feel he'll too easily fall into the wrong category and be dissed before he gets started so he /she doesn't start at all. I find this type of post to be as negative to the life of IFI as any TROLLS post maybe and if I were Glenn I would have a mind to stop postings like this as quickly as I would any other negatively based post on here. MY 2 cents

With that shade of blue someone might think it's a FORD :rolleyes:

Judson, Would like to see photos of that PW have never seen that before ! Your correct about the swedish anvils but on the HB's I think until the made the later anvils with weld in waist they were iron also. I've worked on a few of the early HB's and those were iron. Or very much seemed to be.

TOO MUCH water creates methane gas. When it builds up below your fire in the tuyer it can ignite when it reaches the level of the fire. Result POOF....BOOM..... BANG or DISTRUCTIVE BANG!

The horn of your anvil if not a " new anvil" or Fisher should be only wrought iron. There is no steel plate (high carbon) material there. So no preheat required. Use as low a carbon content as possible to try and match an equivalent to the wrought iron. What kind of anvil is it?

Here's a proper link http://www.iforgeiro...ing-a-vise-r288

This isn't a link to Peter's article but is similar and is here on IFI http://www.iforgeiron.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 Edit: Well the link doesn't seem to work even though I copied from here. So search under..... pages..... bp vise repair

This link to a Mark Aspery vid will show you how to make a square hole. The suggestions you have been given here should have been enough, but here you can see it done. You should have no excuses about making chisels or the filing that will need to be done as both would take less time than the forging, filing and tempering of a broach.

What a difference good steel can make. :D

The patent states that the movable jaw can be adjusted to maintain parallelism. setlab, is the jaw adjustable on your vise ?

Nice job! If your customer wants the look of a reproduction then welding the finial for the ball is the way to go. This is the only practical way to produce the mass on the end when using wrought iron other than drawing the whole piece down from larger stock and with iron that still would be risky. Even when forging from mild steel if making a repro the methods used should be those that were dictated by the material used during the period you'er trying to represent. Otherwise your piece becomes less of a facsimile than it already is!

The vise shown in this patent seems to differ from the one pictured in this thread. The patent states that the movable jaw can be adjusted to maintain parallelism,while the one in the thread only seems to be a quick adjust mechanism. Is there a hidden adjustment we can't see your photo?

The die stock you show doesn't' really cut threads it will partially cut but what it was meant to do was form or extrude threads in wrought iron. The physical structure of wrought iron prohibits the cutting of threads due to its longitudinal fiber make up. The fibers brake or shear off when cut on the short grain,(think wood). With this die stock moderate pressure is exerted and a pass is made along the rod to be threaded, then a second pass with increased pressure. This is repeated until one is satisfied with the depth of thread. Bars to be threaded were forged to nominal size and threaded as described and then nuts or holes were punched smaller than that size and tapped threads were created with a tapered tap until the tapped hole was large enought for the threaded rod to screw in. You shouldn't attempt to use these dies in modern steel as you will only quickly dull them because of their limited ability to cut metal.

Good article Frank !

There is a woodcut/drawing of an original one of these in one of Seymoure Lindsay's books, can't remember which one right. Anyway the original is 16th-17th century. The thread is made by brazing like an early leg vise. Or it could be made by filing and chiseling as described in Moxson's Mechanix .

Randy McDaniel's Book a "Blacksmiths Primer" best beginners book there is!!

It looks to essentially be a Clay Spencer style treadle hammer. The vertical adjustment has been modified from the original plans and apparently this smith liked working only from the sides looking at the treadle.

Having made countless nails for restoration projects ( 10 thousand for Old Fort San Juan and 5 thousand for the Lincoln Tavern) plus the thousands that go with just making repro hardware. I can tell you that the links from Jimship and Stephen are what you want to follow.

What Rich said.

Bigfoot, That maybe what Sutheners call it, but here in the Nawth it's called a steelyard :)

It is a load binder, used for tightening a chain. Also called a chain binder. post split

You have to leave a small hole in the container to allow for expansion and escape of gasses or it is like heating a can of beans on the stove without opening it........KA-----BOOMMM ! This type of damascus can easily be done in a coke or coal fire if heated slowly and evenly. Canned damascus ( powdered metal ) is done this way all the time. Patience is one of the things blacksmithing teaches us and it should be used here or the results could be disastrous.

You can get flat belt and laces from McMaster Carr.